2-6-0 with sound?

[swany]

Does Bachmann build a on30 2-6-0 with factory tsunami sound?

[Tomcat]

No, they haven´t upgraded the 2-6-0 in any way. But sound can be added, it´s a bit of work, but can be done. I have done 3 sound upgrades following Harold Minkwitz´s recommendations and it worked out fine.

Cheers, Tom

[pvnrrman]

Tomcat, do you have any advice as to how to remove the motor and chassis from the shell on the 2-6-0?  I am trying to install a Tsunami Light Steam decoder in this locomotive, and if I am not mistaken, the motor has to be isolated, and orange, grey, red and black wires added as well as the headlight rewired.  I have taken it partially apart, but I cannot seem to get the motor and chassis removed from the shell.  I have two of these to do, so I believe that if I can get the first one worked out, the second one will go a little easier.  Thanks.

[Tomcat]

Best use a small flat scredriver or chisel blade which you slide between the metal chassis and the plastic body shell. There is a small lug underneath the firebox on the rear of the engines plastic body shell. You got to press here and gently pull up the body shell. Give it a help from the sides and try to keep the sand tubes intact. The body shell should come off with ease then.

You got to isolate the motor contacts to wire the decoder direct then.  Cut off the plug and wire motor and wipers direct to the decoder. Rest should work fine.

Best,make a small slot for the wires along the boiler weight or tape them to the weight.

Cheers, Tom

[pjf]

Hello Swany, I have installed a MRC DC sound module (it is no longer available) into my  Bumble Bee . The required wiring is the same as for a DCC decoder.
This is what I done. Only have to remove the small printed circit board. Scrape or make 3 brakes along each side for motor, pick up and front light. This will isolate the motor. Solder 6 wires, (color coded to match decoder) to your new contact points on the board. 4 to 5 inches will be enough to feed it out at the back under  the cab roof. Put back board  (1 screw as I remember) make sure the original contacts match the new wires.
The other end can be connected to an 8 pin socket or you can solder it to the decoder (that would be easier if you don't want to remove or change decoders in the future). For the rear light one goes to blue (common) wire and the other to yellow wire.
I did this last year but I can find my notes if you cant work out the color match.
It is easier than it sounds. I am slow typing so I use as few words as I have to.  Cheers

[PadreCraig]

See my post on "Adding Sound to a C&S Mogul"  It's really fairly easy despite what some people say.  FWIW

[Tomcat]

True! Just take your time and go ahead with care. Its nothing impossible!
I just have altered the tender of my C&S No.21 to the more accurate version plus added a Beartrap. It´s a Colorado Icon now!!! Spraypainted and slightly weathered...