HELP! How do I correctly wire a Spectrum Magnum power pack to E-Z Track?

[archi-dad]

My son was given a used E-Z Track "Mountaineer" set, which came with the Spectrum Magnum power pack.  The set-up also includes two turn-out controllers.  I've made the cable connections the way I think they're supposed to be, and the controllers work, but the train does not run.  Please, if anyone can tell me what I've done wrong, I'd appreciate it.  Here's how it's wired up now:  one red cable from the "Variable DC" points on the power pack to the track; the other red cable from the "Accessories AC" points on the power pack to the turnout controller switches.  The turnout controllers operate correctly, and when the speed dial is turned up, the lights in the train engine gradually brighten, but it does not move.  Any help would be appreciated.

[bobwrgt]

Try connecting one red wire from the track to the DC output and the other track  wire to the other DC output with nothing connected to the switch controller. See if the train runs OK without connecting to the AC.  The train is meant to run on DC only.

Bob

[archi-dad]

Tried as you suggested, but no luck.  Plus, with that configuration, two red cables going from the DC screws on the power pack to both sides of the straight track piece, I don't have a red cable to go from the AC screws to the turnout controller accessories (which I know I had connected when the system ran properly a couple years ago when it was last set up).

[Jim Banner]

...  two red cables going from the DC screws on the power pack to both sides of the straight track piece ...

If I am reading you correctly, you are using TWO cables to connect up the tracks.  Each cable has two wires with a plug on one end and two bare wires sticking out the other end.  What you should be doing is the following:
(1) Use only ONE cable to connect to the tracks.  Connect one of its bare wires to one of the dc screws on the power pack.
(2) connect the other bare wire to the other dc screw on the power pack.
(3) be sure that the bare metal strands of one wire do not touch the bare strands from the other wire or the screw to which the other other wire is connected.
(4) plug the plug into one side or into the other side of the connector track.
(5) if you do not like the relationship between direction switch position and train direction on the track, unplug the plug, turn it over 1/2 of a turn, and plug it back in.

I think you will find this works.  And it will leave you the second red cable for connecting up the turnouts.

Jim

[bobwrgt]

Sounds as if the problem is in the engine. Has it been in storage for a long time.? Could be the lights work but the motor does not. Might have to be lubricated inside
Could you tell us what engine you have?

Bob

[archi-dad]

Jim and Bob - thanks for the help.  Jim - your setup is exactly how I had it when I described the problem I was having.  I'm thinking that it may be that, as Bob suggests, the engine is the problem after all.  I'll see if I can find out what model it is and post again later. If it helps, it is the standard engine that came with the Mountaineer set, and yes, it has been in storage for a couple years.

[archi-dad]

Further info, for what it's worth:  the Mountaineer set box describes the engine as a "Bachmann Plus GP35 Locomotive with operating headlight"; it is blue with Conrail markings and the number 2324.  Is there any diagnostic that can be done to determine whether its motor is just not working anymore, and that this would be the problem?

[Jim Banner]

You can eliminate the power pack, wiring, track, rail joiners, etc. by feeding power directly to the locomotive.  You can use a new, fresh, alkaline 9 volt rectangular battery to do this.  Just touch one of the snaps to a wheel on one side of the locomotive and at the same time touch the other snap to a wheel on the other side of the locomotive.  You might have to try more than one combination of wheels depending on how clean the pickup points are.  I suspect, based on your previous testing, that the light will light up but the motor will not turn, indicating the wiring through to the light is okay but either the wiring to the motor or the motor itself has a problem.

Next step is to remove the plastic shell off the locomotive, then repeat the above test.  When you know you have good contact by the headlight lighting up, turn the motor by hand.  When a model has been in storage for a long time, it sometimes needs this treatment to get it started again.  Once started, a bit of running will clean up the motor so that is starts every time.  What happens is that the copper plates that make up the commutator part of the armature can corrode so that there is no contact with one or both motor brushes.  A bit of running will usually polish up the commutator as the brushes rub against it.

How long it takes for the copper to corrode depends on a number of factors including how much water vapour and other gases are present in the air.  In really dry storage, the commutator may still be clean after 10 years or more.  At the other extreme, humid air with a bit of hydrogen sulphide ("rotten egg gas") in it can blacken the copper in less than a month.  In the area where I live, virtually all houses have basements and so most H0 layouts are built in those basements.  Most of the basements have floor drains which incorporate a trap to keep sewer gases from entering our homes.  So when someone local has problems with locomotives not running after a few years in storage in their basements, I usually suggest they make sure the trap of their basement floor drain contains water to keep the sewer gases, including hydrogen sulphide, outside the house where they belong.  After I moved the washing machine to a different part of the house where it no longer drains into the floor drain, and before installing full house air conditioning which drains condensate into the floor drain, there was a period of several years where I had to toss a bucket of water down the floor drain about twice a year.  The need to add water to the trap became apparent when locomotives which were running fine when spring came were no longer running at all in the fall when I would get back to model railroading.  This might or might not have anything to do with your problem, but it was a thought that came to mind about 3 o'clock in the morning when I was laying awake thinking about it.

Jim

[bobwrgt]

If you have tried running the engine with the shell off or turning the motor shafts by hand and it still does not run look at the copper strips that are attached to the motor. There should be 2 strips coming from the motor for sure at least one, if not both are just pressure fit against the frame to make contact. This is a spot that often corrodes and motor no longer gets current. Wiggle the strip with a toothpick or small screwdriver and see if the engine starts running.

Bob

[archi-dad]

Jim and Bob - thanks much for the thoughts and advice.  I'll try checking the engine later this week and report back.