Need tips on kitbashing 4-6-0

[Matt Bumgarner]

I am getting ready to bash a Spectrum 4-6-0 into a specific model and have a few questions, as this is my first attempt at working with a steam model.
Any help is appreciated:

a) Do the details such as running boards/air pumps/bell merely pull out of the shell or are they glued and need to be loosened from within the shell?

b) Any suggestions for removing the current headlight and replacing it with a different version with a visor (Precision Scale?)

c) The smaller tender from the 52" driver version looks much more appropriate to my prototype than the larger one that comes with the 63" Spectrum model. The problem is that this smaller tender is much lower than the cab floor of the higher-drivered model. Can anyone suggest a manufacturer of larger diameter metal wheelsets? I know I will need to lower the coupler for this mod, but I don't have a better idea of how to do it.

Thanks in advance!

Matt

[brad]

Matt,

   I know the domes are screwed on from inside the boiler other than that I don't know. I tugged at some of the details a bit to see if they would come off easy, but they didn't so I left them alone for repainting. As far as just changing the wheels on your tender to get the correct height, you may have to also change the trucks as larger wheels might not turn in the frames, You'll probably also have to shim the trucks from the tender floor to gain clearance.

brad.

[lanny]

Hi Matt,

I have just finished the boiler of a Spectrum 2-8-0 with major kit bashing work. I haven't done a 4-6-0, though that is on the list for later one, since the ICRR did use that wheel arrangement.

The following may or may not be applicable to your Spectrum 4-6-0, but this is what I have found in heavy kit bashing of 2 Spectrum 2-8-0s regarding your questions:

1)Most of the piping details are 'press fit' and do come loose with a 'judicious' careful amount of prying. However, these are 'built' in China and sometimes, glue is used where a press fit is all that is needed. Keep a good sharp Xacto knife handy. I've never found any screws on the 2-8-0 domes holding them in place. That may be different with the 4-6-0.

2) on the 2-8-0, in order to get the running boards free from the boiler, you must pretty much remove all the 'snap/glued on' piping. You must also remove a screw from the chassis. This will allow the boiler to slide forward and off the mechanism (2-8-0).

3) The running boards on the 2-8-0 are 'supposed' to be a snap fit, however, usually you will find that there is some glue holding them. The running boards do come completely loose as a separate part of the boiler, so once removed, you basically have only the boiler to work with.

4) There is a round clear plastic tube inserted inside the boiler with a thin, solid plastic tube also of clear plastic but painted black outside. When inserted into the boiler front, this small tube fits in the existing headlight.

I use Precision Scale Pyle headlights with a visor (#31299) and drill out the back so the tube will fit through that. If you have the time and tools, Cal Scale brass Pyle headlights with a visor will also work, but you have to drill metal instead of plastic.

Your problem may lie in 'where' the head light is positioned. If it comes on top of the boiler and you want to move it to the boiler center, you'll have to do some kit bashing to direct the light to that position.

5) Bell and whistle on the 2-8-0 are metal, not plastic. They can easily be broken when you are removing them (I have done this both times with the whistle). I don't have any good advice on how to get the metal parts 'out', but they do come out because it looks like they are press fit.

6) I haven't done the tender as yet, so can't make any suggestions. I think what Brad shared sounds like very good advice.

Here's a couple photos of a current Spectrum 2-8-0 that I am kit bashing into a true ICRR for another model railroader. This is 'early stage' kit bashing work ... just the beginning!





best wishes,

lanny nicolet