E-Z Mate Couplers

[ABC]

Are we discussing EZ Mate or EZ Mate Mark II couplers which have little metal springs and seem more durable then the original EZ Mate?  Not that it matters that much as either would be better than the horn hook couplers as I have discovered the hard way.

In my experience Bachmann E-Z Mate and McHenry (and Life Like Scenemaster & IHC knuckle couplers, pretty much anything not metal) couplers absolutely need replaced as they couldn't stay coupled for 30 seconds. E-Z Mate Mark II couplers are okay only if your train consists of no more than 5 cars, and mine usually have at least 40. However I body mounted some long shank ones to my IHC Erie passenger set and they failed horribly even with only 3 or 4 cars and not even the full consist. I stick with Kadee #5's, Kadee #148's and Proto Max standard coupler. Note that this Proto Max couplers differ significantly from the Proto 2000 couplers which also will fail because they are plastic without a metal spring. Proto Max couplers are Kadee #5 clones and are all metal including the spring and have a brass centering spring and identical draft gear boxes as well (they are completely interchangeable).

[Joe323]

Are we discussing EZ Mate or EZ Mate Mark II couplers which have little metal springs and seem more durable then the original EZ Mate?  Not that it matters that much as either would be better than the horn hook couplers as I have discovered the hard way.

In my experience Bachmann E-Z Mate and McHenry (and Life Like Scenemaster & IHC knuckle couplers, pretty much anything not metal) couplers absolutely need replaced as they couldn't stay coupled for 30 seconds. E-Z Mate Mark II couplers are okay only if your train consists of no more than 5 cars, and mine usually have at least 40. However I body mounted some long shank ones to my IHC Erie passenger set and they failed horribly even with only 3 or 4 cars and not even the full consist. I stick with Kadee #5's, Kadee #148's and Proto Max standard coupler. Note that this Proto Max couplers differ significantly from the Proto 2000 couplers which also will fail because they are plastic without a metal spring. Proto Max couplers are Kadee #5 clones and are all metal including the spring and have a brass centering spring and identical draft gear boxes as well (they are completely interchangeable).

Quite possible however since my trains generally do not exceed 5 or 6 cars (Due to the size of my layout) I'm going to stick with the Mark II for now,  I just picked up the last few I need to convert the last of my horn hooks.  So far I have yet to have problems.

[riff99]

Oldtimer, that was gonna be my question after your directions to find these #20 couplers Doneldon suggested.  I did follow your directions to a "T" but I was lost as to what I needed; center, undershank, long....noooo clue.  I assume center would do the trick as the EZ Mate (not II) couplers I have on the GP 40 do currently line up with the car that follows it.  I'm scared to try two engines consisting together with the loose in and out issue it has with the mount, but when I get those sleeves (I think that's what'll do the trick) that should stabilize the coupler.  However, when I go to change over five other new cars with their truck mounted couplers, this is where I assume I need the track gauge.  Do I measure the height of a freight car which hasn't had any issues with coupling?  Then use that height for the new cars?  A track gauge seems too complex (to a newbie) when you would think you could measure with any ruler.  That idea probably freaks out the pros of this hobby, but I guess until I actually own a track gauge and see how it works, then the ruler seems to be my only recourse.  But as richg said, I have to have a little patience with getting this done.  But the patience in understanding the multitude of couplers had me stopped dead cold.  I feel I'm going to be buying non stop couplers until I finally find the right ones, and as I look in my wallet and the moths fly out, that's just not a reality.  So I pretty much gotta be dead on the first time.  I'm pretty sure, from Doneldon, that I want the #20 coupler but as for which one, after following Oldtimers lead, I'm completely lost.  All I know is I want Kadee couplers on these cars.

So, as I patiently go, find a track gauge first and measure something...it's a start....sorta  

[OldTimer]

Try the center-set medium length shank.  If that is too low, try the underset shank...too high?  Use the overset shank.  This is not rocket science.

The gauge is not a track gauge, but rather a coupler gauge.  Go back to the Kadee site and you'll see what it looks like.  Not at all complicated.  One end has a coupler set at the right height, and a shelf to check the uncoupling pin height.  The other end has a shelf that you can use to determine if your floor height is correct before you mount your new coupler draft gear box.

[riff99]

ok then, I'll get over there and check out a coupler gauge.  Thank you!