E-Z Command DVD engines and cars

[riff99]

Sorry guys...first time back.

I'll for sure look for a tsunami sound decoder.  Got a few pennies to save I see.  But I'll definitely go with what's recommended.  Heck, that's why I got on here.  To hear what the experts have to say.

Thank You also Blink_182_fan.  Great finds there!!

I may get some help with this from a family member visiting soon.  He's good with soldering and what-not.  Just gotta follow what ABC, Doneldon, and Stephen's instructions here to the "T".  Tender screws found under tender for future work.  Holes to be on the bottom...check.  I'll see what I can do to make this enclosure happen. Great advice, thank you!  I just needed to know the correct tools to get this done.  Circle speaker should be fine should be easiest to find locally.

Two more questions please.

I see a BUNCH of Tsunami decoders.  Do I want/need to have that heavy steam one for the 2-10-2?  Also, we have Bachmann FT-A DCC EQUIPPED & a FT-B DCC EQUIPPED engines, that I'd really like sound in as well.  Do I need two decoders for both A & B units, and if so, can you please tell me what Tsunami Decoder to look for.  I always wanted one of these two tandem diesel sets, and I want it to sound as good as it looks.  (if that's possible)

Thanks again good people!  My best to you!  Keep 'er on the rails...

[ABC]

The Bachmann FT-A/B's are not an easy install for a beginner because there is not an 8/9-pin socket and there is not enough room for a good quality speaker and baffle. But, what you can do is hard wire the decoder to the lead unit and permanently latch it to the B unit which you can remove the motor from to free up space for a nice sized speaker, then for extra pulling power you can add another A unit to the rear if necessary. To hard wire the decoder you'll need a soldering iron, solder/resin/flux, and a good knowledge of the locomotive. You will need to remove the board from the loco to install your new sound decoder.
My advice is to see if you can find a friend with experience hard-wiring DCC to guide you through your first time, if that is not possible hold off until you get a little more familar.

[Doneldon]

riff -

I think what ABC means is get a dummy A-unit and swap the shell with your powered B-unit.  Then you'll have the entire empty B-unit for sound and the two powered, DCC-equipped A-units with no need to putz with decoders at all. 

You should have an easy sound install in the empty B-unit.  You might consider multiple speakers, oval speakers to maximize sound quality or base reflex speakers to accentuate lower frequencies.  I'm not so sure you'll be happy with the results of putting sound in both A-units as you'll be eating amperage so fast that you might only be able to run those two locos before you overload your system.  And I don't think you'll see a substantial improvement in overall sound with multiple sound units.  Just my observation.

                                                                               -- D

[riff99]

Ready and willing to adventure into new territory here.  Great info ABC & -- D 

I've started a search for a Dummy FT-A preferably in my Burlington colors, but I seem shut out in any search I try.  Any ideas for places to find FT-A Dummy engine?  I'll keep a lookin'.

Does an FT-A Diesel have a preferred Tsunami sound decoder I should look to buy?  There seems to be a bunch and I can only guess which one will sound most realistic for that era.

Thanks as always!!

[Doneldon]

riff -

I'd go to various manufacturers' web sites to see who has Q FTs.  Because of the huge number of railroads (well, years ago, anyway) many manufacturers only make certain road names, particularly for equipment which was as widely sold as were FTs.  After a while a manufacturer may discontinue some or all roadnames and have a new release of the same models with different road names.  Consequently, you may or may not find Q FTs as current merchandise.  Butour case,  the Q was a major Class 1 line so it has many followers.  That almost certainly means something as common as an FT is either a current or former offering.  So check manufacturer websites and Walthers to see if anyone is making Q FTs right now.  If not, check ebay, online train shops which may still have prior releases (it helps if you have a manufacturer's name and part number for what you want) and the used section of your LHS.  In your case, Bachmann has FT-Bs as current stock but it looks like only powered.  Stewart does make dummy FT-Bs for the Q.

