flex track

[SteamGene]

I have several long curves coming up in the Virginia Tidewater and Piedmont construction.  I've alsways thought/been told/learned (take your choice) that the flexible rail should be on the outside of the curve.  Yesterday a friend who is excellent with track told me that I could greatly decrease the big gap caused by track curvature by alternating the location of the flexible rail before soldering the sections together. 
Comments on that?
Gene

[WoundedBear]

My flex track gets laid with the sliding rail on the inside of the curve. Atlas seems to recommend it being installed that way as well.

http://www.atlasrr.com/superflex.htm

Quote from Atlas....

"Super-Flex Track has one stationary rail and one that slides, allowing it to bend easily. When bending the Flex Track into the desired shape, you must keep in mind that the sliding rail must always be on the inside of the curve (closest to the center of your layout plan)."

Sid

[r.cprmier]

Sounds like Atlas has the right idea for the general rule.  I never thought of it that way, but it does make a lot of sense for the slider to be on the inside.

Rich

[jayl1]

My slider rail has also been on the inside.

[SteamGene]

It's been a long time since I played bridge, but let me review the bidding.
I was told that for long curves - like a helix, or a 3200 (180 degree), I should solder the sections together.  I've heard that before. 
But,
How about alternating the flexible ties back and forth by sections?
Gene

[Bojangle]

I have been studying (call that "playing with") a piece of flex track for several months. Since both rails are flexible,  it doesn't make sense to me why the sliding rail needs to be on the inside, but I usually follow the manufacturer's directions.  They should know.  
Reminds me of a joke:  1st carpenter: Why are you throwing some of those nails away?  2nd Carp: The heads are on the wrong end.  1st Carp:  You dummy, those are for the other side of the house >>>>>>>
Anyway,  how about some specific instructions  do s and don'ts. I have the special saw, and the special nippers,  a little miter box and a bunch of track nails.......and a bunch of stupid carpenter jokes.
Bo

[r.cprmier]

Bo;
The more I think of it, the more sense it makes, because the outer rail is fixed; therefore the more "stable" in terms of final setting.  It is easier to cut four inches of rail, than to try to stretch 1/4".  I know this...I am an electrician, and the same rule applies here!  Much better to toss 3 feet of #4/0 copper into the scrap heap and have nice neat quality splice/termination work left when you are done, than to try to stretch 2 inches.
I recall one job I was running when I first had become a project foreman.  There were two feeders in 4-inch conduit, one was 125 feet long, the other 160 feet long.  I planned out those runs to the nines. had my crew stretch the runs (four each couduit rn) out and measure them in conjunction to running a #12 "cheater" up the conduit each for an accurate measurement.  I still allowed for four feet each end of the run-  BTW, this was 600MCM copper!   Halfway through the pull, the boss-the big kahuna!_ walked in.  Don't you think my knees weren't knocking until those runs were pulled.  He looked at the four foot excess, smiled and walked out.  One of my very proud (and  VERY relieved) moments.

I will always plan some waste...

Rich

[Bojangle]

I was an electrician in KC for some years, and yes, I always added a few extra feet. 

The stability is a good point, I can't think of any other reason, other than just trust Atlas' recommendation.

Something else I learned over the years of working with sheets of balsa (or anything for that matter)  Always cut  the longest needed first, the little scraps will be used for other pieces.   I remember once when my brother (a carpenter) was building a house. By the time the major framework was done, there was a huge pile of scraps. All those scraps got used up for partition blocks and fillers  What was left barely filled a wheelbarrow.

(Irate carpenter):  I cut this board twice, and it's still too short >>>>

Bo

[SteamGene]

As my father-in-law used to say, "Measure twice; cut once."
Gene

[lanny]

No, no, Gene ... I distincly remember that saying (you have it backwards, I'm sure): It should be: 'measure once, cut twice'. I've proven the truth of that many,many times in my life 

lanny nicolet

[the Bach-man]

Dear Lanny,
No matter how many times I cut it, it's still too short!
Have fun!
the Bach-man

[Bojangle]

I understand that  you have to remove a tie or two to lay the flex.  Do you then just lay the loose ties under the rail, or just leave them out?  If you are using ballast, it probably doesn't matter.  If not, then the spacing might be weird.  I also assume you install the usual rail joiners then solder, right?

I've never seen them, but I think you can buy double tie pieces for fillers.

Bo

[Hunt]

I understand that  you have to remove a tie or two to lay the flex.  Do you then just lay the loose ties under the rail, or just leave them out?  If you are using ballast, it probably doesn't matter.  If not, then the spacing might be weird.  I also assume you install the usual rail joiners then solder, right?

I've never seen them, but I think you can buy double tie pieces for fillers.

Bo

A common school of thought regarding flex tracklaying --- Connect by rail joiner and solder at the joiner most, if not all, of the flex track pieces needed for the entire curve. As you lay the curve remove any interfering ties.    For appearance, lay under the track any needed ties removed before adding the ballast. A similiar method click http://www.trains.com/mrr/default.aspx?c=a&id=289



When using  DCC on a medium to large layout, I suggest power feeds to each piece of track and not soldering at the rail joiners.

[SteamGene]

Bo, I slip cut off ties under the rails to replace ones removed for curves, but I file off the faceplate first.  I find it very hard to get the rail back inside the holders. 

I may not be reading correctly, but I think my basic question still hasn't been answered.  That question is:
Has anybody tried alternating free and fixed track sides while laying a long curve using the solder technique?  That is the first section has the fixed side to the outside and the next section has it to the inside and alternating like that for the duration of the curve.

Hunt - thanks for the article.
Gene

[r.cprmier]

Gene;
Sounds to me like you would be breaking SOP and ultimately messing yourself up somewqay or another.  My thought?  Stick with a winner.

Rich