Changing hooks.

[jward]

i have been model railroading for about 40 years now.

ready to run cars have always been around, but until recently they were of very inferior quality. i suspect these are the cars you have.

the problem with older cars is that in addition to having truck mounted couplers which are a problem to convert, they also usually have wheelsets that aren't rp25 spec. these have "pizza cutter" flanges and are much more prone to derailments. you'd want to replace those wheels. they also were usually grossly underweight, and you'd have to add weight to them to get them to run properly.

why is weight important? ever try to start a 20 car train on a curve? light cars can try to "stringline" and derail. also, having light cars mixed in with heavier cars in a train can cause problems with the light cars popping out of the train if you stop quickly.

as you can see, with those older ready to run cars the couplers are just the tip of the iceberg. the cars you buy to-day have the proper couplers, at the proper height. they also have rp25 wheels, usually metal, and are properly weighted as well. you can still buy kits by  athearn and others. these kits usually include knuckle couplers, but have plastic wheels and need a little extra weight. overall, these kits are a good buy especially compared to the old tyco, ahm and lifelike cars.....

[Michael T.]

Thanks.

[craftsmaster]

Is it possible to change the old coupling hook to the new one on train engines/rolling stock?

Most sets now come with a terminal section.  Armed with this, you'll have no problem getting the power you need to move your train through your layout.

[Michael T.]

Okay

[ABC]

Most sets now come with a terminal section.  Armed with this, you'll have no problem getting the power you need to move your train through your layout.

I'm 99.9% sure he was talking about couplers on his rolling stock.

[Johnson Bar Jeff]

the problem with older cars is that in addition to having truck mounted couplers which are a problem to convert, they also usually have wheelsets that aren't rp25 spec. these have "pizza cutter" flanges and are much more prone to derailments. you'd want to replace those wheels. they also were usually grossly underweight, and you'd have to add weight to them to get them to run properly.

It also didn't help if you were six years old and insisted on running your train like an Indycar. 

I can still remember Grandpa adding lead weights to the Revell freight cars from my first train set.

Ah, memories, memories. ...

[jward]

yeah, memories of the ""good old days".....looking back on the crappy equipment we had it's a wonder we had any fun, but we did......

my dad and i used to add steel weights inside gondolas and hoppers. we'd then fill the car with water and park it until  it evaporated. instant rusty interior.......

i remember the old ahm u25c. my grandfather had several, and like their prototype they'd pull whatever you put behind them. they were about as noisy as the real ones too.....

[Johnson Bar Jeff]

yeah, memories of the ""good old days".....looking back on the crappy equipment we had it's a wonder we had any fun, but we did......

Sure enough. All we had to do was run trains. We didn't have to worry about temperamental rolling stock that needed to be treated with kid gloves. All we had to do was crank the throttle and watch it go. 

[craftsmaster]

Most sets now come with a terminal section.  Armed with this, you'll have no problem getting the power you need to move your train through your layout.

I'm 99.9% sure he was talking about couplers on his rolling stock.

Yes I do. You have anything in mind? I'd rather go find some lilies. lol