tunnel

[full maxx]

I would like to make a tunnel for the layout...I know to use chicken wire for the frame but my question is ...does the plaser of paris rolls work well for covering the wire and then painting

[OldTimer]

First:  Don't use chicken wire.  You are inviting 1: short circuits; and 2: rust.  You can make "hard shell" scenery.  Form the contours with wadded up news paper, cover with plaster impregnated gauze or paper towels soaked in plaster.  After the plaster sets, you can pull out the newspaper.  Another option is to use cardboard strips to form an armature over which you'll lay your plaster towels/gauze.  Finally, you can build up your scenery contours with layers of styrofoam and then cover that with plaster towels, Sculptamold, or any of a number of other products. 
Second:  I have to tell you that tunnels are the biggest cliche on small model railroads.  Tunnels are expensive (and dangerous) to build and railroads went to great lengths to avoid them.  A cut is much more interesting and realistic.  But...If your boy wants a tunnel...shoot, go for it.  Later on, you can do what the real railroads are doing--"daylighting" their smaller tunnels  ie: digging them out.
Third:  If you do build a tunnel, don't forget to line it.  You have to plan ahead and do the liner first.  It is much more realistic to look into a tunnel and see a the liner than thn to see 1X3's and wadded up newspaper.
Old Timer

[full maxx]

ok how about the foam sheeting from Lowe's contoured into a tunnel shape then covered with plaster rolls and painted...I don't want it secured to the table in case it need to be moved for derailments...it will also be placed on a curve where there are no switches

[ebtnut]

Maxx:  The carved foam covered with plaster-impregmated cloth will work just fine for your purposes.  You will probably want to spread a second layer of plaster to smooth out the surface some before adding scenery.

[OldTimer]

If you're talking about extruded styrofoam insulation, that works fine.  There are hot wire tools to help shape it, or the Surform planes work well also.   We're talking about the blue (or pink) sheets.  DO NOT use the white insulation panels.  They are made up of little beads and just disintegrate when you try to cut or shape them.  
Old Timer

[full maxx]

yeah it would be the pink or blue "building insulation I think" that cuts easily from lowes ...its like 2" thick 4x8 sheets

[OldTimer]

Go for it!!!!!   

[lescar]

Full Maxx:

Would this work for what you want, I use to work here and they carry the HO pre-made tunnels in straight and curved.

http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/860490.asp

http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/860491.asp

You could also check other Hobby Stores for better prices.

Les

[jward]

i tend to leave the tunnel liner out, especially on the inside of curves. my layout is an open grid type, and the interior of my tunnels will be accessable from underneath the layout.

from my experience, you can usually reach into the tunnel portal on HO scale, and retrieve cars if you have to. in N scale that is not the case, the portals are too small for your hand, so you need to leave an alternate way of access. this doesn't hurt to have in the larger scales as well.

[full maxx]

ok here is a mock up of the tunnel...I know it needs a lot of work but I cut this out in about 45mins nothing is glued yet just laying in place kinda well anyway the engineer loves it http://www.youtube.com/user/FullMaxx1?feature=mhw4

[jonathan]

Here's something a little bit different.  My trains turn around on a peninsula.  All the tracks enter a tunnel to hide the tight radii of the turnarounds.  The end of my mountain is removable for access to the trains.  The hollow mountain is also a great place to store my paints and other artsy supplies.

I have one of those plastic tunnel liner moulds.  I make a liner when I don't have anything better to do.  Lately, I've had better things to do  .

Just something a little different, in case you're still looking for ideas.





Regards,

Jonathan

[Jim Banner]

I still like chicken wire and plaster of Paris for scenery.  I find it easier to shape the scenery, particularly when it comes to towering mountains rising four or five feet above the benchwork.  I prefer the 1" mesh for its extra strength and have always used new material (if you use used chicken wire, make sure your tetanus shots are up to date.)  Perhaps it is because I use new material that none of it has rusted, even after 26 year.  Not that it would matter if it did rust - when we were first married and had trouble affording model railroad materials, I used to strip it out of my mountains and use it again.  As for short circuits, I have never met anyone who has had that problem or who could introduce me to someone who had that problem.  It has always been "I knew a guy who's friend had a friend who said ..."  The only thing I do not like about plaster of Paris over chicken wire is the weight - so I have used lots of Styrofoam too, on portable layouts.

As far as tunnel liners are concerned, I often use fixed ones that are only a few inches long.  Past that, they are removable or sometimes just open topped view blockers.  These liners are hard to impossible to build inside solid Styrofoam but easy inside a hollow mountain.

My suggestion is to try different methods and see which one YOU like.  At this stage of the game, it is easy to try something, take it apart, and try something else.

Jim

[Terry Toenges]

The pre-made tunnel could be used as a base to build upon. Add plaster and paper/foam around it and on top to make your own shape.

[Terry Toenges]

Full maxx - Re: your Youtube video - That's pretty much the way I've done tunnels. Works great.
With the foam, I see no need to use the chicken wire and plaster. Just shape the foam to how you want it. Improvised foam tools can be found anywhere - tool box, kitchen drawer, junk drawer, etc. Because it doesn't look like a tool doesn't mean it can't be used as one.
Chicken wire and screen were my Dad's choice. Foam is my choice. Wonder what the next generations will be using?

[Johnson Bar Jeff]

Second:  I have to tell you that tunnels are the biggest cliche on small model railroads.  Tunnels are expensive (and dangerous) to build and railroads went to great lengths to avoid them.  A cut is much more interesting and realistic.  But...If your boy wants a tunnel...shoot, go for it.  Later on, you can do what the real railroads are doing--"daylighting" their smaller tunnels  ie: digging them out.

I sure won't argue the point, especially with regard to prototype railroading. I'll only observe that I currently have two tunnels on a layout that is essentially 36 inches by 48 inches (measuring from the track center line to center line), and I feel they make my little pike a lot more fun to watch than if I could see the entire train the entire time it makes its way around the loop.

But cuts are interesting, too. If I had more space to work with, doubtless I would incorporate a cut or two, and maybe even "daylight" one of the tunnels. 

And bridges, even short ones, are also nice.