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Old Tyco (Life Like) Santa Fe F7A

Started by jesse, February 02, 2007, 02:15:23 PM

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jesse

I recently acquired two Santa Fe Super Chief engines from EBay.  They both have the old horn and hook couplers.  I have received new #37 for the pilot coupler and #35 for the rear coupler from Kadee.  I have removed the pilot coupler from the engines, but I am not certain how to remove the rear coupler which is a truck mounted coupler.  I hope someone on the forum has some experience in this as I am a three week old newbie in model railroading.

Jesse
If it ain't broke, don't fix it!

Mike O.

Not 100% positive, but didn't those old horn hooks just twist out?  IIRC, there's a hole in the center the fits on a nub - you just twist it a bit to get the hole to clear the nub and the coupler slides right out.  I also was thinking that Kadee would have you cut off that truck coupler pocket to body mount their replacement, but follow their directions to be sure.
"This is such a good fit, it's practically a convulsion!" -  The Aardvark

CJCrescent

Kadee does make a "Talgo" adapter. Its a plastic bushing the fits over the old post in the talgo coupler pocket to allow you to install a Kadee coupler in the old pocket. They come about a dozen or two per pack. It prevents you from having to cut off the old pocket.

Sorry I don't have the number off the top of my head, but they can be found at http://www.kadee.com
Keep it Between the Rails
Carey
Alabama Central Railway

James Hail

#3
If it has the Model power chassis there is a flat square plug installed from the bottom of the coupler pocket that is a pain to remove without cracking the truck frame where the pocket is thin....they snap in with alot of force and small jewlers screwdrivers and prying are the only way to get them out....it was not made to be removed....the plugs  hook into the coupler pocket in the front and back and are oversized in this direction and thicker...so they stay put.

Currently landscaping and ballasting a 4x10 HO.....using a NCE DCC PowerCab and Having a Blast.[move]

jesse

Thanks for all the help and suggestions.  I have my trusty jeweler's screwdriver out and will try to remiove the beast without cracking the truck.

Jesse

If it ain't broke, don't fix it!

James Hail

Very slowly pry the pin up out of the hornhook coupler and sometimes twisting the coupler wil remove it also.

Currently landscaping and ballasting a 4x10 HO.....using a NCE DCC PowerCab and Having a Blast.[move]

jesse

No problem there, James.  I have removed both the front and rear hook and horn from the coupler box.  Installing the new knuckle coupler in the front won't be too much of a problem, drill a hole in the old pin holder and cement the new assembled draft gearbox in place.  It is the one in the rear that I am concerned about.

Jesse
If it ain't broke, don't fix it!

James Hail

I have taken a old hornhook and cut the hole in it off then rounded this piece to fit inside the larger hole on a ez mate coupler (knuckle) then CA glue it into the knuckle and pop it back into the talgo hornhook mount....OR You can also cut the extra part of the hook off the hornhook and round it with a dremmel and get them to couple to a knuckle coupler...making your own magic mate coupler .

Jim
Currently landscaping and ballasting a 4x10 HO.....using a NCE DCC PowerCab and Having a Blast.[move]

jesse

Jim, sorry for the delay in replying, but I have been waiting for Kadee to send me a different coupler.  At first Sam told me that I would need a #35 for the rear of the engine...I order the #35 and then I got an email saying that after I sent them the photo of the coupler that is on the engine now, the one they sent is wrong, it sould be a #27 or 28.  I have ordered them and am waiting for them to come in.  Will see what happens.  In the meantime my rolling stock is still coming in on a daily basis by UPS and Priority mail.  I have found some pretty good buys on EBay.

Jesse
If it ain't broke, don't fix it!