EZTrack adaptor

[Gwog]

I know this may have been covered before, but here it goes. I have a mish mash of track, and have more EZTrack than any thing. I also have some Atlas and Life Like snap track. With the way money is now I hate to not utilize all the track I can, with out having to shell out more for all the same. Is there a way to adapt these different tracks together? 

[ACY]

As long as they are all the same code (Bachmann and most others are code 100, Atlas also has code 83), all you need to do is put cork roadbed underneath the non-roadbed track to bring it to the same height, then when you ballast your track do it to match the E-Z track. If it is different codes (rail heights) then you will need transition joiners or need to make other adaptations to connect them. An adapter is made to attach flex or snap track to Power-Loc track.

[railsider]

You can make EZ track ballast (and similar sections from other manufacturers) look more realistic, and match cork-or-homasote roadbeds under Atlas, etc. track, by coating with a slightly thinned glue and sprinkling regular "sand" ballast on it, then tamping a little as it dries.

Another interesting variation on the ballast veneer idea is to use old coffee grounds, well dried and sifted to remove clumps. It won't grind gears, metal or plastic, as mineral sand will, if it gets into them. It is, however, darker than most ballasts in the real world.

railsider

[Doneldon]

Gwog-

I'd be careful with coffee grounds as such once living materials can support mold and mildew. The color doesn't bother me so much, though, because many railroads used cinders for ballast and that's almost black. Also, some coffee grind sizes are way too big for HO ballast.

You can always use your roadbed attached track together, including code 100 and code 83 with the correct rail joiners, as long as you either paint all of the roadbed to match or ballast it all to match. The same goes for cork roadbed. You are likely to see some textural differences between painted brands of roadbed and cork but it won't be nearly as obvious to visitors as it will be to you.

Depending on just how much track, brands, roadbedded or not, etc., you have you can even use non-roadbedded track. Most sidings are a little below through track height (use N-scale roadbed) and the large majority of yards and industrial tracks are laid right on the ground. Make transitions (balsa sands easily to make transitional ramps) to the lower or ground level trackage and ballast it there. This would be a great place for ballast which represents cinders. You can also use asphalt shingles for your lower or grade level tracks.
                                                                                           -- D

[railsider]

Doneldon is right about mold in organic material. That's why is said "well-dried". If you  live in a humid climate, then it could be a problem.

[Burto]

I have used a thicknesser and planer to make a timber profile to match the EZ track road bed.This is quick and curves can be cut with selected saws.You can then join flex track or straights etc no problems.Codes 100 and 83 join easily as the difference is minute.With interlocking sections of differing profiles,cut where necessary,join track and screw in place whilst small beads of silicone set.Ballast the lot and 'Bingo',noone will know.