Timber Trestle

[mf5117]

Thanks for all the replies you have gave me some good idea's ,and a little more knowledge . I will start these after the holidays . In the mean time will be gathering up material . I had to laugh , the redwood I was offered is 2x12x10ft . And I thought to myself , how bad do I really want trestle's .Cutting planing sizing . I really want to stay with the round  creosote look  .

[smcgill]

To some the cutting /planing /sizing is the fun stuff!!!
Keep us informed and pics!!
Sean

[Loco Bill Canelos]

on my saw half that would end up as sawdust,  but I still do it once a year I use cedar, and treated lumber, and would love to have that piece of redwood you have!!

[jsmvmd]

Dear Friends,

Has anyone tried using balsa wood for a trestle project ?  It seems to me the structure would be strong enough to handle any reasonable weight if properly engineered.  Too, it would be easier to work with.  Notwithstanding, I do love a good piece of wood.  Never having tried redwood, does it cut nicely ?  Worked construction in south Jersey many moons ago, and the local wood was cured hemlock, full cut.  What a marvelous wood, easy to work with, nails drive like into butter, holds like iron.

Thanks and best wishes,

Jack

[smcgill]

Has anyone tried using balsa wood for a trestle project ? 
Jack

If you are talking inside by all means!!  BUT
I do believe basla wood would suck up to much water! Rot will follow. Cedar or any rot resistance  wood should work better. Cedar is soft and is easy to cut and nail.
Just my findings.
Sean

[Doneldon]

js...

I wouldn't use balsa, even inside.  Yes, it's strong enough to support
the weight but it isn't strong enough to survive any handling, bumps
while correcting a derailment, etc.  I suggest basswood for indoors as
it has the strength, is easy to work with, and is inexpensive.  For
outdoors I'd use cedar, heart redwood (muy expensivo!) or pressure
treated wood.
                                                             -- D

[jsmvmd]

Dear Don,

Yours is the better suggestion !  I forgot how nice basswood is.

Best Wishes,

Jack

[mf5117]

Was making an attempt today to get some experience making my trestles . Still need to put the top runners on under the tie's .And I guess what you would call rung's between the tie's "please correct me I may be wrong . This is just a test to give me an idea of what I'm up against . Can't wait to start building .Just picked up some dowel and sq stock just to see how it would look . I made these small ones off the template at the start of this thread ... any comments will help . By no means is this finished just a test got about 45 larger ones to build .  mf5117

[Doneldon]

mf5117-

Well I'm impressed!!

               -- D

[mf5117]

More progress on my test trestle




these are the 6 I built sunday .going to make 3ft sections . the next one i'm going to make will be 1/4 of a 6ft rad . circle   
regards : mf5117

[on30gn15]

This is just a test to give me an idea of what I'm up against .

Looking like pretty fair "test results" 

[jsmvmd]

Dear Mark,

Impressive !  Did you say you are building this for outside application ?  How do you plan to affix the track ?  If in a warm climate, do you anticipate problems with track expansion and contraction ?

Best Wishes,

Jack

[mf5117]

For some good info on Trestles go to the "RGS Technical Page" and click on Vol 1,#1 Bridges.  Also other good info there.
Art

I did some research on this link Art turned me on to . I'm going to lay the stringers down directly under center of the rails on top of the bolts like the illustration shows . Then between each tie I will put a rung as I call them . Then a guard rail just outside the tie's on each side of the tie's . Going to build 8 more of these 3 ft sections and 4 that graduate into a 6 ft rad. then back to straight  then 2 1/4 sections of an 8ft rad . I'm going to at 1st let the track free float inbetween the guard rails . To join the sections together , I left equal distance "they are symmetrical about center " We have a sheet metal brake and going to use copper shim stock . Will break it to 1/4 inside dimensions channel shape to fit the stringer ,kinda like a rail joiner  , drill 2 holes and use .035 welding wire for the pins to join them together and also for easy removal . I think and feel I can get these all built in a month or so .Haven't decided the finish .Thought of a garden sprayer and some sort of stain and soak them 3 to 5 coats .

     We do get alot of humidity and rain here .I will let it free float for now . But what I have is pretty unique, and so far no derailments ever and that's hard to say but true and everthing has run smoothly for being a beginner in G Scale . I will keep pictures of my progress and by all mean please feel free to make suggestions if you see something that might  make or break me ....

best regards:  MF5117 RR

[mf5117]

Just an update .I've built 3 more of the 3ft sections I have posted on this thread . I'm working on the 1st curved section . I'm having a hard time with the miters on the stringers on top of the bents .As every 6 inches as with the others  each stringer has to mitered and brad nailed into the girt . And splits in the wood  are giving me a problem . I thought about gluing them , but I'm not sure they will hold up being glued due to the  elements being outdoors .

I've also started a girder bridge that will be 6ft long and can't wait to get it finished and get pictures posted in a week or so .  Who say's you can't do it ,you just have to do it and each time it gets better and better ....

regards mf5117

[Sleeping Bear]

  Drilling pilot holes for the brads may eliminate some of the splitting issues. Tite Bond or liquid nails should hold up pretty good for a while at least, and if you drill pilots and nail them as well   then one would think you'd be covered on both sides. If the pilot holes raise questions as to strength, epoxy the brads and set them by hand. Don't mean to make you more work .....just hope it helps......Later All .......S.B.