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TB2 Bell

Started by GTBob, July 28, 2010, 05:48:27 PM

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GTBob

For What It's Worth---

Bought 2 Lionel #6-5906 Sound Activation Buttons for the 2 loops I run my Williams diesel locos on.  Straight forward install---button wires up between (+) terminal on transformer and (+) on track lock on.  Bell works great on either loop.  No problems w/ this hook whatsoever.

My transformer is a 1952 Lionel ZW w/ diodes replacing the rectifiers (which I believe only effects the horn and not the bell sound).

Thought I'd share this info in case someone without a bell button on their transformer is thinking of giving the bell sound install a go.

Regards,

GTBob
"If a man does his best, what else is there!"--General George S. Patton Jr.

Joe Satnik

#1
Dear Bob,

Keep the load light, though.  

Avoid multiple powered locos, long freight trains, grade climbing, and long strings of lit passenger cars.  

They all put extra current through (add strain to) the switch contacts inside the bell button.

There is an article in Oct. 2006 Classic Toy Trains magazine by Dennis Eichenberg that shows how to bypass the weak contacts with an externally mounted "normally closed" momentary SPST push button switch with a much higher amperage rating.   I don't have a copy in front of me, I'll try to find one and get the part number and source(s) for the switch.   

Hope this helps.  

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik

Edit:  Added magazine article paragraph.   

If your loco is too heavy to lift, you'd better be able to ride in, on or behind it.

GTBob

#2
Hi Joe---

Thanks for the info.  Both my Williams diesel locos haul 4-5 MTH 027 multi-lighted passenger cars.  No grades to worry about.  Bell (and horn) seem to work well w/ these combos.

Regards,

Bob
"If a man does his best, what else is there!"--General George S. Patton Jr.

Joe Satnik

#3
Dear All,

It's been a while. Finally got the Dennis Eichenberg article info.  (Classic Toy Trains, Oct. 2006)

His plans call for a Radio Shack 275-609 switch.  My research, though, shows that the 275-609 is a N.O. (normally open) switch. 
What you really need is a N.C. (normally closed) switch.  

I am scratching my head about this one.  You can't sub one for the other...they're incompatible.  

An SPDT momentary switch would provide the N.C. pair of posts needed.

The RS 275-1549 is a 3-Amp SPDT momentary push button switch.

The RS 275-016 is a 5-Amp 3/4" lever rectangular SPDT switch (like a Micro-switch or roller switch without the roller.)

I like the higher current rating of the rectangular switch.  It's not as pretty as the push button, though.  

Your choice is limited if you only shop RS.  Digi-Key (digikey.com) has a large selection of switches.    

Eichenberg uses a peel and stick square tie-wrap anchor under his control panel to mount the 6-5906 with a tie wrap.

Strap down the button on the Lionel 6-5906 with the same tie wrap.  This bypasses the weak internal switch.  

Each SPDT momentary switch will have three terminals:  N.O., common, and N.C.

Solder the 6-5906 red wire to the RS switch N.C. terminal , leaving a red tail long enough to reach the transformer.

Solder the 6-5906 black wire to the RS switch common terminal, leaving a black tail long enough to reach the center rail lock-on terminal.

Check for wiring shorts between RS switch terminals.

The other transformer terminal should be wired, as usual, to the outside rail lock-on terminal.

Hope this helps.  

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik

Edit: grammar 

 
If your loco is too heavy to lift, you'd better be able to ride in, on or behind it.