Questions about Spectrum Sound

[jonathan]

The Set Up

1.  Did some horsetrading over the weekend and got a new Spectrum Consolidation with Sound.  It came in a large black box with clear window top and clear plastic packaging.  Don't know how old it is, but the locomotive had never been out of the box (B&O #2788).

2. I am DC. The mainline is powered with an MRC Tech 4 280 pack which puts 14.5 volts on the rails at full power.

The Problem (maybe) and Questions

1. At 65-70% power, the sound and headlight come on.  At around 80% power the whistle and bell sounds in prep for movement.  At around 85% power the locomotive starts to move.  At full throttle the locomotive moves at a medium pace (compared to my other Consolidations).  Is this normal?  Seems like a lot of juice to make the loco move.  This is my first foray into the sound world, so I'm not use to applying this much throttle.  The locomotive runs smoothly, other than the slow movement to which I am unaccustomed.

2. My intention is to use this loco at shows, on our club's modular layout.  On a DCC Layout (Digitrax), will the sound loco move with the same characteristics as my non-sound Consolidation?  Hoping to double-head the loco's.  I am aware of programming speed steps, but have never done it.

3.  Will clipping the capacitors require less voltage to achieve movement?  I have clipped the capacitors on my other Connies, so I should be able to find them on this loco.

This is a little new to me, so I hope you'll forgive my ignorance with sound locos.

Follow Up Info

I have been tinkering, of course.  Discovered the drive belt was split.  Good thing I had a spare belt.  This is the second Spectrum Steamer that came with a split belt (I have six).

I'm having the usual issues with the connecting wires and getting the front tender trucks to stay down on the track.  It's getting better as I get the wires loosened and rearranged.  I'm use to that.

Regards,

Jonathan

[bobwrgt]

The sound engines do take more power than others to run. After you adjust the DCC settings you should be able to get more speed in DCC.

Bob

[richg]

The circuits for the microprocessor and sound take at least 5 volts DC to become activated. The pulses to overcome the cogging in the motor need to be around seven to eight volts and will depend on the loco motor/gearing. Some fine tuning of the motor CV's will help some.
This is a well known issue that has been discussed many times here.

Connect up your multimeter to the large filter capacitor on the decoder which is located right next to the bridge rectifier which is usually four diodes.

Rich

[jonathan]

OK.  Thanks for that, guys.

My first question, "is it normal?", has been answered.  My loco is working fine and there is no need for concern.  The multimeter gets a break.

I do have the quick start up guide, and I have previously downloaded the info provided in Hunt's links.

As to my second question:  the instructions refer to consisting locomotives that are both sound-type locos, and recommendations for running them together.  I would think a FAQ would be, "What if one loco is sound and the other is not?"  Seems I won't know that until I get both locos on the same DCC track.  Then I will find out how their speeds differ and what needs to be done.  I haven't studied the CV settings, yet, as I haven't had a need until now.  Will have to print off the directions and take them with me to the next modular display.

Thanks again.

Regards,

Jonathan

[BestSnowman]

In theory yes you should be able to speed match a sound and non-sound locomotive but it's going to probably be more difficult.

I recently ordered Bachrus speedometer (http://bachrus.com/speedometer.php) and Digitrax PR3 with the intention of speed matching my locomotives (well the ones that support speed tables). I have one sound locomotive and the rest are not so in a couple weeks I might be able to answer that better.

For CVs you might be in luck since they are both Spectrum Consolidations in that there is a higher probabililty they have the same gearing. That could mean you could set the same speed curve and then use the Forward and Reverse Trims with the Kick Start (CVs 65, 66, and 95) to get them in sync.

[jonathan]

Ahhh.... the light is starting to come on.  So every time you add a feature (DCC, Sound, etc), you change the voltage required by the locomotive for normal running.  Hence, DC runs well only with DC,  DCC locos run well with other DCC locos (same brand decoder probably helps).

I guess I need to rethink my love of double-heading locomotives.  Can't see buying another sound steamer just so I can consist locos.

Thanks, I'm learnin'

Here she is doin' her thing...


Already been kitbashing, making her more B&O like.  She even has a poling pole!
Regards,

Jonathan

[BestSnowman]

I'm making an assumption that the non-sound Consolidation is also DCC equipped. If it is do you know the what type of decoder it is?

If it's a decoder that supports speed tables, kick start, and both Forward and Reverse Trim speed matching shouldn't be too difficult*

If it's a decoder like the Bachmann non-sound decoder which is very basic and doesn't support speed tables it is still feasible but more difficult.

*Difficulty is a relative term based on the tools available and patience. My plan is to get most of my fleet operating at the same speed curve by using the speedometer I've ordered to adjust each speed step to a scale speed.

[jonathan]

My other two Connies have Bachmann decoders.  They work great together.  I have the decoders set on the same address.  Can move the decoders into my Mountains or Kanawha and double head those locos if desired.

Perhaps the most economical solution is to look for a Soundtraxx sound/motion decoder and speaker at the next train show.  Beats having to get yet another loco I don't need.

Gosh, model railroading is fun.  I'm sure I read that somewhere.

Regards,

Jonathan

PS  The picture in the previous post is not a picture... it's a video.  You click on it.  Makin' sounds

[BestSnowman]

Gosh, model railroading is fun.  I'm sure I read that somewhere.

Indeed it is By the way, welcome to the world of DCC

Can we look forward to project threads detailing the installation of decoders and speakers in your existing fleet?

[jonathan]

Baby steps, Sparks. Baby Steps. (sic)



jv

[jonathan]

Since everyone was so nice helping me with my sound education, I thought I would share the fun I'm having detailing my new Sound Connie.  It's a work in progress but here's some of the cool stuff so far:

Glamour shot:

My water column is removable.  I failed to push it down all the way for the photo. Doh!

Other side:


This is a poling pole.  Somebody needs to work on loco nomenclature.  First blow off cocks and now this...

It's just a toothpick, cut to scale 12 feet with some 0.010 wire bent into hooks. Still need to stain and/or weather the toothpick.

This is a reverse light made from a spare brass headlight I had laying around:

The lens is from Detail Associates.  If I ever get comfortable with DCC I'll add a working light by drilling a 3/32" hole up through the bottom and insert a bulb.

I raised the headlight and moved the led from the inside to the back of the headlight.  You have to cut the cylinder shaped lens in half, and glue it back into the headlight.  I paint the back of the led, and wires, black.  From 2 feet away, it gets very hard to see the wires:



The beauty of a DCC loco is it allows me to do this, even in DC:

It's darn near impossible to take a picture of a DC loco with the headlight on. Yes, I know the left steps aren't pushed into the hole in the boiler.  I really should do a quick once over before I get all camera happy.

Anyway, hope you enjoyed the pics.  Thanks again, for the education.

Regards,

Jonathan