Testing Track (DCC)

[john.001]

Question: Is there a track tester that determines such things as: (1) dirty track; (2) too much resistance from bad/old track; and (3) open track. etc.?  I've learned of the "coin (quarter) test" approach, but surely there's something more - like a small handheld tester/meter (other than an Ohmmeter).

Background: I acquired a used layout. I've recently framed the layout and set up a pulley system in my garage to enjoy. This morning, after ordering and receiving a Backmann E-Z Controller Digital Command Control System (Bachmann No. 44902) I set the E-Z Controller up and the using a Bachmann connector track spliced into what appears to be Atlas type track, ran a DCC Diesel locomotive on the track. The track seems to work fine, except for the following:

a. At some points on the track, the locomotive runs in a halting fashion- like the power is less reliable at various locations around the track.
b. The locomotive stops at times on the track, even though other times, the engine runs through that same area without any problem.

In my inexperienced judgment, the problem lies with the track and not the controller or locomotive - but what do I know. Surely, there's some unit/tool/instrument that can be used to check out each section of the track to ensure full power is running through it evenly (or at all).

So, in short, is there such a unit/tool/instrument?

[jbsmith]

there is this kit here
http://www.trainsetsonly.com/page/TSO/PROD/433-1418

any one of these would help too = Clean Tracks make for much better electrical contact
http://www.trainsetsonly.com/page/TSO/CTGY/HO-CLEAN

not sure what this is but it looks interesting,,maybe someone else could tell us more

http://www.trainsetsonly.com/page/TSO/PROD/AHD-NRRAMPV1A
http://www.trainsetsonly.com/page/TSO/PROD/AHD-NRRAMPV2A

[richg]

There is no one instrument.
We use a couple John Allen track cleaner cars at our club. We also use #2000 grit paper for difficult areas which is rare . Our club has been in existence since the 1980's.
New track is not to be considered "clean" until you actually do the cleaning process.
Some use a damp lint free cloth with alcohol on it. No water, ever.
You will get a variety of suggestions for sure.
We do not use WD40 or any kind of oil or compounds that are supposed to clean track. Oils can attract dust.
There are a couple compounds that are suppose to work but have to be completely wiper free after cleaning.
Keeping track clean has to be a continual process.

Rich

[Doneldon]

john-

Tony's Train Exchange        http://www.tonystrains.com/products/pop-meters.htm   
has just what you are looking for, in three levels of sophistication. Tony's also
has a wealth of information about model railroading and especially about DCC.

                                                                      -- D

[jward]

you might have two seperate issues here.....

the dirty track you know about. that's intuitive. clean it all, every section. note where your locomtive seems to act funny and connect another set of feeder wires in that area. that should help a bit with the erratic performance that is based on track conditions.

the fact that your locomotive seems to stop at random even on clean track leads me to believe there are locomotive based issues. is it always the same locomotive that stops at random. after sitting awhile does it operate normally again? you may have a decoder overheating and shutting itself down.....alternatively, dcc requires clean connections, and you'd do well to clean the wheels and contacts on your locomotives when you clean your track.

from my experience, an volt-ohmmeter and the quarter trick are all you really need to troubleshoot dcc track power problems. as others have said, there are gadgets out there to accurately measure your dcc at the track, but i never needed them.

[Len]

Also, are the wheels on the loco clean? Odds are if the track is dirty, so are the loco wheels. Especially if they came with the layout.

RibbonRail makes a nice loco cradle, or you can make one with a shoe box and towel. Put the loco in the cradel with the wheels up, touch a couple of wires from a DC transformer to the wheels, and while they're spinning lightly hold an eraser or Brite-Boy against them.

While you're at it, make sure the loco's been properly lubed and there are no loose wire connections.

Len

[Jim Banner]

Question: Is there a track tester that determines such things as: (1) dirty track; (2) too much resistance from bad/old track; and (3) open track. etc.?

There is one packed in every train set.  People often call it an "engine" although a better term is "locomotive."  Every locomotive comes with at least one light that is track powered.  By observing this light, you can tell that your track and/or locomotive wheels are getting dirty, even before they are dirty enough to affect performance.  The light will flicker every time the wheels lose contact with the rails.  And this loss of contract is almost always from dirt on the track and/or wheels.

If the light dims as the locomotive runs across a particular section of rail, then the current to that section is being limited for some reason.  With older track, that is most often a bit of corrosion inside the rail joiners.  The easiest solution is to replace the rail joiners.  And while you have the old ones off, clean the last half inch or so of each rail so that the new ones get good contact.  If you want permanent connections, you can solder the tracks together, after cleaning the rail ends and installing new joiners.  When soldering the joints, watch closely to make sure the solder actually penetrates into the area between the joiners and the rails.  Trying to solder dirty old joints invariably results in the solder sitting on top of the joiners without improving electrical contact in any permanent way.

If you don't like soldering or if you feel you might reconfigure the tracks someday, you might want to use a tiny bit of Silicone Grease inside every joiner.  Silicone grease is available from auto parts stores and in addition to greasing the insides of spark plug boots, is also used to protect the contacts inside plugs and sockets.  It keeps those contacts clean by excluding water, salt, oxygen and ozone, to mention a few things.  And it will do the same for the joiners on your rails.

If your railroad does not lend itself to being taken apart to clean the rail ends, then the only solution is to add additional feeders to the bad sections.  This can be frustrating.  It always seems that as soon as you get all the bad sections working properly, some other sections will go bad and have to be fixed.  The good news is that if you stick with it long enough, all of the sections will have their own feeders and there won't be any more sections to go bad.

If a particular section of track is completely dead, the light will go out indicating that connections to that section of track are so bad that no electricity can get through.

Bottom line:  Track does get old and track does get dirty.  Dirty is curable.  Rail does not go bad; only the joiners do.  Joiners are replaceable and much cheaper than new track.

Jim