DCC

[rookie]

Suppose a guy had a dc layout up and running, what would he have to do to convert it to DCC? It is it pretty simple or pretty complicated. I know about converting the engine or purchasing a new one. What about wiring, controls etc. Same ppk's ? Just wondering. thanks, david

[Doneldon]

Rook-

If your track and electrical systems are good right now a conversion to DCC is simple.  All you must do is replace your present power pack with the DCC system.  If you have multiple cabs and block wiring, just set all of the blocks to the same cab and replace that throttle with the DCC system.  You can leave everything else in place and revert to DC if you want for some reason.  Realistically, though, you will want to add feeder wire for your power as DCC likes good access to the track.

Be aware, however, that DCC won't fix problems you are already experiencing with your railroad, if any.  In some cases it might even make electrical problems worse.  So be sure you have a sound, smoothly-operating system before you make the conversion.

Good Luck!
                                                                                                            -- D

[CNE Runner]

Rookie - What D says is absolutely true...converting from DC to DCC couldn't be easier. Take special notice to his comments on having good electrical connections within your track work. DCC locomotives are very intolerant of any electrical 'breaks' and will stall - then restart (a very frustrating situation if it happens regularly).

When I built my last DCC layout (the Newburgh, Dutchess & Connecticut) I used 12 ga. house wire (Romex) and ran two wires (white and black) through some wooden blocks - glued to the underside of the benchwork for support. The track feeds (I believe every siding as well as every piece of flextrack should be fed) were attached to these buss-es using 3M Scotchlok #567 Insulated Connectors (sometimes called 'suitcase connectors'). The connectors can be had in lots of 100 at your local electrical jobber (or multiples of 25 from Micro Mark).

With good wiring and clean track you will have an enjoyable model railroad experience (not to mention all the bells and whistles that come with DCC). Trust me: I am currently using DC (2 - cabs) on my layout extension and it is driving me nuts! Go DCC before you have too much invested in your DC equipment.

Just my opinion,
Ray

[OldTimer]

Rookie,

You need to do your homework.  Each manufacturer has his own philosophy about DCC.  Some systems do little more than let one person run two trains simultaneously, while others not only allow the programming and reading of decoder registers called configuration variables  that control specific locomotive behaviors, but support enough throttles to keep a club happy and can keep track of where the trains are on the layout.  Some equipment only comes in sets, other makers sell "a la carte."  Throttles may be connected by wire, Infra-Red, or radio.  Prices for complete systems range from around $100 to more than $600 and extras can drive the price up farther.

If you have a LHS, perhaps you could get a demonstration of different brands.  If you belong to a club, you'll probably want to get a system that is compatible with what the club has.  If you have a friend that has a particular system, you might want to get the same type so your friend can help you out if you get stuck.

Most of all, you need to READ.  For starters, visit the web sites of all the manufacturers.  You can find EZ Command info from the red menu on the left of this page.  Other manufacturers include (but are not limited to) MRC, Digitrax, Lenz and NCE.  Several books are available, including a good introductory book from Kalmbach called The DCC Guide by Don Fiehmann.  Time spent researching now can save lots of time, money, and frustration down the road.  Hope this helps.
OldTimer

[Bucksco]

Excellent post Oldtimer!

[mf5117]

I posted a video of an HO layout I had made when I first started out about 3 yrs ago . I always hear and have read about feeder wires being installed on DCC layouts .I've never had any problems with stalls stops or Loco's not running properly . I run 3 to 4 strings and a couple of switchers , and they run fine . I do have a couple of  GP-40's that I put decoders in that I don't like how they operate . But I feel it is a quality issue . do we add the feeders for a safety or power issue due to size of the layout or is it just a common practice .as you know my layout is a 5x9 ft double oval with a few sidings ,2 crossovers . Just wondering 

[Doneldon]

mf-

It's sad but true that DCC won't make a troubled layout or loco run better or without problems.  If your other equipment runs satisfactorily the issue must be in the two Geeps so I'd start there.  You might want to try removing your decoders and tuning the locos until they run very well.  Then reinstall the decoders.  Good luck.
                                                                                        -- D

[Jim Banner]

I do have a couple of  GP-40's that I put decoders in that I don't like how they operate . 

Might those have been Bachmann diesels?  And might you have installed non-Bachmann decoders in them?  If so, did you cut out the capacitors?  The capacitors can cause silent decoders by other manufacturers to operate erratically.

Jim

[mf5117]

Hi Jim , no I didn't cut them out .And yes they are Bachmann diesels . I didn't know that would cause a problem with performance . Actually it's a couple of old  dc gp-40's I put decoders and beacon  lights in . Thanks for the info .
regards : Mark F