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traction tires

Started by jettrainfan, July 31, 2010, 05:06:50 PM

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jettrainfan

I'm working on a...mini overhaul.  The engine is a ihb(don't have the box so not sure) atsf S1 or2or3or 4 (I know ny classes but I got it off E-bay last year) before anyone goes "its not worth it" (don't waste time  ;) ) I'm a huge switcher fan and if I got a switcher, I'll go the extra mile to fix it to running order. Its not gaining any traction. I showed my dad and he said "are you sure its not doing a burnout?" (Drag race term) My grandpa mentioned weights but I want this engine to pull freight cars in the staging yard and such (5-8 cars average) so the GE70-ton can do local switching. When looking at the info, their are different sizes. Does anyone know what size I'd need? Can't measure the wheels at the moment but can later if needed.
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Doneldon

jtf-

You need special wheels with a slot for the traction tire, in addition to the tire itself.

                                                                                        -- D

jonathan

JTF,

I share your attraction to switchers.  I have a few old ones, and a few new ones. 

This is just my opinion, so no offense taken if you ignore it.  I believe the traction tire effort will prove to be pretty expensive--a case of the juice not being worth the squeeze.

I know those S switchers have very little room on the inside, but I think adding a little weight will be much easier, more economical, and more successful than the traction tire plan.  I know most hobby stores have those little flat weights that break off like a Hershey bar.  I think the pine car racer section (for the local cub scouts) usually have some kind of flat weights for adding to their downhill racers.

Remember, you only want to be able to move a few cars around.  So it won't take much to get the loco there.  Just some food for thought.

Regards,

Jonathan

CNE Runner

JTF - Another possibility is the use of Bullfrog Snot. This product is touted as being able to dramatically increase the traction of locomotives that aren't equipped with traction tires. Walthers has it on sale until the end of August [Item #174-1 @ $21.98]. You may want to check other sources for a better price. I would imagine the 1oz can will last you a very long time.

Ray
"Keeping my hand on the throttle...and my eyes on the rail"

OldTimer

I'm not a big traction tire fan, either.  They produce wobble, but worse, they inhibit electrical contact.  Just out of curiosity, have you cleaned the wheels?
OT
Just workin' on the railroad.

richg

Quote from: CNE Runner on August 01, 2010, 09:48:37 AM
JTF - Another possibility is the use of Bullfrog Snot. This product is touted as being able to dramatically increase the traction of locomotives that aren't equipped with traction tires. Walthers has it on sale until the end of August [Item #174-1 @ $21.98]. You may want to check other sources for a better price. I would imagine the 1oz can will last you a very long time.

Ray

http://www.bullfrogsnot.com/pages/How_to.html

This has been mentinoned in the Model Railroader magazinw forum, www.Trains.com, quite a lot. Better than traction tires.

Rich

mabloodhound

Yup, definitely what Ray and Rich said, go with Bullfrog.
Dave Mason

D&G RR (Dunstead & Granford) in On30
"In matters of style, swim with the current;
in matters of principle, stand like a rock."   Thos. Jefferson

The 2nd Amendment, America's 1st Homeland Security

jward

jet

i know this is not what you wanted to hear, but.......

it sounds like what you have is an old ahm "alco 1000" which was based on the alco s2. these locomotives, as with much of the ahm diesels, had a 3 pole motor with the shaft mounted vertically, with the worm gear driving the axle gears directly. this is a cheap motor driving the axle with NO gear reduction, and as a result there is no practical way to make this into a good running locomotive. add to that the fact that it has traction tires, and deep flanges on the wheels.......

i agree with you about switchers. they are neat locomotives. the alco s2 and s4 were personal favourites, with their distinctive whistling chug.

that said, may i suggest the following options?

1. athearn sw7 or sw1500. you will find this locomotive marked both ways on the box, and it is not to be confused with the later sw1500. the one i am talking about is a model of the classic emd switcher of the 1940s and 1950s. it comes in both cow and calf (b unit) versions and it is a much better runner than tanything ahm put out.. being an older model, the hoods aren't to scale, but if you don't mind that you can find them pretty cheap at train shows.


2. the atlas s2/s4. these can also often be found for a good price on ebay. this is by far the best running switcher i've ever owned, and i picked mine up for under $50.

3. the lifelike s1/s3. it can also often be found at train shows for modest cost, or bid on at ebay. i have one which runs slower than my other switchers. i think mine has a weak motor, you might have better luck than i did. the proto 2000 line has a good reputation.


all of the above, can be converted to dcc relatively eaasy, though none are a simple plug and play install. they can also be easily converted to knuckle couplers easily as well, if they don't al;ready have them. and the atlas units in particular will pull pretty much whatever you put behind them, especially on your level railroad.

understand that i know what it's like to have little to spend on the trains, i am in the same boat.  i am also familiar with the futility of trying to make the old ahm locomotives into solid performers. trust me, you'll be much further ahead parking this locomotive and getting something that won't give you fits.....
Jeffery S Ward Sr
Pittsburgh, PA

jettrainfan

In that case, i'll save my money, i found one last clip from my old stash and it was in bad shape(tape was found under the printer) and it showed how i used to run it which surprised me quite a bit, putting it with the 0-4-0 on DCC. and another thing i found was the original paperwork for a roster/train list that had lists of trains i ran and it had the GP9M with it too with some reefers. Personally i thought it would not work but i tried both and worked like a charm! Ran  it for 5-8 minutes on each train and the motor wasn't warm for both runs, no problems, stalls, or anything. Maybe in the future i'll fix it up the best i can but it seems to have some help for now...  :)

thanks for the info!
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RBMN #425 Fan

another thing you can do is go to your local orthadontist and ask for a pack of braces rubber bands they are the perfect size for diesels and they work well as the ones you can buy from your local hobby shop, and they are very low priced! i got a pack of 250 for free!!!!!!!!! :) ;) :D ;D :)
BRING BACK THE 425!!!!!
(or 2102. or finish the 113!!!!)

jward

those walthers trainline engines like your gp9m are a steal. i bought my son an amtrak f40ph at the trainshow, and a new haven alco fa1 for myself, for $15 apiece. the f40ph pulled 12 cars up a 4% grade with 18" turns, and came back for more. now i am curious as to just how much it CAN pull....

our first trainline locomotive, a gp9m, was pretty easy to put a decoder in.

those locomotives are probably the best bang for the buck, with the bachmann dcc on board units a close second.
Jeffery S Ward Sr
Pittsburgh, PA

jettrainfan

now you see why im practically in love with mine! ;D
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