E-Z Command DVD engines and cars

[riff99]

Well....it seems to have adapted quite well, I think.  "Better than the DVD!", my son actually said.  Man, THAT was worth it for that comment.  The only problem, how to get couplers on it.  Newer version is definitely different than its predecessor in that respect.

I'm a terrible videographer as well but this is the engine finally in DCC...


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G5JRPYtNSEM

[mattyg1306]

You will prob need to do some creative work with a handy dandy utility knife...you're right, the ends of the shell frame are molded differently.  It prob won't be as difficult as you might think, but this is something you might not want to do with your son nearby since it involves a knife (unless its just that the coupler is too short...you might just need to get some couplers with a longer shaft...I saw your vid but I can't tell which problem you have.). 

If I'm misunderstanding the problem, please let me know...

[riff99]

yes, that I did (have the utility knife at the ready).  Seems I was able to extract the coupler boxes that were screwed into the main chassis.  There was no where on screw it in on the new shell, so I just grabbed some modeler's cement and did my best to get in to stick (literally).  I'll leave it the night and maybe longer to let it set.  Looks good but I'm afraid of the height of it.  It might be fine but we'll wait to see so when the time is right.

The video was just me showing that I actually got the new shell to fit well and to prove it is a Red & Silver GP 40 in DCC mode.  She ran pretty well, IMO.  Sorry, I should have zeroed in on the coupler issue as that seemed like the only problem left.  I was just happy she was running.  You should've seen the smile on a certain 5 yr old.  Priceless!!

[ABC]

For the future purchase a coupler height gauge and NMRA standards gauge.

[Michigan Railfan]

yes, that I did (have the utility knife at the ready).  Seems I was able to extract the coupler boxes that were screwed into the main chassis.  There was no where on screw it in on the new shell, so I just grabbed some modeler's cement and did my best to get in to stick (literally).  I'll leave it the night and maybe longer to let it set.  Looks good but I'm afraid of the height of it.  It might be fine but we'll wait to see so when the time is right.

Does modelers cement come off easy? You should hope it does. If the coupler were to break, or like you said, the height isn't right, you need to get he coupler box off and replace and/or make adjustments. Also, your layout's looking pretty good so far. 

[OldTimer]

Kadee packages a #50 drill bit and a 2-56 tap in one envelope.  This combination will allow you to use a pin vise to drill a hole in a plastic shell and then tap it to accept a screw to secure your draft gear box.  Kadee also makes delrin (a type of plastic)  2-56 screws.  In my experience, the #50 drill bit is just a whisker too small to be held tight in a 1/4" drill chuck.  To drill metal, you can use a variable speed Dremel tool or get a special chuck that will fit an electric drill/screw driver.

Not recommended, but a 1/16" drill bit is just close enough to a #50 that in a pinch you can use a 2-56 tap in a 1/16" hole and get enough thread to hold the screw. 

[mattyg1306]

I don't have any Bachmann DCC diesel locomotives (I decided to stick with DC...for me, it was easier to stick with it since I literally have 200 DC locomotives...and I now appreciate the "bigger and better" DCC because it caused prices to fall on DC; also if i ever want a DCC loco, it will still operate on my DC layout, but I don't think it works the other way  ), so I guess I don't totally understand the problem.  Are you saying that the coupler box was actually mounted to the DCC shell?  I hate locos like that because they have trouble keeping coupled to cars when they hit curves.  I think OldTimer's method is probably the best solution here, although some super glue, raw plastic, and your extracted coupler box could do the trick (an older gentleman from whom I acquired a large portion of my collection had a way of using card stock to make the coupler boxes fit to anything...he actually placed an operating coupler on a locomotive that had a dummy coupler...really knew his way around things!) .  To figure the best height, you could always just put the engine against a freight car and compare to find where it should be located. 

Unfortunately, I never imagined this problem...I can't believe Bachmann would do something so strange as to mount the couplers to the plastic...I thought only other inferior brands did that.   

I'm glad your son was happy with the new shell as is...at least you won't have to worry about fixing it again if it doesn't work out!  Good luck!     

