Converting a 2-8-0 to an 0-8-0?

[jonathan]

I have been considering taking the pony truck off one of my Spectrum Connies, making it an 0-8-0 switcher.  While it sounds simple at first, I am wondering what else I might need to do to get it more prototypical.

Will I need to shorten the pilot in some fashion?  The current pilot will look a bit too long, I think, if I put the loco back on the track without the lead truck.

Anyone ever done this?

I'm sure the loco will run well, just wondering how funky it will look.

The real advantage to the modification being I can use it on the point-to-point part of my layout.  It will work on the 9" turntables without the pony truck.  

I notice the steps to the boiler walkway come off pretty easily, too.  Hmmm

Regards,

Jonathan

P.S. The other difference appears to be the headlight.  The 0-8-0s on NE Rails have headlights moved near the top of the smoke box.

Ooh, I just found a former 2-8-0, converted to a B&O 0-8-0, with the headlight in the center of the smoke box, steps still attached, AAAND being used as late as 1957!

http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/bo/bo-s1704.jpg

Things are looking up.

[J3a-614]

Not only can you do it, the prototype roads did it too, and one that did more than most in this line was the B&O!

Engines of 0-8-0 type on the B&O were in class L, and most of those were former 2-8-0s in class E, typically E-24 and E-27.  

From Northeast Railfan, the 2-8-0 page:

http://www.northeast.railfan.net/bo_steam2.html

Some sample E-24 photos; this series started as a copy of Pennsylvania's H-6 2-8-0, complete with squared Belpaire firebox (the PRR controlled the B&O for a while), and retained major dimensions with its Pennsy counterpart to the end, although appearance changed dramatically after 30 years of rebuildings the way the B&O did things:

http://www.northeast.railfan.net/images/bo2259s.jpg

http://www.northeast.railfan.net/images/bo2232s.jpg

http://www.northeast.railfan.net/images/bo2315s.jpg

A couple of rebuilds as 0-8-0s, note the changes included shortening the frames at the front, a second sand dome at the rear for back-up moves, and a change in valve ger to long-frame Baker:


http://www.northeast.railfan.net/images/bo1027s.jpg

http://www.northeast.railfan.net/images/bo1008s.jpg

Class E-27:

http://www.northeast.railfan.net/images/bo205sa.jpg

http://www.northeast.railfan.net/images/bo205s.jpg

Rebuilt E-27, as class L-2:

http://www.northeast.railfan.net/images/bo609s.jpg

http://www.northeast.railfan.net/images/bo609sa.jpg

Northeast 0-8-0 page:

http://www.northeast.railfan.net/bo_steam4.html

Check other photos, note the details (such as extra sand domes), and have fun!

[jonathan]

I modified my post above.  I found an 0-8-0 (former 2-8-0) that's still reasonably close to the original locomotive.  Looks like this could be done in stages:

1. Remove pony truck. Locomotive is still operable.

2. Slightly shorten the pilot (frame) and trim down the steps a bit. Looks like how they actually did it on the prototype.

3. Move the gizmo (can't remember the name) that's in front of the cab. Believe it was moved to the side of the boiler in reality.  A simple hole drilling could accomplish this.

4. Find, paint, and apply a third dome in front of the cab (the hard part).

Call me a little ignorant and naive. Didn't realize 0-8-0s were the offspring of 2-8-0s as the steam era came to a close. How convenient for me.  

Thanks, J3a.

Regards,

Jonathan

[J3a-614]

Well, that's one I didn't see.  And it's a Chicago Terminal engine at that.  Neat!

Some of these switchers were conversions, as you've noted, and roads that went in heavily for such conversions included the B&O, the Santa Fe, Southern Pacific, at least one class of camelbacks on the Reading, and I believe the Great Northern.

Others were built as such.  Life-Like's USRA 0-8-0 is one such example, and in fact the prototype would become the standard for eight-wheel switchers built as late as 1953 (by and for N&W, of course), with the usual collection of refinements and detail changes individual railroads would make.

I might also mention that one switcher class the B&O had was the USRA 0-6-0, class D-30 on the B&O.  This engine is available as a very nice runner (if not the best puller) from Life Like, and is also available from Bachmann's standard line.  If I were to pick the Bachmann engine, I would get a "2-6-0" or "2-6-2" variant, which has the prototype's valve gear (it's missing on the 0-6-0 proper), and hunt around for a better tender. 

Otherwise, we'll be looking forward to your newest project.

I see only one problem, though--if you're like me, you'll want to get another 2-8-0 so you can have two of them again!

[jonathan]

Well, while I work out the particulars, an LHS just got a hold of a USRA 0-8-0 in brass.  I may go look at it next week.  I'm still nervous about brass.  It's from the seventies, needs a can motor, probably a gear box, and who knows what else (paint of course).  All this fun can be had for $200.  I found about a dozen name brands of folks who imported brass USRA 0-8-0s; some junk, some fixable junk, and some jewels (at jewel prices).  Modifying the Connie would certainly be less expensive, and I know I have a proven runner already.