As far as sound, get the loco first.  Sometimes decoders are optimized for particular locos; other times they are more generic.  Your best plan would be to identify the loco first.  Since it sounds like you have Bachmann FTs now, I'd second ABC and Steve Richards' suggestions of the Tsunami units.  If you are putting sound into a dummy FT-B, you can use anything because it won't have to interface with the motors in your A units.  You can use the same address for the sound decoder in the B as you use for the motion decoders.

Bachmann's Thomas the Tank Engine pedestrian overpass is current merchandise but at (ouch!) $30.00.

                                                                                      -- D

[riff99]

Wow...a "Q" FT now.  There is a TON of terminology going on in this hobby that I seriously have got to find a "Model Train" Thesaurus    I think I saw the word 'frog' in another post.  I believe that too was something I should've paid more attention  too, as I'm having a heck of a time with switch derailments and DCC switch shorts, but I didn't understand what was being said in that one post most of the time I read it.  But that's a future post I fear.  I at least now understand that a 'truck' has nothing to do with a Ford F-150.

I'll do some more searching for these Q FT's, Doneldon.  A wealth of info that I'll be printing off no doubt.  ABC's as well.  Thanks for that link, ABC, but that price tag is a touch over my budget.  Cool to know what you can find out there.  I'll keep looking.  And you're right...I'm no painter!

Thank you for finally letting me know about a Tsunami sound decoder for this unit.  It sounds like there's a lot more range in choices than with the 2-10-2.  I'll look into that when a 'Dummy' (another hilarious term) is located.  I love this hobby!!  I knew I'd eventually get to know a new language one day!!

Cheers, Gents!

[Michigan Railfan]

Riff, a frog on a switch is sort of the middle piece of a switch. It's hard to explain. Maybe someone else here can explain it pretty well. With Bachmann switches, the frog is the plastic black piece where the track begins to seperate. Many people have had problems with shorter wheelbased engines, as the frog is "insulated" which means that no power runs through it, in which shorter wheelbased engines cannot pickup power from them, and sometimes stall.
Also, that's pretty funny about how the trucks on cars and engines don't have to do with F-150's

[Doneldon]

riff -

The terminology is just one of many facets of this hobby.  For me, it's the variety of things to do and skills to master which distinguish model railroading from other hobbies.  It's not enough to know how to assemble a model or paint it.  We also have to know how to plan and install suitable track, build models from many different materials, deal with electricity and, increasingly, electronics, use many different techniques and materials to join pieces of our models, make scenery, paint with different techniques and equipment on a range of surfaces, do near micro-photography, do light (usually) carpentry, make minute adjustments to small but vital components like couplers and turnouts, and lots more.  There's just no excuse for becoming a bored model rail.
                                                                           -- D

[riff99]

ABC, I see another new Burlington DCC-equipped FT-A out there for a good price.  I might just scoop that up and make it a secondary engine after the FT-B.  I'm gonna see what's involved in removing everything but the weights, as you mentioned, and maybe see if I can use it to upgrade a DC GP 40.  Then I hope to have the FT-B as my sound (gets more and more exciting as I just type this...whoa!).  This is brand spanking new territory (what else is new), but if I just note everything I do, I may just pull this off.  Fingers crossed....toes too!!

Doneldon...I'm nothing but a sincere fan those of you and other I've seen, that can take a simple train and make it come to life (more so than just turning a controller knob and letting it go).  I have nothing but praise as I watch these trains head out into a virtual countryside sometimes getting so into watching each units go through incredible mountain tunnel scenes or through a cityscape as cars wait to carry on with their day.  I rarely think of all the hours, day, weeks encompassed to make this all happen.  The planning, painting, suitable track for every occurrence as you mentioned.  It's practically art.  Maybe one day I'll create something a tenth a good as some of the things I've witnessed, but to get there, my terminology lapse is the least of my worries.  Just figuring out our simple carpet set is daunting enough.  Constant derailments, coupler issues, lack of CV understanding.  We all have to start somewhere with these layouts, understanding a good layout verses one that seems to cause endless headaches.  I AM hooked to the hobby but it's too easy at times to walk away when the frustration level is beyond attaining the enjoyment I expect every time I hook up a new train on a new day.  I look forward to when this kind of setup is in the rear view mirror and I can start a new level of reality with fine hobby.  Lots of learning first though.  I guess getting some 'frog' help is a step in the right direction 

Thank you all again!

