Turnind down wheelsets

[RacerAMX]

      I have some older Rivarossi steamers that I would like to have the wheels turned to the rp25 standard.
They don't like my Atlas  code 83 track much and seem to ride on the track spikes.
Does anyone know of someone who offers this service? I heard NWSL used to make replacments, but not any longer.

[ABC]

Because of the large size of the flanges, older Rivarossi/AHM locos have issues with code 83 track, but they do okay on code 100. So as another alternative can you switch to code 100?

[OldTimer]

I have gotten rid of the few Rivarossi engines I've owned over the years so I can't look, but my recollection is that the driver wheel centers were plastic.  This creates a real problem, because turning down the flange will generate heat and potentially melt the wheel.    If I'm wrong about the plastic wheels, I'm sure someone will set me straight.

Alternatives:  First: if you are very careful, will work slowly, and have someone to hold  the shop vac hose, you can turn the engine upside down, run the motor, and work on the flanges with jeweler's files.  You'd still have to replace the wheel sets in the leading and trailing trucks.  Second: Bowser used to make replacement chassis, mostly for Bachmann engines, as I recall.  I know that they made at least 4-8-4 's and 4-6-2 's.  If one of these wheel arrangements works for you, perhaps you could find one of these kits in a hobby shop, at a show, or on eBay and fit it to your engine.  Third: you could do what I did and retire the Rivarossi engines to a nice quiet shelf.  It used to be that you could buy almost any size driver in sets already quartered, with and without gears.  A search of the 2009 Walthers HO Reference Book found not a single driver.  Good luck
Old Timer

[RacerAMX]

Thanks for the replies.
I have a 14 x 20 foot double main line around the room layout that hangs  15 inches from my ceiling.
My  7 switches are code 83. so  switching over to code 100 would be a pain.
I  guess I should of checked how the old cab forward  worked on this layout , before I repowered it with a NWSL  motor and put some DCC with sound in it  lol.
I think I will try the old file trick .

[Jim Banner]

I have good luck taking down driver flanges with a Dremel tool and a cutoff wheel.  The trick is to hold the locomotive firmly in an engine cradle or in a box packed in place with foam.  A piece of heavy paper or light cardboard with a slot that fits the wheel being worked on keeps virtually all the gritty bits from going into the locomotive, but then I clean and oil the axles afterwards anyway.  With the wheels spinning under locomotive power, I barely touch the flanges with the cutoff wheel, keeping the cutoff wheel parallel to the wheel's axle.  Taking light cuts and stopping often to measure the flange height and to let the wheel cool makes this a relatively safe process for the wheel, even if it has a plastic center or a plastic insulator bushing.  Wearing safety glasses makes it a relatively safe process for me, too.  Using the grinder results in flanges with a flat bottom but a few strokes with a jeweler's file with the wheel spinning quickly rounds the edge of the flange.

For non-powered wheels, pulling one off each axle, then putting the axles one at a time in a drill will allow you to use the same technique.  Either clamp the drill in a vise or have someone else hold it on a table for you, and make sure he is wearing safety glass too.

Jim