turn table

[full maxx]

Is there a turn table either manual or electric that will handle up to a 2-10-2 other than the always outa stock Walthers...would be good to be some what cheaper than that one also....or is it possible to scratch build one

[OldTimer]

Certainly it's possible to scratch build a turntable.  Over the years, I've read a number of articles on this subject.  Try searching the Internet.  Surely there is an archived article somewhere.
OldTimer

[Doneldon]

maxx-

You can also kit-bash one.  Just get a functional turntable (the newer Atlas product with 15^o spacing works well and is reliable) and mount your "real" turmtable to it.  This has the advantages of easily providing power, indexing and any length you want.  It's even possible to do it so the bottom of the pit doesn't rotate but that's a lot of work for minimal improvement in appearance.  Good luck!
                                                                                                                                                                     -- D

[NMWTRR]

I think there was an article or two in Model Railroader magazine several years ago suggesting using the Atlas turntable and connecting it to the scratchbuilt turntable using a old style black photographic film canister.  They inverted the canister and used the bottom in the scratch built turntable. They then glued the top to the atlas turntable and it made it easy to assemble. The wires just ran up through the canister.

Best of luck!

[ScottyB]

Walthers is coming out with some new ones (DCC controlled) that should be out in February.  Pricey, but fully built up with indexing - very little tweaking is needed, so it might be worth it in that sense.

I know Doug Coffey took an Atlas turntable and made it look just outstanding - photos 12 and 15 on this page.  Might not be big enough for a 2-10-2 though, but it's a good modeling reference.

There are also a few 90' turntable kits from Walthers that show up on eBay all the time, but I've heard they are tough to get "right".  And Heljan makes a 14" one in HO that is available from some online retailers for about $35.  No idea about the operation or quality.  Custom Model Railroads also makes one, but now we are getting up in price again.

Good luck!
Scott

[full maxx]

how difficult is it to use the Walther's with ez track...the big one

[jonathan]

FM,

Since no one else has taken a stab at this, yet:

In my mind, I like to keep it simple whenever possible.  Since you are thinking of investing in the largest and priciest turntable, I would concentrate on installing it as correctly as possible.  THEN,  I would get a couple of sections of flex track, connect the flex track to your ez track, a couple of feet from the turntable complex, then work out some sort of slight grade to meet the height of the turntable bridge.

If you have an abundance of leftover ez track, it is possible to remove the grey roadbed from the track, so you can accomplish the same thing.  Removing the roadbed is not easy, but doable.  You may ruin the first piece you attempt.  However, it will help you figure out where the glue joints are located for the next piece.  I have done it by wiggling a flathead screw driver between the ties and the roadbed.

I may be wrong, but I think it would be harder to manipulate the height of the turntable to meet the height of the ez track.

I spent quite some time with a calculator trying to figure out a way you could use the new Bachmann turntable.  It's bridge is 10" long.  I believe that's just a bit short for the 2-10-2.  It would be interesting to put the loco on the bachmann turntable just to see how close the loco comes to fitting.  I don't know the measurement from the pilot wheel to the last tender wheelset.

Regards,

Jonathan

Addendum:

This is a bit radical, but I have set a long stall track directly opposite the approach track on my 9" (Atlas) turntable.  I can drive my 4-8-2 straight across the turntable and park it in the stall.  Of course I can't turn it around, but at least it has a place to rest when not pulling a train.  I usually back it in so it can drive out forward and go to work.  Just a thought. jv

[OldTimer]

A turntable is essentially a girder bridge.  Most bridges do not have ballasted decks although some through-girder bridges do.  I don't think I have ever seen a turntable with a ballasted deck.  Furthermore, track around engine facilities did not have a well defined, ballasted, main line look to it...rather, the track often was down in the cinders/gravel almost to the rail tops. 

If I were trying to integrate EZ Track with a non-EZ Track turntable, I'd stop the EZ Track some distance from the turntable, like Jonathan says.  Then I'd use sheet cork to get everything on the same level.  You can use flex track or sectional track on top of the cork and it should match up with the EZ Track.  At the turntable site, the cork can be cut to allow the turntable pit lip to sit either on top of the cork or on top of the sub-roadbed, depending on the turntable design. 

Jonathan  is absolutely correct when he says that your primary task is to get the turntable installed and working correctly.  Everything else is negotiable.  Good luck.
OldTimer

[jward]

since most turntables require you to cut a hole in your plywood (or whatever you use for a base) it shouldn't be that difficult to raise the turntable to whatever level you want. if the turntable pit has a lip around it, you might be able to run a strip of cork roadbed around the edge of the plywood hole, and rest the lip of the turntable pit on that. that should get your height close  to ez track height.

[full maxx]

hey Guys thanks for the comments and great ideas