[CJCrescent]

Wow...a "Q" FT now.  There is a TON of terminology going on in this hobby that I seriously have got to find a "Model Train" Thesaurus   
Cheers, Gents!

Riff;

Kinda surprised this hasn't been mentioned as yet, but here goes my 2 cents worth!

For great information, and even a glossary of terms, one website you should look in to is the NMRA, the National Model Railroader Org at www.nmra.org.

One the left hand side of the page under "Education" is a beginners guide. This is something that everyone new to the hobby should read. Also on that page is a section labeled "Community". Under that is Regions and Divisions. Here you can find the NMRA division that you are located in with contact information. This can lead you to local folks who may be willing to assist you with your projects.

[riff99]

Okay...heading that way right now.  I hope more beginners see your message.  Thank You!!

Finally got the lid off this B-Unit, and man, I have NO IDEA what to do next  HA!!  (I laugh because I want to cry).  Doesn't seem like a lot of room for nothing.  Think I'll find someone local to take this stuff out for me, but I'd LOVE to be by their side to see how they do it.  Wow, nothing like opening an older DC.  I'm gonna quietly reattach this lid now, then back away slowly from it.

[mattyg1306]

I haven't read every single post here so forgive me if I'm repetitive...

riff99, its EXTEMELY hard to believe that you can't find the Santa Fe engine...when I was younger (mid 1990s) it seemed to me like red and silver Santa Fe engines (along with yellow and grey Union Pacific) were the only HO engines available, and being a kid on the East Coast, that was very disappointing to me, lol.  I would have given anything for a B&O, Chessie, or WM engine back in those days (I always figured people on the west coast received east coast road names while we received only west coast road names...what's bad, I'm probably right about that!).  I guess times change, though, don't they?

Anyway, is the engine number you are looking for #6067?  If so, I HAVE IT!  It was the second engine I ever owned, and came in a trainset called "Thunderbolt", I believe.  It is NOT, however, DCC.  I suspect many of those engines in that video have hoods from earlier locomotives, as I also own many of the cars from various other train sets I bought over the years as well.  Bachmann didn't used to change their road numbers very much, but nowadays it seems they change them every year or so (just how many different numbered WM consolidations are out there now?  I have three, lol.).  Because of this fact, I'd say a used #6067 should be a piece of cake to find...although it was built as DC, I'm sure it would be simple to buy one for cheap and then switch out the hood onto a DCC equipped base, right (I think they're interchangeable aren't they?)?  In fact, here's a link to one on eBay right now: 

http://cgi.ebay.com/Bachman-Santa-Fe-Diesel-Electric-Loco-6067-2880-/250640139015?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Model_RR_Trains&hash=item3a5b510307

Happy railroading...good to know we have another up and coming railfan in our midst.  Starting him out early...he'll be a lifer!  

[Doneldon]

Matty -

It makes sense that loco shells would be interchangeable, especially for units from the same manufacturer, but that's not always the case.  The works get redesigned from time to time so you just can't be sure.  Thankfully, it's usually not very difficult to adapt shells to fit frames other then their original frame.

                                                                                                -- D

[mattyg1306]

Doneldon--

Personally I don't think 6067 has been done in DCC for public purchase, the locos on the video were probably built as test dummies with whatever shells they had laying around...if riff really wants that exact loco #, then he will have to try and make it work.

[riff99]

Exactly...I'll find a way to make it work.  I did purchase one 4 days ago here:

http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150454518749&ssPageName=STRK:MEBDIX:IT

I thought I couldn't really go wrong with that price tag.  If the shell transfers over to the DCC GP40, like I heard it should, then life is grand.  If not, I'll try to see what's involved to make it happen.  <shudders>

I hope Doneldon is correct about adapting shells.  I do care about all this, or else I wouldn't have purchased the DC, but if it doesn't then I'm fine with that because I did get the best advice here than I ever would have figured out on my own.

One happy camper!!  TY!!