replace plastic wheels on ho cars

[jk777]

hi,
i am in the process of replacing the plastic wheels on my ho train cars, i was told at a train show that micro mark has a tool that is used to ream the pointed axel hole out to remove burrs ect. do you know about this tool and what it is called, please help.

[SteamGene]

I call it a truck reamer.  Reboxx sells them, too.  Since you are going from plastic to metal, it's a good idea to ream the trucks as well.
Gene

[bevernie]

Please tell me, since I am on a limited budget, is it really that necessary to change from plastic to metal? What are the proes and cons?
                                                                                                  THANX!!
                                                                                                    Ernie
                                                                                         Hendersonville, NC

[lanny]

To add a little to Gene's good advice:

Micro Mark 'Truck tuner' seems to me, to be a bit longer than the Reboxx 'tool'. I have one of each because, depending on the particular brand delrin/plastic truck, one of the two will work better. The will cost you around $10.00 a piece and are well worth having both of them.

Experts on the forum have a variety of 'favorite' metal wheel, axel sets so I am only suggesting what I personally like, not 'what is best'.

My layout is code #100 DC/Analog power and has a couple brutally steep (2.7 - 3.3% grades), so I need very free rolling freight and passenger cars.

Besides 'reaming' every truck before it touches my layout, I also add either 33" or 36" Intermountain metal wheel/axels that are called 'semi scale' (depending on the kind of car and its age, etc.). This combination increases the rolling distance of any given piece of rolling stock I use on my layout by 300% (i.e., the car will roll three times as far as before) as well as significantly increasing the number of cars on locomotive can haul up my brutal grades without double heading power.

I 'think' that Intermountain has three basic 'widths' of wheels. Standard which have the widest tread, 'semi-scale' which are narrower (I use these), and full scale width. Perhaps others can give clearer information on this.

I might add that there are other good metal wheel axle sets made by different companies, so you may find some that you like better than Intermountain.

lanny nicolet

[lanny]

Hi Ernie,

Here's my personal thoughts on your question. I don't think anyone 'has' to do anything like this if they don't want to, and you are right, it is a 'hit' in the budget. I get my Intermountain wheel sets through my LHS in boxes of 100 (enough for 25 cars) at $55.00 per 100, so that can add up pretty fast.

If you are satisfied with the way your cars 'roll', and your track work is well laid without really steep curves, and you are satisfied with consists that aren't 20-30 cars long, AND you regularly clean both your track and your car wheels with alcohol, I would think you could get along fine.

For me, because my track work is not 'perfect' and because I sometimes like to see 30+ car coal drags running on my layout, I find the extra expense has been worth it. Being retired and on a fixed income, does inhibit the number of pieces of rolling stock I use, however 

lanny nicolet

[SteamGene]

Ernie,
Waht Lannie says is correct.  Metal wheels add weight down low, where it's needed and, for some reason, don't collect dirt as easily as plastic.  They also actually go "clickety-clack"!  They help with long trains, especially on layouts with tight turns and steep grades.  But they aren't a necessity. 
Gene

[Bojangle]

Color me "cheapskate", but I don't like buying tools I can make.  This is my crude method of saving money.

I understand the angle of the bearing is 60 degree.  When I saw the pic of the Reboxx reamer, I started checking my tool box.  I have a lot of phillips screwdrivers in all sizes, not quite the same angle, but a light grinding with a dremel fixes that.  I cut off the tip the right length, then ground the cutoff end to a smooth 60 degree cone and slipped on a piece of aircraft tubing for a grip.  I think the term "reamer" is not correct, as I don't want to actually take off material, just smooth and polish. 
Dremel makes  cone shaped felt wheels.  With a little rouge a few twirls of the thumb really polishes the bearing.  As for the axle, you can chuck it into a dremel, then use a leather rouge board (strop) to polish the tips. (Also use the "strop" to sharpen exacto blades)   If you don't have a rouge board just glue a small piece of tooling cowhide to a board, wet the leather a little, then rub with a dremel rouge stick. 

