Large Scale Track

T34 · November 02, 2010, 02:53:41 PM

Hi,
Is there a company that makes DCC switches for outside use, in large scale? Also, what type of track is good to use outside? I am planning to start a garden railway in the spring. I want to go with a mountainous theme, so I bought a Bachmann two-truck shay. It is 36 ton Pardee & Curtin Lumber Co. No. 11, the 81196. Also I bought the lumber jack trainset for the second loop, so I need curves to suit both of these engines. I also plan on making a small grade. The tracks will only be a small oval, one inside of the other, the outer one with the grade. So if anyone reccommends a certain type of track please let me know.
Thanks,
Tim

Nathan · November 02, 2010, 05:35:16 PM

You will get many different answers to this, all will be correct.

Stainless Steel is going to be more cost, but should require less cleaning then brass and will not expand and contact as much with temperature changes.

Brass track will cost less and if you can put together a simple track cleaner car, or but one of the ones on the market, will work and many people are happy using it,

The Shay will run on 8 Ft diameter track, but use larger if you have room. The Lumberjack will run on 4 Ft diameter track, but will look better on larger curves.

I use DCC on my large scale, but prefer to use manual turnouts because mother nature tends to drop things on the track and quite often the droppings will end up between the point and the stock rail. If you want to use remote turnouts most DCC manufactures have turnout decoders that will work with any of the remote / powered turnouts. No one that I know of makes DCC turnouts with built in decoders.

Stevelewis · November 02, 2010, 07:15:32 PM

Tim

There IS a company that produces G scale points Turnouts with built in decoders:

TRAINLINES -45 ( they also do some rather nice rolling stock as well!)

The UK distributor is (www.glendalejunction.co.uk) I am sure thst if you were to contact Glendale Junction Brian would advise you of anything you need to know.
Having said that I have been very satisfied with LGB 55024 point decoders which fit directly on to LGB Point motors, the power is then simply a 2 wire connection to the track, I have used these for many years without problem, there is a UK Forum G Scale Central (www.gscalecentral.co.uk) on which there is lots of info. and many members who are experts on Large scale having been in the hobby for many years ( for example |I built my first Garden Line in '76 thats before Bachmann produced large scale!!)

I have used Brass track outdoors for years without problems, cleaning is not such a big issue I find that Using A wood block wrapped in ashhet of EMERY paper on a regular basis say once every 3 to 4 weeks keeps the track clean.

Hope this helps

Doneldon · November 03, 2010, 12:07:14 AM

T34 (I thought that was a tank, not a train!)-

You have several options for rail material: stainless, nickel-silver, brass, aluminum and steel. Each has advantages and disadvantages. This includes cost. For example, stainless will conduct well, resist corrosion and be durable, but at the highest cost. Aluminum will be much cheaper but you may have some corrosion problems and reduced durability. A factor in your choice should be how you plan to power your system. You'll want to look at a good conductor which won't require a lot of cleaning if you will use track power, especially so if you also plan to use DCC. Conductivity won't be an issue if you use battery power and radio controls, or steam. Overall, I'd recommend strongly against brass as it can be a maintenance nightmare outdoors. Other than stainless, steel also has lots of problems. It would be great if someone made Cor-Ten steel model railroad track, but no one does. That leaves stainless, N-S and aluminum. Each is a good choice with stainless maybe the winner by a whisker for track power. Nickel-silver can also be a good choice.

Also, pay attention to your roadbed and ties. Make sure they are UV resistant and suitable for outdoor use. You won't encounter a large number of problems here with most materials but it's always good to ask.

Good luck with your project. I know you've been working on your plan for quite a while. That's good. Planning is a critical part of the process.
-- D

Mark Oles · November 03, 2010, 12:31:41 PM

Tim,

The others have given you good advice. In my experience, brass track (LGB and Aristo) has oxidized very quickly but shines up quickly, too. Personally, I have built 2 garden railroads using brass and one using stainless. The stainless is 99% less maintenance. If you are going on board battery power, then you can use just about anything for track.

If I remember correctly, that shay will go around a 5' diameter curve or tighter. It is a good idea, however, to plan your railroad with 8' diameter curves so you can run bigger equipment.

T34 · November 03, 2010, 05:16:06 PM

Thanks guys! All of this info will help a lot in planning the railway. By the way I plan to use the NCE PH-Pro-R as my DCC system. Also does anyone have any suggestions for sound decoders for the shay and davenport locos.
Thanks a lot!
Tim

armorsmith · November 03, 2010, 05:22:22 PM

T34,

The 36 Ton Shay paperwork that came with mine says 10' diameter minimum recommended. I seriously recommend you adhere to that minimum. I also recommend looking around George Schreyer's site http://www.girr.org/girr/index.html There is a wealth of information there, including some on this Shay.

As for sound cards, Phoenix is the only one I am aware of that actually has a sound card with true shay sound capability.

Bob C.

T34 · November 03, 2010, 07:26:34 PM

Hi, I found a decoder with sounds that i like. It is the tsu-1000 by Tsunami. Would this decoder have enough power to support the motors in the 36-ton shay? If anyone knows, please tell me.
Thanks,
Tim

Sleeping Bear · November 03, 2010, 10:46:36 PM

I would recommend looking at George Schreyer's site, he has a lot of info on a lot of different items as well as tips and tricks http://www.girr.org/girr/tips/tips1/shay_tips.html It has been well worth my time and recommend giving it a look see......Later......S.B.

Doneldon · November 04, 2010, 08:03:03 AM

T34-

You can use separate sound and motion controllers. The down side is double installation and probably a bit higher cost. The advantage is you can get the best of both.
-- D

Nathan · November 04, 2010, 09:53:35 AM

If you just want a low cost unit look at he MRC 1819 which has street price well under $100 and use a 3" speaker like the Pheonix 820-770.

The unit has lots of adjustments for chuff, whistle, bell and other items. I have them in my two truck Shay and am very happy with them.

T34 · November 04, 2010, 08:52:00 PM

Nathan, I think the MRC 1819 is what I'll buy, thanks! I looked at it's manual from the MRC website. Can the ACC 1&2 outputs from the decoder be used as regular lighting outputs, like for the cab light? If I can I plan to keep the original firebox flicker circuit board and just hook it's power wires to the decoder. Also if you ran into any problem during decoder installation, I would like to know what it was.
Thanks,
Tim

P.S. Does anyone know if the $10.00 smoke unit in the general large scale parts category on the parts website, will fit in the 0-4-0 davenport gas switcher?

Nathan · November 04, 2010, 09:20:22 PM

Tim,
The two Acc. may be used for what ever you want. I left the flicker board wired as it came and have not had any problems.

I had no problems with the install, but then I have been putting decoders in Large Scale loco's for over 10 years. Just take your time and don't do like I did on one early install where I put the loco on the regular track before putting on the the program track, I had two wires wrong and burned up a decoder.

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Large Scale Track