My Last Locomotive Project

[jonathan]

Sounds ominous, but it merely means I have found the last loco I need for my layout.  It covers all the bases:

I need a road switcher that will operate on tight radii (18" if necessary).  Although, my mainline and junction is all 22 and 24 in. radius.

I really wanted to take on a brass project without breaking the bank.  This is certainly reasonable.

Had to be a B&O or one that could be easily made into a B&O loco.

I'm not a scratchbuilder, but I want to start from the ground up.  Alot of disassembly and assembly will be required.

Well I found a 'late 1970's' United/PFM USRA 0-8-0 switcher that seems to be all I want.  First and foremost was overall function.  While it has an open frame motor, it test ran very smoothly and slowly on the LHS test loop; no shorts or binds that could be detected at regular and slow speeds.  It is quite noisy, but I think a new motor, idler gearbox and connecting rod will make it a quiet runner.

There are a couple of parts missing; headlight, steam generator in front of the stack, etc.  These are readily available brass parts; always seem to be in stock through a few sources.

The B&O didn't use USRA 0-8-0's that I could find--they made their own.  However, the L-2 series looked like USRA twins with a couple of little mods here and there.  So I think I may take the plunge:  Here's my choice for a project locomotive:





Perhaps, with a new motor, there will be room for a backhead and crew (I hope).










I would put in a headlight, but the reverse light would be non-working, with a lens... just to prevent passing wires from the loco to tender (it's a convenience thing).

Some of you have, no doubt, played with a little brass.  Just wondering if this seems like a worthwhile project, before I jump in with both feet?  I believe I can turn this into a nice locomotive.  This will be a little more involved than the Varney, or the Spectrum projects.  Thanks.

Regards,

Jonathan

[OldTimer]

Looks like a great choice for a rehab.  I know you'll do a fine job.  I apologize if you're already familiar with them, but NorthWest Short Line (nwsl.com) might be a good place to start looking for drive-train parts.  They even have a number of tutorials on the site.  Have fun!!!
OldTimer

[jonathan]

Thanks, guys.

I have been studying the products and tutorials at NWSL, as well as, the alternatives available at micromark.  Looks like I'll have to collect a couple of specialized tools, too (puller and/or press).  Perhaps I'll find a club member who already has these tools (fingers crossed).

I'll work on the mechanics first.  The shell detailing will be the second half of the project.  Looks like this will keep me busy during the winter months, or longer. 

Regards,

Jonathan

[ebtnut]

Yes, the B&O never had any USRA 0-8-0's, only 0-6-0's (Class D-30).  They rebuilt a bunch of E-24 and E-27 Consols instead.  The rebuilds had larger drivers than the USRA jobs since they began as road engines.  Some of the L-1's and L-2's lasted almost to the very end.  A can motor and maybe a new NWSL gearbox should be all it takes, since these were nice models to begin with.  Cal-Scale parts for headlight, generator, etc. will do the job for the needed details. 

[J3a-614]

Jon is actually a pretty lucky dog!  The B&O didn't have USRA 0-8-0s, and neither does he!  Somebody put the wrong engine in the USRA box, or Jon got the wrong box, but in any event, the engine is a PFM B&O L-2!  The prototypes were rebuilds from E-27 2-8-0s (which PFM also made at the same times they produced various runs of this 0-8-0).

http://www.northeast.railfan.net/images/bo858s.jpg

http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/bo/bo-s862.jpg

The USRA variant, for comparison:

http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/920-60105

Lower drivers, short frame Baker gear (B&O favored the long-frame version, which Jon's model has), different domes, different cab, overall smaller size. different compressor locations, etc.

He also has a later version with an enclosed gearbox, said to be a considerable improvement at PFM, which was reported to have brass engines that ran decently, at least compared with some others.

Oh, Jon's a lucky dog, lucky dog, woof, woof, woof!

[jonathan]

Whoa...

For the life of me, I couldn't figure out how this "USRA" switcher looked so much like a B&O L-2.  Never studied the USRA photos, just believed what it said on the box.

