Swapping Tenders to Get a Back Up Light

[dulongj]

I wanted to add a back up light to the tender of my 2-8-0 and I was planning to do so by ordering a brass back up light and a lens.  However, this would involve having to struggle with getting a light to work with the brass back up light.  While viewing the Bachmann website I noticed I can order tender shells and this has led me to some possible alternatives. 

Do any of you know if one of the tender shells with a back up light will fit on the 2-8-0 tender frame?  In particular, some of the tenders used on the 2-10-0 or the 2-10-2 look particularly appropriate, but there is no dimensional data on the Bachman web site for me to compare with the tender that came with the 2-8-0.  I measure the 2-8-0 tender to be an HO scale 28.5 feet long and 9.75 feet wide.  What do the tenders for the 2-10-0 and 2-10-2 measure?

Another alternative would just be to swap tenders.  For instance, I could order the 2-10-0 tender shell and frame and substitute them for the tender that came with the 2-8-0.  From other postings I see it is important to also move over the 2-8-0 circuit board if I try this approach.  Are there any other issues I should be concerned with if I try this alternative?

Lastly, from the exploded diagrams on the Bachmann website, I see the parts and their numbers for various back up lights.  However, the Bachmann webpage does not list these parts being available online.  Do you know if it is still possible to order them?  For example, back up light no. 83801 from the 2-10-2 or no. 84302 for the 2-10-0 would both work for me.

I welcome any suggestions or advice.  Thanks.

[ABC]

Why not purchase a short vanderbuilt tender (which has a light) it is available from many online retailers and is still in stock at many hobby shops even though the HO tenders have been discontinued as a separate sale item.

[jonathan]

dulongj,

I recently started a thread about modifying my 2-8-0.  One of the mods included adding a backup light.

I installed a metal tube just big enough to hold a bulb.  I soldered the bulb to some pick up leads, added a diode (so it will only light in reverse), and voila:







You may be interested in a different style, but here's an idea that didn't take long.  I didn't photograph the light, uh lit, but it works, and looks good.

Regards,

Jonathan

[rogertra]

Is that a prototypical back up light installation?

To me it looks like the worst possible place to put a light as the light housing would be subject to leakage from the water in the tank and keeping water out of the wiring would be one heck of a problem.

Electrically you've done a nice job but I think the prototype would have mounted the light above the tank.  Or am I wrong?

[jonathan]

rogerta,

No one will ever accuse me of being prototypical, but I have taken a look at back up lights.  

I have found two basic styles:  the headlight can mounted on top of the tender (older), and the surface mounted light mounted on the back of the tender (newer).  As we approach the end of the steam era, I find more steamers that had a surface mounted light on the rear.  I could be completely wrong, since I didn't do much research, but it's just something I noticed.  To add to the confusion, there aren't a whole lot of photos of tender backs out there.  Although there do seem to be a fair amount of photos of the backs of model locomotives.  Go figure.

To be completely accurate I would need to install a conduit for the wires to run down the back of the tender.  As you mentioned, we don't want to break the watertight integrity of the tank, and neither did the prototype.  It's a detail I've considered adding, just haven't found my rountuit tool, yet.



Take a look at some of the highly detailed, late steam era models available.  They have a similar set up on the backs of their tenders.  Of course theirs look more realistic than mine.  However, I spent about $2 dollars on this project, including the bulb and diode.  A fair trade off in my mind.

I'm stretching the history a bit.  Since my Connie has been modified to an 0-8-0 switcher, it survived well into the late 60's, performing simple yard duties until the shop got tired of fixing it.    It did receive a couple of upgrades along the way, like a surface mounted back up light.

This is my fourth backup light installation on a tender.  I have done both styles of lights.  The light can on top of the tender is a little more effort:  harder to get the can, lens, and match the paint.  It's a little more expensive, too.

For me, it was a matter of convenience.  I wouldn't say my way is right by any means.  It was merely a suggestion for an easy way to add a light.

Regards,

Jonathan

[richg]

You might try #40 magnet wire for external use. There is even smaller diameter magnet wire.

