DPDT wiring frustration

[mabloodhound]

Don't throw those 3pdt switches out.   I think I found the problem.   
I went to the Salecom website and downloaded the PDF for your switch.
It shows the 3 common (center) terminals as being the horizontal center lugs,
not the vertical ones.
You can see it here http://www.salecom.com.tw/prodpreview.asp?PDno=PD0001&prdClassNo=001&Source=Products.asp but you'll have to download the PDF to get a good picture.
I tried to attach a 50 KB photo but it said the file was full.

[richg]

Buy a cheap digital multimeter. They come with basic instructions and will do the job if you read and follow the instructions. You can use the ohms part of the meter for continuity checks.
You can pickup new cheap meters for about $10..00 on ebay and Harbor Freight. I have three of these and are the same basic types and have served me well some for years.

Rich

[richg]

Here is what I and many others use for model railroad electrical. You can also use it to make sure you have DCC voltage to the track when locos will not run. Three meters that I have show about 13.8 volts AC.
There is no good reason why every model railroad user cannot have one of these meters.

http://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-digital-multimeter-90899.html

Rich

[Len]

Except for the pin numbers, the Salescom diagram shows what I said. With the switch laying so when you look down on the pins you are looking through the holes (lugs oriented horizontally) the center row of lugs is the common row.

I used pin numbers going:

1--4--7
2--5--8
3--6--9

And the Salescom diagram uses:

9--6--3
8--5--2
7--4--1

But either way, the center lugs (2--5--8 or 8--5--2) are the common lugs and, unless there was damage to the switch from earlier wiring attempts, the connections I suggested should have worked. Strange.

Len

[NarrowMinded]

Len, that was my thought when reading all the trouble, perhaps the little plastic toggle mechanism melted from too much heat.

I like to use alligator clips for heat sinks on items like micro switches.

NM

[richg]

Len, that was my thought when reading all the trouble, perhaps the little plastic toggle mechanism melted from too much heat.

I like to use alligator clips for heat sinks on items like micro switches.

NM

For man years I have soldered and unsoldered wires from switches with no issues.
The last few years I have noticed that switches I have bought off of ebay have a plastic insulator that does not take much heat to soften the plastic and move the switch contact out of position.
You have to be aware of this issue and be careful with the soldering iron. I have not lost a switch yet but did have a couple close calls.

Rich

[Keusink]

Nope. Didn't melt anything. Also, dismantled one after soldering to see if that had happened. Also, tried two toggles in case one was defective. Neither worked even though wired as Len suggested.

A plague on all their houses! I am sticking with Radioshack on these puppies. Thank you all.

Chris

[OldTimer]

Good for you, Chris.  Glad you got 'em working.
Jim

[Kris Everett]

radio shack to the rescue again

[jbsmith]

I got question for those who like math.
With 9 posts for the DPDT switches,,
How many different possible WRONG ways are there to wire this rig up?

[NarrowMinded]

There's one... They way it doesn't work.

Really 3,486,784,400 that's not counting the jumpers needed to reverse the polarity.

NM