Wiring EZ track

[Law Dawg 86]

In using E-Z Track how do you wire blocks? For example, if you were to have 2 concentric circles with crossovers and turnouts, how would you wire and control each block? I understand the concept with flex track, but not the E-z track.

[OldTimer]

There are a number of good wiring books at your LHS by Atlas, Kalmbach and Carstens that include specific information on wiring for cab control or DCC.  Bachmann has a gook that covers building entire laylouts.  As far as I know, you can use Atlas insulated rail joiners, or use a razor saw or Dremel tool to cut gaps in the rails where you need them.  Atlas makes rail joiners with feeders attached so you don't have to solder if you don't want to.  Good Luck.
Old Timer

[Jim Banner]

Having created blocks by gapping between track sections with Atlas insulating rail joiners (as OldTimer suggested) you can also include one terminal/rerailler section in each block for attaching the wires without having to solder.  If your locomotives stall as they cross the gaps, just remove the terminal/rerailler plug, turn it over, and plug it back in.

Cutting your own gaps and soldering on your own feeders is as valid and as easy a solution as it is with flex track.  If I may expand a bit on what OldTimer said about cutting your own gaps, this is what I wrote in another post:

If you use E-Z Track, all you need is an Atlas hobby saw to cut through the rail joiners between two sections.  Then slip some paper in the gaps and saturate the paper with ACC.  The next day, you can trim the paper flush with the rail heads and file smooth.  The paper is to keep the rail ends from touching.  You do not need insulated joiners if the base of the track is nailed/glued/screwed in place.  If your track is NOT firmly in place, cut the gaps in the center of a section.  Apply the paper as above.  The ties and base will hold the rails in alignment.  My own H0 layout has been rewired several times over the decades and each time seemed to require a different scheme of gapping.  So I would just electrically bypass old gaps and cut new ones.  There are well over a hundred cut gaps in it and none of them cause any trouble.

Jim