Still I do like attempting to make something out of a potential diamond in the rough.

I did see the Pennsy 0-6-0 (or 2-6-0) with slope back tender at Hobbytown ( the Bachmann version).  It has the valve gear, but decidedly lacking in the detail department.  I've gotten use to the Spectrums.  Not sure I want to stray from that formula.  Can't beat the price though ($54).

Regards,

Jonathan

[Doneldon]

jonathan-

The Bachmann 0-6-0, Mogul and Prairie are all the same loco, just with extra trucks or not.  They are decent runners but lack detail.  I wouldn't think that would bother you a whole lot, however, judging by you efforts on the doxie.

One thing you will need to do is put a step pilot and a usable coupler on the front.  Road pilots weren't used on switchers for very good reasons, including employee satisfaction and safety.

                                                                               -- D

[BaltoOhioRRfan]

I remember reading somewhere B&O turned alot of 2-8-0's into 0-8-0 Road Switchers in some parts of the line.

[Woody Elmore]

Jon: find out the maker of the brass 0-8-0. Yes it will probably need a can motor but most of the time the gearboxes were okay. I used to put jeweller's rouge into the gearbox of any brass engine and run the engine run for a minute or two in both directions. The rouge would smooth out the gears. (I believe jewellers called it "lapping".) Once the rouge was removed and the gearbox greased, I never had trouble with gears on an import.

Motors and cold soldering joints are definitely issues with older brass.

On a plastic engine you could probably shorten the road pilot and make different footboards.

You'll need a decent switcher to move all those new Bachmann B&O hopper cars that I'm sure you'll acquirew.

[RAM]

I think the second sand dome had more to do with the fact that the yard locomotive has to stop and start all of the time where the road locomotive may have only had to stop and start four or five times on a run.

[Woody Elmore]

The sand has to be deposited in front of the driving wheels. Going in reverse the last set of drivers doesn't have sand in front. Thus the need for a second dome.

By the way, my comments about using jewller's rouge applies only to metal gerars - that should be obvious but I wouldn't want someone tearing up their plastic gears.

[Doneldon]

jonathon-

I won't tell you why, but go to:

http://cgi.ebay.com/HO-SCALE-PFM-BRASS-PARTS-LOT-B-O-DOCKSIDE-SWITCHER-/190419583092?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Model_RR_Trains&hash=item2c55e44074

                                                                                      -- D

[jonathan]

D,

What immediately came to mind was setting up my own dockside factory, rebuilding nothing but 0-4-0s.  I wonder if they would sell?  Talk about a niche market.  I may be in a tiny club of docksider fans.  As I have discovered, ground clearance is a real issue.  Strange for such a small engine...

Woody,

In case I take the plunge and take on a brass loco... is jeweller's rouge an easy thing to find?  Probably not a Target or Walmart item I'll bet...

Regards,

Jonathan

[Woody Elmore]

I got my rouge years ago from a jeweller's supply house. It was a time before the internet (yes, there was a time before the internet) and I got  the address from an article about getting brass engines to run better. I also ordered some nifty tools as well.

Today, many of the watch mechanisms are quartz so I doubt there's much call for rouge. It worked great with metal on metal gears. You can get a stick of red rouge (a life time supply) from Amazon for $3.99. I'm sure there are other vendors as well.  Just remember that most owners of brass engines were either happy or unhappy with the way they ran and were not going to start playing with gearboxes. My friends and I were not scared away by removing tiny metric screws!

Concerning the Ebay ad - didn't you want a mate for #98? Wasn't there a #99? You do want to be prototypical. The question is what to do with all those Varney motors. They were pretty crappy when new. The valve gear is the only thing of any value in the group of stuff.

[ebtnut]

The guys at Peach Creek Shops converted a Bachmann Connie into an
0-8-0 for their steel mill display layout.  In essence they did as suggested above - remove the pilot truck, shorten the frame, and add a second sand dome.  Looks real nice.  The minor prototype issue with some of these conversions is that the drivers were generally larger than a typical switcher, meaning they tended to be a bit "slippery".  Not enough of an issue in most cases where it was much cheaper to have the road shop do the conversion than have to buy new locos.  As for brass models, one decent model of the USRA 0-8-0 was made by Akane in serveral different prototype detailing schemes.  B&O never had any USRA 0-8-0's, being content with their E-24 and E-27 conversions. 

[Joe323]

The Bachmann 0-6-0, Mogul and Prairie are all the same loco, just with extra trucks or not.  They are decent runners but lack detail.  I wouldn't think that would bother you a whole lot, however, judging by you efforts on the doxie.

Forgive my lack of knowledge on this but does this mean that my Bachmann 2-6-2 Prairie would be an OK runner if I removed the front and back trucks and ran it as an 0-6-0 It seems like the front wheels like to derail on the frogs of turnouts.