What is gap track?

[DrNickRiviera995]

Sorry, I'm new to Bachmann's track system.  But what exactly is gap track?  Is there a part number or place to buy it?  I see it mentioned alot in the EZ track guide book, but I don't see a part number or photo or anything.

I know back when I use to use O Gauge trains you had the plastic pins that you would replace the metal ones with to break stop the current.  I'm guessing gap track is something similar, but at my local Hobby Shop they didn't know what it was.  I thought maybee just pull off the joiners since the plastic base seems to keep the track together anyway, but is this correct or do I need to get a special joiner?

[ABC]

This is what it is referring to, part number 44597:

9" Power Terminal with Insulated Gap
Product Information
Nickel silver track with gray roadbed; 2 per card.
These track sections are required for construction and operation of a DCC reverse loop track configuration and other layouts requiring electrically gapped track. With easy-to-use swing-arm connectors, it can also be used to make undertrack power connections to your layout, eliminating messy wiring of some traditional terminal track sections.
Price: $30.00
Product Code: 44597

[OldTimer]

Thirty bucks?  You're kidding, right?

[DrNickRiviera995]

Oh ok, quite pricey, I remember seeing those but thought you only needed those if you were using DCC. 

Is that what I need for regular sidings and such?  I'm guessing it's insulated on just one end of the track?  I use to use Atlas connector switch boxes for operation of sideings in O Guage, will that work here?

[pipefitter]

That's MSRP... Your price may vary

http://www.trainworldonline.com/catalog/category/detail.php?id=4757&back_url=%2Fsearch.php%3Fbyitem%3D44597%26x%3D42%26y%3D8&find_section=176

[full maxx]

also try that auction site

[Jim Banner]

If the price seems a little steep, you can always gap one or both rails of a standard section of track.  Just cut through the rail(s) with an Atlas Hobby Saw or similar thin, fine toothed saw.  Do not cut the ties or the base - they are needed to keep the rail ends next to the gaps(s) properly aligned.  Fill the gap(s) with epoxy or ACC glue to prevent it (them) from closing up again. 

For a siding, you will need a switched connection to the gapped rail.  How you attach it is up to you - some people will use a connector section somewhere on the siding and hook up whichever of the two wires is needed.  Other people will simply solder a wire to the outside of the rail.

Jim

[Doneldon]

It's easy to cut a gap, as Jm says.  Alternately, you can use insulated rail joiners.  Sawing a gap is probably the easier choice.  I'm not sure why you want to isolate sidings unless you are going to store non-DCC locos there. 

[DrNickRiviera995]

Yup, pretty much so I can store Loco's on sideings.  I'm actualy doing a Thomas the Tank Engine layout, and I don't plan on using any DCC locos.  Sounds too complex to convert them myself and I'm sure it would cost an arm and a leg to get it done at a dealer.

I also wanted to be able to run 2 main lines independently but still have a connecting turnout between the 2 tracks.

The insulated track doesn't sound too bad, just a bit pricey.  The seller that I buy most of my Bachmann stuff through on ebay has them at $16 a package.  Too bad I just finished an order before I knew I needed them, wouldn't have cost me anything extra for the shipping.

[OldTimer]

See if you can find some sort of Introduction to Model Railroading book--Kalmbach has several--or an Atlas book of track plans.  You need to learn about common rail wiring for cab control.  You're already familiar with the Atlas "Connector" (3 spst switches).  Atlas makes several other control boxes (several electrical switches in one box) that support common rail.  The "Selector" (4 spdt switches) will be the most useful to you.  Common rail cab control using Atlas electrical components is the easiest way I know of to get independent control of two DC locomotives regardless of the brand of track you use.
Old Timer

[Woody Elmore]

If you cut a gap you can epoxy a piece of flat toothpick or some shim plastic in the cut.

[DrNickRiviera995]

Thanks for the help guys, I just ordered a pack of Atlas insulated joiners.  Hopefully that will do the trick.

I wish I actualy had a knowledgeable local shop to go to for advice, guy at Hobbytown USA didn't seem to be too knowledgeable about it. 

[ABC]

Hobby Town USA and Hobby Lobby do not count as LHSs (Local Hobby Shops) at least in my book. There is nothing local about them.

[DrNickRiviera995]

Agreed, I wasn't sure if Hobbytown was national or not, but I was sure it was at least a local chain of sorts. 

Local hobby shops are about gone around where I live, I use to have one right across the street practicaly but sadly they're now gone.  I guess this internet world is to blame.  I get all the big stuff at close to half off MSRP, but it's cool to go to a local place for small stuff or scratch supplies and knowledgeable advice.

[mattyg1306]

DrNick--

Are you doing a full "realistic" layout or just something to run your trains around?  I started out with Bachmann E-Z track when I was newer to the hobby just so that I could switch it around now and then without too much fuss.  HOWEVER, now that I have decided to do a more permanent layout (and it sounds like YOU are building a more permanent layout), I personally recommend obtaining Atlas "Flex-Track" (sorry, Bach Man)...it is easy to customize to whatever shape you want, and is relatively cheap compared to the Bachmann track that you CAN'T shape yourself (@ $19.95 for 5 3-foot sections which you can cut with heavy duty pliers and shape and curve as you want).  Atlas switches are also cheaper than their Bachmann counterparts.  You will also need to get some cork roadbed...which is also relatively cheap...I purchased an entire box for $19.95 with enough to do my ENTIRE 9x9 layout complete with sidings and spurs...and still have a few sections to spare!

As far as DC wiring goes, I was a novice when I started mine, but have learned a great deal just from putting it together over the past couple years.  The Atlas insulated rail joiners will work to separate the current(if you get the correct size...I made the mistake of getting Code 83 because they cost less but then they wouldn't fit because I have Code 100 track...I believe all of Bachmann's track is Code 100).  If you are using the same power pack for both tracks, I recommend using the "common rail" method...that is, you do NOT insulate one common rail on both tracks, and only "break" the other one to separate the current.  This is best if you are going to be installing toggle switches.  With the toggles, this will also allow you to break the track in many places such as sidings so you can stop a train without derailing it while running others on the mainline...all tracks running from the same power supply.  You can do this even if you decide to go with E-Z track.  You can buy spools of wiring at Radio Shack and a soldering iron and solder at Walmart to complete this task.  You will also need terminal blocks which can be found at online hobby retailers if not in stores.  It sounds complicated, but is very simple (you may already know this, though).  Let us know if you have any more questions or need me to clarify this.