Engine Losing Power

[Cody J]

I just drove my new Bachmann engine onto a spur on my layout and on the first piece of track (Atlas Code 83 9" Straight) it loses power.. I tried switching out the piece and it still doesn't work... The light even shuts off.

Any help will be appreciated.


Thanks

[Cody J]

Also, the engine runs fine when it stays on the mainline and doesn't go onto the spur.
I've changed pieces, rail joiners, everything I can think of

[Cody J]

UPDATE: I turned the loco light on and simply pushed it onto the spur to findout exactly where it's losing power.. it's when the last axle of the rear truck is on the points.

[Cody J]

No, sorry I lied since the points are the moveable part once it enters the non-moving part of the switch after the point.. (maybe this is the frog).. I'll try to put a picture up of it

[Cody J]

Here is a picture of the problem.. I switched the turnout to a different spot and put another turnout in it's place.. the other turnout works perfectly and the bad turnout doesn't work even in a different spot.

[OldTimer]

You have a broken connection between the point and the closure rail on the diverging route.  Is the turnout new?  If so, I'd try taking it back to where you bought it.  If returning it is not possible and you can solder, you can put a jumper across the joint where you drew the black line.  Hope this helps.
Old Timer

[Cody J]

Is there anyway to fix it without soldering?

[OldTimer]

Probably not.  You could also jumper from the stock rail to the closure rail if that's easier.  Is there a hobby shop or model railroad club near you?  Even a jeweler could do it for you.

If you can't find someone to help you, I promise that soldering is not hard.  The secret is to have a hot enough iron, clean surfaces and rosin flux to help transfer the heat and clean.  Tin the iron tip (heat it up and coat it with solder). Tin the end of the wire.  Bend the wire so it holds itself against the rail.  Put some flux on the joint.  Hold the iron on the rail top.  When the flux bubbles and evaporates touch the solder to the joint and it will melt and be drawn into the joint.  Remove the iron and the solder.  It takes the joint a couple of seconds to set up so let it cool.  A good joint will be bright and shiney.  A dull grey joint isn't reliable and needs to be redone.  Practice for 1/2 hour on a scrap piece of track and you'll be soldering like a veteran.  Hope this helps.
Old Timer 

[Cody J]

Thanks OldTimer but I'm only 14 and really don't want to get into soldering yet. I think I'll just buy a new turnout since I'm going to the LHS on Wednesday anyway.

Thanks

[Tylerf]

I started soldering at 14, the source makes a great starter set. It's a great skill to have, especially in model railroading! allot of elements in the hobby can require it. Just sayin'...

[full maxx]

soldering is easy and you can get a kit from radio shack for less than $20 and old timers description is spot on...Radio Shack, A Tandy Company

[Jim Banner]

The closure rails are normally connected to the stock rails (the outside rails) at the swivel ends of the point rails.  But they also connect to the rails beyond the frog to give an all routes powered turnout.  So rather than replacing the turnout, why not replace one of the track pieces in the dead siding with a terminal/rerailer track piece and splice the wires into the feed wires from your power pack?  This should save you a few dollars and maybe you even have an extra terminal/rerailer section on hand.  If you find this shorts out your whole layout, just pull the plug on the terminal/rerailer, turn it over, and plug it back in.

Jim

[jward]

to expand upon jim's suggestion, since you are using atlas track which does not have plug in wiring, if you get a short circuit you'll need to swap the two wires going to the terminal track.