Turnout troubles

[daxdog]

I went to the hobby shop at lunch today (big mistake because I spent too much and took too long).  Part of my purchases were EZ track left and right remote turnout.  Another purchase was an awesome Broadway Limited NW2 switcher.  As I am playing with my new track and engine, I discovered that the left-turnout when selected toward the turnout causes the switcher to often derail, especially when in reverse with a load but can happen going forward as well.  I then tested it with my Bachmann GT40 engine with no problems.  However, the right-turnout when selected toward the turnout causes the GT40 to often derail but never the switcher.  Why would each of these engines have problems with separate turnouts?  I am using the track on a kitchen countertop because I have not yet built my permanent layout.

[daxdog]

I pulled out my other engines to see what happens with them.  My Bachmann 4-8-4 derails going forward on the right turnout just like my Bachmann GT40.  My ancient Athearn FT-A derails going forward on the right turnout but not in reverse.  Neither derailed on the left turnout.  I did not test the 4-8-4 in reverse.  It is picky about its curves to begin with.

Is there a way to adjust the turnouts or the engines to make them work better?  I don't want to just have a boring loop with no turnouts.  In fact, I bought the switcher just because I want a big yard to push around cars.

[jward]

those 18" radius switches are just asking for trouble, especially when backing a train through them. use of the numbered switches such as the #5 or #6 will eliminate these problems. particularly when used in yards or with larger locomotives.

that said, where exactly does each locomotive derail? at the points (the moveable parts) where the points are hinged? or the frog (where the rails cross?)......

probably the best thing you can do at this point is to buy an nmra standards guage and checque all those areas to see that the rails are properly spaced, as well as the wheels on your locomotives. you may also need to file a bevel on the top and end of the points, possibly file the end of the rail at the hinge as well. you should not feel a bump when running your finger along the rails at these spots.

[ACY]

Like jward said see if #6 turnouts fix the problem, the 18" radius ones are too sharp.

[daxdog]

They are derailing at the points. What is the best procedure for filing?  Is there a way to disassemble or should I do it while it is together?  What should I use to file?  Sorry for all the newbie questions.

[daxdog]

Being the impatient person that I can be decided to try filing down the point. I got my Dremel tool out and lightly sanded the point to make the transition smoother. Tah-dah!  It worked. Now all my engines go through the turnout flawlessly.

[OldTimer]

Good for you!!!!      Fixin' stuff is the best!!!

[jward]

if you can do that fine work with a dremel, you should be a surgeon. you definitely have a steadier hand than i do.

i usually file the points with a jewelers file, the points are blocked open with a match stick or something of similar size placed between the stock (outer) rail and the point.

it has been my experience that most switchpoints are not sharp enough out of the box. it is one reason i now build my own switches by hand.

[Hellhound]

I have had nothing but problems with EZ track turnouts. I have removed them all from the layout for that reason. Atlas turnouts won't fit EZ track roadbed since the turnout radius is different so that is not an option. Atlas turnouts have a recess in the rail that the point fits into which gives a very smooth transition. The point doesn't catch a wheel and cause a derailment. Will probably go to Atlas or Kato track on the next layout. Don't like to file a turnout that should work right out of the box. My eyes aren't as good as they used to be for that kind of work.