Cheap voltage tester

[richg]

Some of you might like this if you do not understand how to use a multimeter or do not want to buy one.
Look in the auto section of Walmart or maybe a auto parts store.
It shows the same brightness with 12 volts DC power packs or my NCE Power Cab DCC system.
Less brightness, less voltage.
Many call it a Go/No Go tester. Many auto mechanics use it as they can keep it nearby and it is quite rugged.
The reason for the ice pick handle is a mechanic can probe right through the insulation of wire. This tool has been around for man years. Just understand its limitations.
I am sure some rivet counters will be horrified. "You really need a $200 meter for accurate measurements. That tool is crude".



Rich

[NarrowMinded]

that tool has its uses, but there are many "cheap" multimeters to be had for under $10 that are very easy to use.

NM

[jward]

if all you want is a simply trouble light you can build one yourself from a set of alligator clips, a bi-polor led, and a 1k ohm resistor. total cost should be around $3 or $4 and it will detect polarity as well....

[CNE Runner]

The 'lit screwdriver' technique will tell of the presence of current - but little else (although I suppose the level of illumination will indicate greater current flow). There is no substitute for a multimeter. You do not have to spend big bucks for a unit that is suitable for model railroading. Check out the $3.99 special at the Harbor Freight website:

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?category=&q=multimeter

I have used this very unit on several layouts; and can attest to its accuracy and reliability. At this price, it is probably cheaper than any other method. We purchased the more expensive multimeter on the web page for use in the motor home - but it doesn't necessarily work any better than the cheaper version.

Ray

[richg]

I have three of the Harbor Freight meters. An expensive meter, a analog meter and DCC volt meter.
The probe is very easy to carry around the layout while doing track work.
Some people do not like meters or want to read the manual.

Notice, the 1156 light bulb will draw current. I have some.
The ice pick type will draw current.
A loco sitting on the track will draw current.
If there is a bad track connection or feeder connection, the voltage in that section will be lower, the ice pick light will be dimmer as will the light bulb.
A bipolar LED with 1 k resistor will only draw around 10ma. Not a load.

I am talking trouble shooting here. Not seeing if a track is active while running trains.

Again, know its limitations. This is another tool. It is for checking track voltage, nottrack  current.
I use the meter for DC track current and the DCC amp meter for DCC track current.

Rich

[CNE Runner]

Say Rich, I hope you didn't take my comments as a criticism of your testing procedure...honestly, none was intended. My point was that, with the availability of cheap multimeters, there is little reason not to procure one.

I hope I sent the record straight.

Many regards,
Ray

[Jim Banner]

Rich,

After fifty years in electronics, I have no problem using meters and always carry one in my tool box.  I also carry a test light (old E10 Xmas tree socket with wires and alligator clips plus a #52 bulb.)  When there is trouble on the railroad, guess which one I grab first.  Hint: it isn't the meter.

Jim

[richg]

Some teenagers might want something simple. Maybe dads doing DCC for kids or Granddad doing DCC for grandchildren and do not understand test equipment.
I belong to other forums and see questions about the train not running and they think there is power to the track but do not know how to tell.
Some rivet counters would disagree. I have seen disagreements from some in a couple other forums or were just interested in starting an argument.
Having been a NASA contractor for fourteen years, Navy contractor for about the same amount of time, industrial machine technician for some years, I used the best and thought everyone should do the same. I forgot how to use the KISS principle.
A few years ago I realize simple things like this work very well at least for determining adequate track voltage. If the bulb is dimmer or out as compared to checking a 12 volt DC supply, you know there is a problem.
Just know the limitations.

An even easier tester is an automotive bulb DE3022. It looks like an old style
automotive fuse, glass tube with metal ends.  This particular one is used in autos for things like dome lights, etc. but it is just the right length to fit HO track.
Draws about 3/8 amp., so puts enough load on to find bad connections. Just don't hold it on too long, the glass bulb can get very warm.
Yes, I have advocated using a meter, even a cheap one,  but I know there are people who will not for whatever reason.

Rich