[Doneldon]

riff -

Don't glue coupler pockets on.  It's well worth the additonal time it takes to use screws.  If you feel you must save time, skip the tap and use self-tapping screws.
                                                                                                   -- D

[mattyg1306]

To clarify, I actually only meant to glue the base of the coupler box to the locomotive, NOT glue the cover so that there's no access to the coupler if ever it needs replaced.  I can't really think of any reason NOT to glue the base to the locomotive, I would think it would be sturdier that way, especially after you screw the coupler in.  There really isn't any reason you would ever need the base to be loose again, unless you're scrapping the loco for parts or something.

Use your own judgement though.   

[Doneldon]

matty -

Gluing makes it impossible to add shims to adjust coupler height.
                                                                                              -- D

[riff99]

I know this next part was a little more expensive sort of ($15 for 12 sets), but I recently purchased some different positioned ez couplers.  1 pack centered medium, 1 under medium, and centered long. I just felt I wasn't good at adjusting these, so I try a lower coupler which usually helps things out.

Back to the train thesaurus...what's a shim?   

btw, tried the engine this morning with the cement holding its own.  Now it pulled 1 car a few times around, then 2 cars, then 5.  She did very well!!  I wish I had a place to place the odd 300k pic to, but to describe how the coupler mounts are placed into their new homes, well it was almost meant to be placed there.  Between the underside of the front and back part of the shell and the solid metal chassis is the perfect amount of room to cement the bottom side of the coupler mount that I unscrewed from the DC chassis.  The cement seems to keep them in there solid, plus the fact that they're pinned between the front and rear ends on the underside part of the shell and the metal chassis; they're going no where.  Picture an "L" upside down with the top of the the L being the bottom end of the coupler mount glued down, the bottom part sticks out the front and rear of the shell just as it did when screwed to its other chassis.  Trust me, there is NO place to screw in any part of them.  Where it sits currently glued to the shell, it's very thin from the underside of the shell to the upper part.  If you screw it on, it goes right through the shell with two screw ends showing up in front of the cab and rear, no matter how small the screw.  Not good.  Cementing the piece in was my only option.  I'm satisfied how it ended up.  Now to find these darn adapters to compensate for the much bigger holes on the ez mate couplers that keep the coupler in place.  Seeing them sliding in and out makes me cringe.

Now, the test of time to see if these couplers hang tough....

yeah matty, the couplers mount directly in the front and rear of the original blue and yellow shell for the DCC GP 40.  Not great but maybe a bit better than cement   

[mattyg1306]

Well, I'm glad it worked out to your satisfaction.  btw, i believe the "shims" that Doneldon was referring to are the "cardstock" pieces that I mentioned...they are thin and allow you to adjust the coupler height in small millimeter increments when its necessary, but if it works how you have it, I wouldn't worry about it.

[Joe323]

Doneldon--

Personally I don't think 6067 has been done in DCC for public purchase, the locos on the video were probably built as test dummies with whatever shells they had laying around...if riff really wants that exact loco #, then he will have to try and make it work.

I believe that is correct on the DVD somewhere I remember it said that the EZ Command shown was a pre production model, so it would not surprise me to find out that the trains shown were also pre production or test models.  However the only different I saw in the DVD and the EZ command I own is that the throttle knob is dark grey on my unit and not light grey as in the video.

[riff99]

That's hilarious because my son spotted that right off too...as usual I had no clue about the knob

[Doneldon]

riff -

Shims are very thin (like typing paper) pieces which are used to match the heights of couplers on different cars.  Proper coupler height is critical to reliable operation.  Note that the shims actually lower the height of the coupler because you are building down from the bottom of the car.  One raises couplers by adding shims (thin washers) between the truck bolster (mounting) pad and the top of the truck.

More generally, shims can be used anywhere to adjust clearances or whatever.  Their use, and the term, are not limited to model railroad coupler pockets or model railroading.  For example, your car probably has many shims in places like front end parts, body mounts, hinges and so on. 

                                                                      -- D