Now I know a few things I didn't know before:

1.  I don't have the original box (I can live with that for certain).

2.  I have just used my lifetime supply of luck.

3.  I have been told there are no accidents.  I wonder if that's more than a philisophical statement.

Once again, J3a-614, you have made my day!

Regards,

Jonathan

[jdmike]

Excellent buy Johnathan, Those old PFM/United models are built like a tank. Actualy with some proper turn up, that original motor and drive will operate as quiet as a modern can motor.  The gear box and ratio are good on these models, normaly the rubber tube that connects the motor to the box is hard and brittle, both of which cause noise, as does dried and congelled grease.  clean out the old grease from the gear box, hit all the bearings with a light weight oil, clean the communtator on the motor and put a new piece of rubber tubing in there.  You will have to adjust the tubing so its not putting thrust loads on the gear box or motor bearings, once you find the sweet spot, she will run smooth and quiet.   I have done many of these engines and have had guys think I have put a can motor in them, when it was just the old Pittman.   If the old motor is done for, a simple can motor like a Sagami, Cannon or Mashma is all you need, mount motor with bathtub caulk and connect it with a fresh rubber tube. I usualy strap the motor to the frame with electrical tape till the caulk cures overnight.   Then you can remove the tape and test run/adjust the rubber tube.  The gear box floats per sea on these and they are best left this way, allowing the rubber tube to keep it in place.   Enjoy your new model!!!    Mike

[NWsteam]

Jonathan,

I followed your last two projects with great interest. You do fantastic work! Sitting on the edge of my seat to see what this will look like when done.

-Brad

[jonathan]

NWSteam,

Thanks.  This project will go slowly.  I will post pictures and updates, but don't hold your breath.

jdmike,

I like to rework the original parts as much as anybody.  However, for this project, I am concerned about how many amps will be drawn.  I haven't moved to the dark side (DCC)... yet.  But, just in case, I will be putting in the most efficient drive train as possible.  An ounce of prevention...

I appreciate your comment on the caulk.  That seems to be the accepted  practice.  So, one problem solved.

Regards,

Jonathan

[J3a-614]

Don't know if this will help, but I remember seeing it some time back; it may have some hints for the things you may want to do.

http://brassbackshop.com/

[GN.2-6-8-0]

As for the back up light issue if running strickly DC there is a work around where no wire is needed between the engine and tender for a working back up light, Let me dig around in my old files and hopefully I'll find it for you.

[jonathan]

J3a,

Thanks, again.  I opened an account on brassbackshop.  Not ready to ask questions, yet, since I need to get the loco off layaway first.

For now my biggest concern will be putting in a new gearbox--something I've never done before.  The folks at NWSL insist I will need to pull the main gear off the axle and replace it with their gear.  This involves some serious pulling, pressing and quartering.  The tools are available, but quite expensive.  My hope is to open up the present gearbox and discover the original gear is the same configuration as the replacement gear, like the same number of teeth and gear width.  I know... wishful thinking.

GN 2-6-8-0,

Would be interested in the work around.  I have some leftover Bachmann plastic tender trucks, and have considered the kadee centering spring trick to get all wheel pick up in the tender.  That was successful on the bowser and mantua projects.   I does involves passing wires to the locomotive.

Regards,

Jonathan

[ebtnut]

Jonathon:  Replacing the gearbox necssarily means pulling a driver off the axle, then pulling the old gear and pressing on the new NWSL gear.  The worm, worm gear and gearbox are a matched unit.  This is not for the feint of heart, and you need the NWSL gear puller set, as well as the driver quartering jig.  I would begin by installing a good can motor as discussed earlier.  Many of those old PFM/United gear boxes were pretty good by themselves. 

[Doneldon]

jonathan-

Last project, huh?  I'll bet!

                      -- D

[jonathan]

Well, it looks like I can choose between two paths.

I have a decent motor (not great) and some leftover connectors from an Athearn project.  I could connect them to the current gearbox (after cleaning and lubing) and see how it goes.

OR

I could pull out the big guns (dollars) and get the puller, quarterer, gearbox, connectors and can motor.  This is clearly the costly way, but the performance would be greatly enhanced, I'm sure.

Thanks, again, guys.  I will ponder this for a little while.

Regards,

Jonathan