2 boys, 2 trains, 1 layout?

[trainmama]

LOL!  I thought about that too.  I hope they are able to resist the urge to "accidentally" run into each other.

I checked Hobby Lobby a couple weeks ago, the only thing left was a couple packs of signs and some O track.

I missed it.

[Jim Banner]

@ Jim:  You mention using the power packs that came with the train sets for block wiring.  Do we cut the red wires that connect the terminal derailer to the power pack and splice in wires from the selectors?  I understand all the wiring outlined in the Atlas book - but the "plug in" on the controller and rerailer have me confused.  Also, can I use Atlas terminal joiners on the E-Z track? 

Are the 2 accessory connectors on each power pack enough to run 4-5 turnouts, a crossing, and a few lighted buildings?  Or do I need a separate power source for them?

I've read a lot about faulty N scale E-Z track turnouts.  Should I use Atlas (brought to grade with roadbed) instead to avoid all the hassle?  Trainpapa is a gunsmith - fitting metal parts is his forte.  However, I'd rather avoid problems if possible.


Also, is there a difference in Cab and block wiring - or is it the same? 

Yes, cut the red wires.  The ones that plug into the power pack are electrically speaking identical to the terminal screws on a conventional power pack.  The wires that plug into the rerailer each connect to one rail.  Just which rail they connect to depends on which way up you insert the plug.  You can also use the Atlas terminal joiners to connect wiring to the track.

The accessory terminals can operate at least one turnout at a time.  The turnout motors draw power only when the button is pushed to switch from one route to another.  So even though you might have dozens of turnouts, you still only need enough power to run one at a time.  As far as buildings are concerned, a few lighted buildings should be okay.  Split them between the two power packs.  You will know that you have too many buildings connected when the trains start slowing down or the circuit breaker inside the power pack shuts everything off for a minute or two while it cools down.  Then it is time to look for an additional power source.  "Wall wart" power supplies (the ones that look like fat plugs) work well for lighting.  Look for one rated 12 volts, 1.0 amps, either ac or dc (lights bulbs don't care.)  Consider a second one for operating the turnouts.  These things often show up at garage sales, thrift stores and surplus stores for a couple of dollars.  Don't worry about what kind of plug is at the other end of the wall wart's wire.  Just chop it off and connect directly to the wires.

N-scale turnouts can be troublesome.  I don't know if the Atlas ones are any better or worse than the Bachmann ones.  It has been a long time since I built an N-scale layout and at that time I had trouble with several brands that I tried.  In retrospect, it may have had more to do with the cars being too light weight and less to do with the turnouts themselves.  Hopefully someone who specializes in N-scale will be able to give you a better answer.

For most purposes, Cab and block wiring are the same.  Historically,  "cab," or "engineer cab" control let you run your train over the whole layout, just as if you were the engineer in the cab of the locomotive.  The blocks of track were wired with this in mind.  At one time, "dispatcher" control was also used, particularly in clubs.  With dispatcher control, the blocks were wired so that each man controlled a section of track, controlling all the trains that ran over his section before handing them off to the fellow controlling the next section.  Either way, the trains basically ran on the same schedules and often it was difficult to tell which system was being used on a particular layout unless you listened very carefully.  Shouts of "who's got my train" indicated cab control while complaints of "your train is waiting" were associated with dispatcher control.  Tower control was yet another form of block control where a central dispatcher not only assigned trains to blocks but also controlled the power to those blocks and often set the turnouts as well.  This system is still used today but mostly has been replaced by DCC.  Fortunately, you don't have to worry about all this - simple two train bock control will do what you want.

Jim

[jward]

i modelled in n scale for a few years. i used the atlas switch motors with no real complaints other than the fact that they are ugly. they have one major advantage in that the switch motor is detatchable from the switch. the manual throws are also interchangeable with the switch motors, and you can start out with all manual switches, and convert them to power as time and money allow. with atlas "code 80" track, the #4 switch is also a drop in replacement for either a 5" straight, or a 19" radius curve. i know before ez track, bachmann n scale track was the same geometry as the atlas track, and atlas and bachmann switches could be used interchangeably. but the bachmann switch motors were semi permanently mounted to the switch, unlike the atlas ones, and not easy to replace if one burned out.

you should be able to mix atlas track with ez track is you use cork roadbed under the atlas track.

[surveyorbill]

Nice that you have 2 boys and a dad to help. My first thought is that N scale would be tedious for  your boys and they may lose interest very quickly. I would rethink this before you get to committed. HO.

As you notice there are very knowledgeable people here to advise although some may over technologicize sp at least to a novice.

You want a tunnel, cut holes in the ends of a shoebox. You wantt a bridge, stack some books up as needed to support tracks temporarily to get where you need to be. I have EZ track in HO and the 9 inch straight track or curved pieces are rigid enough to use as a bridge span on top of your book bridge piers. Kids want instant results however temporary. I have other ideas for the asking.
good luck.

[Joe323]

How old are your Children?  N scale is not really suitable for young children.  Its difficult to handle and delicate.  Even I (being a child at 51 years old) prefer HO to N since I can be bumble fingered at times.