My first layout HO

[Robert Grace]

Although frustrated with switches and wiring, I put a little something together--please be nice--this is my first try.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b-nuELQ6J2U

[Bojangle]

Hey Bob.  My real name is Robert 
Any layout that gives you enjoyment is a good layout.  I'm new to model RR, and just beginning to understand the "illusionary" role playing of the hobby.  One thing I picked up on with  your layout.  I like the way the train disappears on the back loop, then reappears.  If you ran the train a little slower, the visual effect would be increased I think, like it went a long ways off, then returned later.  It seems that imagination and role playing is a big part of this hobby.   I think the layout is well organized, I see some layouts with so much scenery that it becomes more of a diarama than a layout (IMHO).   Anyway, good job on your layout
Bo

[Robert Grace]

Thank you for your kind comment.  Due to space limitations in my apt, I had to make the decision to do the scenery in sort of a modified modular layout--most pieces are designed to be set on curves, so using standard curving, they would work on any size overall layout. I can move the modules around, changing the appearance.

[Derek O]

Robert - nice job. My son and I enjoyed watching your video. He wants to know when you're adding HO vehicles to the layout!

Derek

[Bojangle]

I made some notes about the "modular" aspect for my project.  I like to  have several options available as I will no doubt change my mind many times. I also liked the color of your base board.  Where I live, it's mostly sagebrush rocks and sand, I don't see any sagebrush listed at Woodland, but can probably improvise.
Bo

[Robert Grace]

On that, I used grass mat for the mountain over styrofoam pieces cut into tiers with Woodland Scenics trees and their lichen in spots.  For the modules, I would use 1/4" foamboard and for the town part, place each building on a "block" I would make with another 1/4" of foam board on top--making "curbs" a uniform 1/4" high--which is in scale for HO. While it was not hooked up, under each building is a light with the wires going underneath the foam board but on top of the base board.  These wires are designed to run underneath a highway rather than punch holes in teh baseboard and run them underneath.  The wires would then be connected to several Atlas switches, chained together and fed into the AC port on a separate power pack. For the one you saw, I didn't add the road, but I have plenty of period vehicles (1948-1960 or so) to populate it with. All of this material was either from Bachman, my LHS or Ebay

[Bojangle]

You brought up another topic I am in confusion about.  I am a very capable carpenter, having built and trimmed many houses and woodworking.  I plan to use a good quality 1/2 inch plywood for the main base, but don't know what to add on top.
I would like to use about 1/4 inch cork, such as bulletin board stuff, although I have worked with a foam product called Depron.  I have used Homasote, but not thrilled with it either.   My LHS expert says to glue everything down, I can't see me doing that for changing things, so will probably nail down the track through the substrate.  I'm not too impressed with the cork or foam roadbed available, and I can't see myself pouring ballast all over the set.  Lots of questions and research before I start building.
Bo

[Craig]

Robert. Nicely done. I would slow the train down a bit. Also, I think 1/4" scales out to nearly two feet in 1/87 scale.

Enjoy your model railroad.

Craig

[Paul M.]

Nice job.  The operating crossing gates are a nice touch, and would be even more realistic if you ran you trains slower.

[Robert Grace]

Thank you kindly--just a regular Bachman operating crossing gate--I've seen the fancy ones where the crossing lights flash--even semaphores--love that, but haven't gotten to that point yet. Little steps--it's a hobby and I enjoy it