layout modifications. now with more pictures

[pdlethbridge]

I started out 2 years ago with a simple oval on the equal of 2 4x8 boards. It was basically a u shaped dog bone layout. I always had some of the layout double tracked for yard purposes but I used my Atlas software to design a new layout that was a folded over dogbone so I could double my runs. I was even able to keep from producing grades that I thought I would need to do the layout. Using a couple of switches and a crossover I was able to create a layout that could run as 1 loop or 2. It has no reverse sections, loops or wyes  The original layout has only been slightly modified and I have been able to test run to keep a check on the wiring. Here's a look see.

[uncbob]

Only question I have is it possible to increase your radius to 24 or 26

[pdlethbridge]

My max size is 48" so 22" is it. I run nothing bigger than a decapod and a connie.

[uncbob]

I ran 2-8-4s and 4-8-2s on my 22 --no problem
If you can squeeze another 4 inches in width you can go 22 and 24 for 2 mainlines

[pdlethbridge]

It will be 22 and 20, good enough for my engines

[uncbob]

Better than 22 and 18

[full maxx]

I have 22 and 18 and everything runs ok on it just gotta go kinda slow  but it looks silly with the overhang

[Jim Banner]

I would love to have sweeping curves 36" radius or more but it is not going to happen.  I can get much more operation with 18" curves, even though that limits the size of locomotives and rolling stock.  As far as overhang is concerned, if I can ignore that my layout is only a couple of miles from end to end, then I guess I can ignore a bit of overhang too.  The worst is passenger cars.  If the overhang of passenger cars starts to bother me, I just pull up a chair, sit down, and watch the trains at eye level.  Except for the pilots among us, this is a much more realistic way of watching trains.  And the overhang is hardly noticeable.

I do have some rolling stock and locomotives that will not run on anything less than about 24" radius, but a group of us built a layout with 30" minimum radius and I run them on it.  Generally these units are ones that are too modern for my home layout which is set firmly in 1961 when four axle diesels and 40' or 50' cars ruled the rails.  At the time, that was modern equipment.  I wonder if people building for modern equipment today will find their curves mush too tight for modern equipment 40 or 50 years from now.

Jim

[Doneldon]

re you sure that the two switches in the bottom loop aren't reversing sections?  They sure look to me like they would turn trains back the way they came.

[pdlethbridge]

They look that way but they don't reverse the train. All they do is shorten or lengthen the mainline run. The plan was made using atlas software which allows you to check for shorts. The locos and cars I have are based on prototypes built in the 30's through the 50's. So 1st generation diesels like RS3, GP-7, H16-44, and small steam like 4-4-0, 0-6-0t, 2-8-0 and 2-10-0 is what I'll be running. As I'm handicapped, I have the layout set at 32" and sitting in my chair puts it at the right height. The only time I'll stand is for switching and using the turntable. As Jim pointed out, sitting is a wise thing.

[uncbob]

I run 4-4-0  4-6-0  2-6-0  2-8-2 on my current 18 no problem

I run the 4-8-2 and the 2-8-4 on the 22 no problem

The 4-8-4 will run on the 22 buts looks weird from above so it is off the roster

All my freight are 40 ft or less

My Overland Pass Cars are 50 but I have others at 40 and 34

My new layout will be 24 and 22

[pdlethbridge]

Right now I'm in the process of modifying the buss system to include the new track and add a few needed feeders at spots that are in need. The yards in the plan have been slightly modified using yard ladders. All #4 lefts on the left and #4 rights on the right, all code 83 atlas custom lines. The #4's on the right needed to be away from mail line on the right so it, the main line, could be hidden easily. The outside main line is complete except for the number 6 switch below the 60 degree crossover. The inside main line is double tracked from the yard at the left, behind the round house and all the way to the yet to be installed crossover on the bottom.
The lower inside main line is complete from where the 2 loops are at the left to the sidings on the right. All new track need feeders. I'm waiting for my #6 switch, 60 degree crossover and flex track to complete the inside loop , the area around the crossover and the yards. All turnouts will have to be re-wired as many were moved and to will not be used.
The turntable is on the bench for lubing and will be put back in shortly. The round house will get some lights and be hooked up to the decoder that controls the turntable.

[Joe Satnik]

Dear pdlethbridge,

If you want to follow NMRA recommendations for track center spacing, you need more than 2" spacing near your mentioned 20" and 22" radii to avoid overhang crashes:

http://www.nmra.org/standards/sandrp/s-8.html

If I am interpreting the table (HO class 2) and doing the math correctly,

Outer Radius,  SPacing to Inner Radius

OR, SPIR
22", 2-1/8"

I also see 24"R sectional curves on the layout:

24", 2-3/32"

I don't think I see any 18" R sectional curves on your layout. 

It's desirable to keep things consistent everywhere on the layout, so use the worst case (wider) 2-1/8" spacing to the inner curve, which will be formed by flex track.

22"R and 19-7/8"R pair,

24"R and 21-7/8"R pair.

Alternatively, if you want to "anchor" at 22"R sectional track,

24-1/8"R (flex) and 22"R pair.

Hope this helps.

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik

[pdlethbridge]

I have a 2"minimum on the straights and more on curves. As one loco will be running at a time, I'm sure that it won't hit another train as it goes by. I got my first NMRA gauge when I joined the NMRA in the 60's.

[Joe Satnik]

Ah, I see.

Your layout is a one track loop (easily seen as one track on the bottom loop) with a very long inside passing siding that crosses itself just off the bottom loop.

Joe Satnik