So I'm contemplating making the Dive into EZ Track

[ryeguyisme]

I bought a Spectrum Explorer set on ebay for a really reasonable price $80 for a DCC 2-8-0 and 3 pass cars an oval of track and all the rest and I gotta say that was a steal. But I also know I might not like having B&O pass. cars or a couple other things, but I'm skeptical about the EZ-track

if you use it, how do you like it, does it stay clean for a while? Anything pros and cons, because I might just keep the track instead of selling it


as for the 2-8-0 I'm thinking of remocing the boiler for a different project and replacing it with either the old plastic bachmann Reading Boiler(suped up) or a varney heavy consolidation boiler(still reading prototype buut I'm worried about having to cut into the mechanism to make it fit)

tell me what you guys think

[jonathan]

EZ track is no better, or worse, than any other track on the market.  It depends on what you're use to, and what you want to accomplish.  I have a little of every brand, and it all works fine.  I don't like waste, so I use what's on hand, before I go buying any new track.  When I did have to buy track, I bought flextrack. 

Speaking as a Baltimore & Ohio fan, you're giving me adjita (sp) for what you are planning to your equipment.  I vote for leaving the Connie alone. 

If you really want a rewarding engine project, go to eBay and pick up an old metal engine for cheap (read, "needs a little repair").  Put a new motor in it, and add some details.   You'll find it to be much more economical than hacking up a new Spectrum engine--much more rewarding, too.

Here's a Mantua Mikado I just started working on.  The most expensive part will be the new motor:  a can motor with a worm gear that doubles as a flywheel (about $30).



As always, this just an opinion.  It's your railroad.  Do what makes you happy.

Regards,

Jonathan

[OldTimer]

Hey, Ryeguyisme,
EZ track shares it's advantages and disadvantages with all other brands of sectional track.  Most of us started in this hobby with sectional track and a lot of folks continue to use it because they like the convenience. 

I believe sectional track's biggest advantage is that it is EZ to use...just put it down, arrange everything the way you want, and secure the track with a little dab of hot glue here and there and you're done.  It really is quick and easy.

There are two big disadvantages for me.  First is the cost.  Remember that I'm an old guy on a fixed income, but still, two to three dollars for a 9 inch section of track seems high to me.  If you're willing to do without the molded roadbed, the price comes down a lot. 

Second is the geometry.  Although sectional track might seem to be pretty much free form, there are "rules" for putting it together based on turnout angles, curve radii and section length.  These rules force a certain sameness to the look of layouts built with any brand of sectional track.  The more components you have to choose from, the less obvious this is.   

My approach has grown into sort of mix-and-match.  I'll use whatever best does what I want to do whether it's sectional, prefab (flex) or lay-your-own.  I encourage you to experiment with laying track of all sorts.  You'll quickly find what works best for you.

Old Timer

[Johnson Bar Jeff]

I find EZ Track to be great for a non-permanent layout, one that isn't fastened down. I've never had a problem with the rails getting dirty.

[ryeguyisme]

yes I do like the ability to be able to rearrange things and I'm thinking of going and getting the EZ-command as well as two reverse loop systems and do an interesting dogbone layout

[NarrowMinded]

Just a note, Black base EZ track has steel rails Grey base is Nickle silver.

NM

[ryeguyisme]

Just a note, Black base EZ track has steel rails Grey base is Nickle silver.

NM

I'm well aware of this, thanks I'm a veteran of this forum from a while back, I felt I should dive right back into it. I'm also a friend of Guilford Guy

[Jim Banner]

I am more into hand laying track but keep a good selection of E-Z Track on hand to set up temporary trackage to get a feel for how the layout operates.  The weekend before last, I showed a partially built 0n30 layout that has a loop of hand laid track on hand cut wooden ties, individually stained, and complete with a couple of hand laid stub turnouts.  It also has a loop of E-Z Track because I was running out of time before the show.  While the dyed-in-the-wool model railroaders were appreciative of the hand laid, many more people were interested in the E-Z Track.

For the record, I was running on the inside loop and found several places that need tuning up and adjusting.  I was letting anyone who wanted to run a train on the outside, E-Z track loop.  It performed faultlessly even though I laid it only the day before the show and ran a train over it for the first time at the show.  I would like to point out that the kids did very well running trains, including the youngest, a 4 year old girl who had never run one before but hated to give it up.  The only mishap occurred when the locomotive ran into the observation car which had uncoupled due to loss of a coupler spring.

Jim

[ryeguyisme]

well I'd deffinitely hand lay track if it was fast and easy,(I do like the look of it as well)

[Woody Elmore]

Once you get the knack, handlaying track goes very quickly and it is cheaper but doing switches can slow you down. 

Some people prefer the ease of E-Z track. It is a matter of preference and cost.


It looks like Jonathan has been bitten by the "Bowser Bug" - an illness that forces people to rehab old metal engines made by long defunct companies. The Mantua mike is a great engine and those old Mantua/Tyco engines will run forever with a little care.

[Joe Satnik]

If you like multiple concentric curves (think PRR Horseshoe Curve):

Atlas flex & cork roadbed, or

Kato Unitrack sectional.   (Kato's geometry is well thought out.)

Hope this helps.

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik 

[ryeguyisme]

It looks like Jonathan has been bitten by the "Bowser Bug" - an illness that forces people to rehab old metal engines made by long defunct companies. The Mantua mike is a great engine and those old Mantua/Tyco engines will run forever with a little care.

Bowser Bug you say? Funny I don't have a single bowser engine(unless you count the 4-6-0 I have but its stamped Varney)I collect alot of varney steam parts, and Mantua  parts, I even have some brass and a Handmade brass 0-8-0 thats pretty neat and I've managed to replace the mechanism on that locomotive with a brand new varney pre-war chassis, now all thats left is figuring out how to motorize the chassis.


As for track I'd handlay, but probably buy switches instead of laying them considering the fact that at my club's layout, it used to be all hand-layed and the switches were by far the biggest threat to our DCC system, so that had to go. But as far as handlaying regular track, ive have experience with it, and I plan to do it alot in O 2-rail 

[Johnson Bar Jeff]

Those old Mantua/Tyco engines will run forever with a little care.

I'll say! When I was a little kid, I was frightened away from lubrication by dire warnings of destroying motors. But now that I'm old and have more trains than I know what to do with--and no parents around to give me heck if I "destroy" one of my locomotives--I've gotten 40- and 50-year-old Mantua/Tyco steam locomotives running like new and purring like kittens by the simple application of a a tiny drop of oil to each motor and axle bearing a little grease on the gears.

[Colorado_Mac]

... The Mantua mike is a great engine and those old Mantua/Tyco engines will run forever with a little care.

So true!  I just got back into the hobby and purchased a Spectrum 2-6-0, which I love.
But I also pulled a 1961 Mantua/Tyco shifter out of the closet and it runs great, also.

[ryeguyisme]

so I might get a box of 50 9" straights for a good price, and I've been thinking about it, and I feel of just venturing into it all, I'm deciding my minimum radius for that collection of track will be 22" no less or I'll sell it off

I kind of figured that would be a start and just buy 22+ inch radiuses