Series Hook Up Problem---Williams Diesel

[GTBob]

Need some help here....Just converted my Williams GP-9 & FP-45 locos to series wiring.  FP-45 works great--no problems whatsoever.  The GP-9 works fine EXCEPT the horn/bell.  When activated you can barely hear the the horn/bell.  Before changing to series, the horn/bell was loud and clear.  I've checked all connections, etc., and cannot find anything wrong.  I also ran the GP-9 on the loop the FP-45 runs on---same problem, poor horn/bell sound.  The problem is connected to the GP-9, but I'm at a loss to find why......

Anybody got any ideas what could be wrong?

Thanks,

Bob

[Joe Satnik]

Dear Bob,

Unplug the sound board (2-wire) power cable from the reverser board. 

Use two solid wire telephone or cat5 strands stripped back 1/4" to connect track power to that cable.

Turn throttle up to 8 volts or so and try the horn and bell.

Let us know the results.

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik

[GTBob]

Hi Joe

Did as you suggested---same results--weak horn/bell. 

Under power, I then started moving (slightly) a large capacitor on the reverser board and the horn became loud as before.  On my GP-9 the horn board is layered (sandwiched) over the reverser board, they are only a thread away from touching each other.  I'm guessing when I was removing the white plastic motor plugs from the reverser board, (I used Member C & O's tutorial on connecting the yellow and blue wires) I accidentally knocked the reverser capacitor into a capacitor on the horn board.  The touching of the 2 parts must have caused a short(?).  Anyway, I tested the GP-9 for 20 minutes and all is good.

Joe, thanks  for your help.  FWIW--there is a very noticeable difference in series vs. parellel wiring.  Nice slow easy starting, much brighter lights, horn and bell activates faster and still plenty of high speed.

Bob

[Joe Satnik]

Dear Bob,

Glad it all worked out.  

It could be that the two caps were touching, so in that case it would help to put a piece of electrical tape between the two caps.

Another possibility, the sound board cap could have an intermittent (cold) solder joint underneath it.  In that case, touching each of the cap's leads on the foil side of the circuit board with a hot soldering pencil would probably fix it.  Careful not to bridge (short) the two leads with solder.

FWIW - Go Series    

Hope this helps.

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik