Coupler Replacement

[raypro]

I recently purchased a Bachmann set with the EZ Mate couplers.  I also have some older Bachmann cars with horn hook couplers.  I want to replace them with the EZ Mate.  Is there a standard EZ Mate type or might each car be differant?

[raypro]

I wanted to add that there are no built in coupler pockets on these trains.  The coupler attachement is on the wheel assy.

[jonathan]

raypro,

If you are going to go with the EZmate couplers, may I suggest you use the EZmate Mark II couplers.  They have the metal spring on the knuckle.  They are very reliable, and very generally speaking, they will fit in just about any kind of coupler pocket.  If you plan to operate 20-car trains or less, they will work fine. 

If you plan on long trains (over 20 cars), you may want to consider Kadee metal couplers.  I use both kinds with success, but if I'm assembling long trains, everything will have the metal couplers to ensure no unwanted separation of cars during operations.

A coupler height gage (kadee offers one among a few others) will help you adjust the car height, so cars will couple reliably.  I've had very rare instances where I needed an overshank or undershank coupler.  Try the standard center shank first.

Regards,

Jonathan

[jonathan]

Oops, just saw your new post.  In truck mounted couplers (talgo), I cut off the coupler, and replace with Kadee couplers (with pockets included) mounted under the car body.  Provides more reliable operations.  The height gage is a must for this modification.

Regards,

Jonathan

[ABC]

Unfortunately, you cannot directly insert Bachmann E-Z Mate Couplers into talgo trucks, they will come out very quickly and be very unreliable because they were not designed for this application. If you all ready have enough spare Kadee coupler pockets then you can body mount your E-Z mate couplers inside the Kadee pockets.

[Joe323]

I asked about replacing the talgo (truck mounted) horn hook couplers with Kadee or bachmann couplers on the cheap Like Like rolling stock I have. My LHS owner responded that its nor worth the trouble that by time I did all that I could buy new rolling stock.  So I created a few transition cars with knuckle couplers at one end and horn hooks on the other.

So now I'm gradually replacing the cheap stuff with better stuff and by November the cheap stuff will be off to the church rummage sale along with some excess track and a few DC power packs I no longer need or use.  

[CNE Runner]

Raypro - I heartily agree with everything Jonathan said about EZmate II couplers (make sure they are EZmate II units and not just EZmate...which are all plastic and not very reliable). Just about all my couplers are EZmate IIs and I have yet to experience any problems (although I only run consists of 1 - 4 cars maximum).

As per Jonathan's advice: you will need a coupler height gauge (either Kadee #205 for $5.95 or Micro Mark's version #82824 at $8.95) But in addition to the coupler gauge, you will absolutely need a trip pin adjusting plier. I purchased mine from Micro Mark for $12.35 (#80600). Both of these tools are a one time investment. Oh, while you are at it, get yourself an NMRA scale gauge (Micro Mark #80752 @ $18.50). All of these tools can be had for a variety of prices from differing vendors.

Regarding the cutting off of truck-mounted couplers: This is an 'iffy' procedure that can yield mixed results. Usually one spends a fair amount of time cutting off the old coupler(s) and results can be less than desireable (then again who really looks underneath the car?). When all is said and done you end up with a cheap bolster holding cheap plastic wheels...there is a better way. I suggest that you replace the original trucks with one of better quality (such as Kadee et. al.). In this way one ends up with a quality bolster holding quality metal wheelsets.

Unfortunately, as Jonathan mentions, you still have to modify the car underbody in order to glue on a Kadee draft box (and install the coupler). Hopefully most of the cars, you need to modify, have body mounted couplers - making the switch easy. Personally I would only modify a car I: 1) had an emotional connection with, or 2) was special in some way and not easily replicated (such as a Tyco Heinz pickle reefer). In any rate...good luck!

Ray

[ABC]

Here's what I do to expand my fleet very economically, yet with metal wheels and couplers to boot. I let Walthers decide what cars I am going to buy for me somewhat. Then I go down to my Local Hobby Shop and tell him what to order, then when he receives the order (must be $150 or more) he'll lower the prices some, but still makes a decent profit. For example the 86 foot boxcars are $13.98 on Walthers, I paid $11.50. All the rolling stock I buy is on clearance and there is nothing wrong with it. They have Proto-Max Metal Knuckle Couplers and Metal Wheels, the Proto-Max Metal Knuckle Coupler were $8 for 4 pair (so $2 a pair) and the Walthers trucks are $5 for a pair and the wheels are 4 for $5, so if you do the math that is $12 worth of stuff the car already has that you don't have to buy.
Then you won't have to worry about replacing your talgo trucks ($5/pair) (and adding metal wheels ($5)) and mounting Kadee coupler boxes ($3) with Bachmann couplers ($1.80/pair). So say you bought a car with talgo trucks for $5 add $3 coupler boxes, $5 trucks, $5 metal wheels and $1.80 couplers, and it will cost you $20 total and you have to do the work(which may or may not be enjoyable for you).

[CNE Runner]

I think ABC makes a valid point: sometimes what seems to be the cheapest route - isn't. Sometimes it is best to scrap the old and buy new that is already 'up to standard'.

I guess it was a couple of years ago when I listed two used RIX uncoupling tools on eBay. The bidding started out at $3 and ended at $9...EACH! A brand new RIX uncoupling tool is listed in the 2010 Walthers catalog at a price of $3.99. The bidders paid a little more than twice the new price and still had to pay for shipping...'go figure.

A financially reasonable program of freight car replacement may be the best course of action in your case. Unless you have an inordinate number of cars, you would have a new fleet in no time - saving time, money and effort to boot.

Ray

[ABC]

Here's a link to a bunch of good cars that are on sale for about half off.
http://www.walthers.com/exec/search?manu=932&item=&words=restrict&split=60&category=Freight&scale=H&instock=Y&sale=Y&start=0
There are a few Bachmann cars on sale also, but this varies.

[Jhanecker2]

Raypro : A lot of good advice on the forum .  You can do it on the relatively cheap. The EZ mate II couplers will fit in the Talgo mount coupler pockets .  I know that Kadee makes a tool for installing adapters into old Bachmann  & LifeLike cars. You will definately need the  Coupler height gage , the pliers to bend the hooks to clear the track, the NMRA gage to make sure that your track is in gage . I would definitely replace the plastic wheels with metal . You might want to buy the reaming tool to reform the wheelset  pockets on the trucks.  Did it last year .  You will need    33" dia . for freight cars and 36" passenger cars , make sure the insulation on the wheelsets is properly aligned.   Good Luck John II

[Doneldon]

raypro -

I endorse the good advice and financial analysis you've received here.  Just don't be intimidated by all the talk and tools.  What the other posters are saying makes good sense and it will be less work than converting/upgrading everything.  Buy new at good prices, group your cheapies in threes or fours for sale on ebay and you'll be fine.  As for the tools, well, don't let that put you off either.  You'll want each of them sooner or later so it's not like you can ignore that expense if you don't upgrade.

Am I making sense?  I don't think so.  It's 5:00 am.  Goodnight, all.

                                      --D

[Joe323]

Well I did it I got rid of all my talgo horn hook cars and replaced the body mounted horn hooks with knuckle couplers.  it does make a big diffrence in performance.  Now to buy new rolling stock.