I am using some #40 magnet wire that is difficult to see.

Do a Walther's search for tender light. They have three types.

Do a Google search for ho scale tender light.

Rich

[dulongj]

Nice job Jonathan.  And yes I know that mounting the back up light on the back of the tender was prototypical.  My wife worked on the Pere Marquette 1225 in college and to remember her work on it we purchased the Bachmann model of it.  I noticed that the back up light is on the back of the tender where you placed your light.

However, I am modelling the Milwuakee Road and the back up lights on its 2-8-0s was on top of the tender, in fact, most of them appear to have been on an elevated stand that looks to be about two feet above the top of the tender.  So at a minimum I want to get the back up light on the top of the tender.

And ABC a Vanderbuilt tender would not be appropriate because they did not use them on the Milwaukee Road, at least I have never seen an example of one.

[ABC]

And ABC a Vanderbuilt tender would not be appropriate because they did not use them on the Milwaukee Road, at least I have never seen an example of one.

True, but I don't think you ever mentioned it being Milwaukee Road.

[jonathan]

dulongj,

I have seen the stand style back up light about which you write.  Love that style.  Haven't seen the stand available as a detail part.  It may be out there. 

If I had to scracthbuild the stand, I would use the bypass plugs that come with the 2-8-0s.  You will have to keep the decoder plugged in, but nowadays DCC is the way to go anyway.  You could cut off the middle prongs, flatten the plugs, and there you have the stand legs.  Then an square piece of scrap metal or plastic could be epoxied to the 'legs' to make a stand.  Finally attach a brass light, file it all smooth, paint and you're done.

Well, except for the lens.  I have been forced to use the bulb as a lens most of the time because MV doesn't seem to make clear lenses in various sizes anymore.  I have been fortunate to find one here and there at an LHS, but I had to sand them down to a size that will fit.  Parts for tinkering are hard to find.

I really liked ABC's idea of getting a tender ready made.  Too bad MilwRd didn't use the short vandy tender as you say.  That would have looked great.  Now I'm staring at my B&O Connie, thinking "hmmmm."

Regards,

Jonathan

[ABC]

I really liked ABC's idea of getting a tender ready made.  Too bad MilwRd didn't use the short vandy tender as you say.  That would have looked great.  Now I'm staring at my B&O Connie, thinking "hmmmm."

Jonathan, I believe I am ahead of you on this one, one of my B&O 2-8-0 Consolidations was equipped with a Vanderbuilt short tender about 3 or 4 years ago, I still have the standard tender though.

[Pacific Northern]

I really liked ABC's idea of getting a tender ready made.  Too bad MilwRd didn't use the short vandy tender as you say.  That would have looked great.  Now I'm staring at my B&O Connie, thinking "hmmmm."

Jonathan, I believe I am ahead of you on this one, one of my B&O 2-8-0 Consolidations was equipped with a Vanderbuilt short tender about 3 or 4 years ago, I still have the standard tender though.

It was the Union Pacific 2-8-0 that came with the vanderbilt tender

http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/160-83607

I was lucky to find one of these as they were quite scarce.

[ABC]

I bought my Vandy separate and switched it out with the USRA. I do not have a Bachmann UP 2-8-0, but I do have a (grey) 0-6-0 w/ vandy, a 2-6-2 Prarie, and a 4-8-4 (grey).

[Pacific Northern]

I bought my Vandy separate and switched it out with the USRA. I do not have a Bachmann UP 2-8-0, but I do have a (grey) 0-6-0 w/ vandy, a 2-6-2 Prarie, and a 4-8-4 (grey).

Was this a DCC equipped or DCC ready 2-8-0? Did you have to rewire the board?

[ABC]

Was this a DCC equipped or DCC ready 2-8-0? Did you have to rewire the board?

It came with a Bachmann decoder so that would be "DCC" equipped, all I did was put a decoder in the vandy tender (which had a 8 pin socket) and I was done no rewiring is required for the vandy short tender because it was made to be used with the 2-8-0.