Switch BumP

[OldTimer]

Bending the point rail will not solve your problem.  You need to file the point of the point off at about a 45 degree angle.....just a little of it.  File a little and then test.   And while you're at it, you might as well do them both.

[Bruce_Bennett]

I'm chicken!!  OK I'll try.  and to answer the last question there regular snap sw's.

Bruce

[pdlethbridge]

Okay, you're using snap switches. how do you throw them, manually or automatically? What kind of switch machine do you use?

[Bruce_Bennett]

It's an Atlas Snap Switch so it must be automatic! Sorry I just couldn't pass that one up! Anyway, You know it's hard to use a file down there in that track. Soooo I took out my niffty Dremal tool.  Using a carbide wheel, t'was easy to file that sucker down to needle point. So the outcome is the Shay is now making the turn about 80-85% of the time.  Is that OK? Sure is better that it was! I really want to thank you all again for all the help and stick-to-it-ness you showed me. I hope I can pay this forward some time in the future.  Oh, and if anyone happens to know about the next post I put up I'd sure like to hear about that!  Thanks again.

Bruce

[Bruce_Bennett]

You know what, I just figured out what you ment by manual or automatic! Sorry about that.  Your talking about me doing it vs automation doin it. What a dummy I am! anyway, it's me. I'f I ever get an answer to my next question it might be "automatic".  Again, sorry about that.

Bruce

[pdlethbridge]

So your switches are manually operated. Are you using the atlas manual switch machines? Is it something like this?

[jward]

only you can decide whether 80-85% troble free is good enough. but i suspect that if you are careful you can do better than that.

you used a dremel, you were lucky. while dremels are good for grinding alot of material quickly, i've found them a bit hard to control in situations that call for finesse, such as your switchpoint. while it is tedious, i've found working with a needle file is far better. while the 45 degree angle on the end of the point that somebody else recommended helps a bit, you'll get better results from a much shallower anglke to the bevel on the poinr. i'd use a matchstick or something similar to block the point open, then file along the side of the point near the end to sharpen the end. you don't HAVE to get the point end razor sharp, but you'll need to get it close.

the idea here is to hide the point. careful observation by sighting down your swith should reveal eithr a small recess in the stock rail that accepts the point, or a slight kink just ahead of the point that forces the wheels away from the point. a properly filed point will fit into either of these spots in such a way that the wheels never touch the very end of the point. of they don't catch the end, they won't pick the point......

[NarrowMinded]

I use my wife's nice diamond fingernail files for this type of work.  She bought me a couple so I would stop taking hers, they are thin and durable and get into tight places.

NM