Bo

[ebtbob]

Good Morning All,

       There is a lot of good advice here.   The best comment made was that there is nothing you really have to do in this hobby.
        For me,  I go to the expense of replacing not only the wheel sets but also the trucks.   I use the sprung trucks from E&B,  at one time the Lindberg line.   I put Intermountain wheel sets in with no reaming.   As a matter of fact,  I have never reamed any truck side frame I have ever owned.   My basic reasoning for the change of trucks is that I feel the sprung trucks track better over imperfect track work.    My home layout is all Peco turnouts and Atlas flex track.   But,  when I go to the club we run on handlaid track and turnouts.   That is where I really begin to appreciate my sprung trucks.
       As for the Intermountain wheels....I like fact that they are all metal including the axles.   This does give weight but more importantly,  the metal wheel,  regardless of manufacturer does not get cruded up like the plastic wheels do  because of static electricity and are much easier to clean and you will not damage the wheel surface like you can if you are not careful with plastic wheels.

Bob

[lanny]

Bo,

Thanks for some really excellent ideas. Wish I were mechanically minded to be able to figure things like that out.

RE your comment about not wanting to 'take off material, but just smooth and polish'. I have found (in my experience) that the reamer is more of a 'deburring' tool ... but I have run into a variety of mfg. trucks that actually had material in the axle holes that severely inhibited rolling quality. The reamer removes that kind of excess while keeping the angle correct (60 degree) and smoothing out the hole.

Your idea about polishing is a very good one ... properly done the way you describe it, makes it sound as though we could coax even more rolling distance from our rolling stock, especially if fitted with metal wheel/axle sets.

lanny nicolet

[Virginian]

I think lanny meant to say the use of the tuner and metal wheels reduce the rolling resistance 300% so it does roll easier, and I agree on the reducing, but I have not seen that great a change.
You do not have to use metal wheels, but plastic does seem to crud up a lot faster, and I have found they are also frequently out of round.  I got a 4 car set from Roundhouse and 75% of the wheels were bad out of the box,  I called them and they already knew there was an issue, and were quite happy to send me replacements and extras.  I have never had a problem with KD or Intermountain wheels, but I just like IM better, probably because of the more machined look and all metal.

[SteamGene]

Bo,
With the right tools, all kinds of things can be made.  I have two reamers, one i bought the other was made for me by a club member with a complete machine shop in his apartment.  I tokd him he should make more and sell them.  Perhaps you should do the same. 
Gene

[bevernie]

Ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh! I want to just give up and sell out! First, it was time- I never seem to have enough! Then, it was couplers- mine (horn-hook) have to be replaced. Now, it's wheels AND trucks!! I just wish I could find someone who could tell me what my stuff is worth (it's getting less every day!!) and make a serious offer!
                                       (828)696-2112
                                                                                           THANX!!
                                                                                             Ernie
                                                                                   Hendersonville, NC

[Derek O]

Ernie: Here's my two cents worth as a newbie who has replaced some of the  plastic wheels.
1. The rolling friction became so minimal that I now have to worry about my layout being totally level! Especially near the uncoupler magnet!
2. I should have made sure the axles were non-magnetic.
3. With metal wheels I have to ensure the uncoupler magnet is perfectly centred between the rails.
My vote is for KISS approach - keep it simple. If it works but it ain't perfect how much time and money do you want to spend!!??

Just my thoughts...

Derek

[bevernie]

Actually, Derek, you've just added to my perpexity! I've really gotten depressed as a result of not having enough time, but the things that I need to change are adding to my delimma! I'm just ready to sell my "stuff"!
                                                                                             THANX!!
                                                                                               Ernie
                                                                                    Hendersonville, NC

[Derek O]

Sorry about that Ernie.

Time is one thing I haven't been able to find for sale on ebay or at my local hobby store! I must say this hobby is quite a pursuit. And thank goodness for all the dedicated people on this site and others that have helped me through the learning curve. They have saved me tons of time and money.

Derek