Flex Track Laying Tools

[chaynes]

Never having laid any Flex trax, save for short straight pieces for displays, I was wondering what is the best method for cutting the rails---nippers, saw???  Are the jigs that hold sections together while soldering really useful???  What are the critical tools to have when laying flex track?

Any suggestions would be very appreciated.
Chris

[Chris350]

I just picked up a pair of these.  They're hard to beat. Xuron Track Cutter

[mabloodhound]

DO NOT solder the sections together.   Expansion/contraction may become a problem and future changes will be difficult.
The rail joiners are sufficient for holding everything in line and allow movement to occur.
Add power to each section with wires soldered to the rails and to your buss wires.

[ebtnut]

I tend to disagree with Dave.  I always soldered my joints together.  I lay a length down, trim the rails as needed with a rail nipper, insert the joiners, then solder the next length to it.  Particulary on curves, soldering first makes the joints bend to curve better than leaving the joint loose.  Also, over time unless you do run a power drop to every length, the rail joiners will eventually oxidize and you will lose conductivity. 

[Chris350]

I tend to disagree with Dave.  I always soldered my joints together.  I lay a length down, trim the rails as needed with a rail nipper, insert the joiners, then solder the next length to it.  Particulary on curves, soldering first makes the joints bend to curve better than leaving the joint loose.  Also, over time unless you do run a power drop to every length, the rail joiners will eventually oxidize and you will lose conductivity. 

My thoughts as well.  Particularly since I didn't take this approach the first time I laid my big radius curves and they were never quite right.  Took a fair amount of coercion to get them to curve smoothly before I soldered them.  I solder all my joints eventually for electric continuity.  Except the joints that are soppused to be isolated or course.

[NarrowMinded]

I also disagree with Dave. I usually lay part of the curve then trim the long rail and then solder the next piece of flex with it still straight then continue laying the radius. I have never had a problem with expansion or contraction.

NM

[ebtbob]

     The issue of soldering rail joiners has been debated for years.   Some,  like Dave say,  do not solder.   Some say solder all the joiners and some others say solder only certain joiners.
      Up until about three years ago,  I never soldered any joiners and had no noticeable problems.   Then I learned how to do some basic soldering.  Now I solder,  if I feel it to be necessary because the use of dcc makes power problems more apparent.
       On my HO railroad I have very few solder joints because I use Atlas flextrack that has one sliding rail.   By offsetting the siding rail about 6 inches,   I am able to have joints,  especially on curves where the rail joiner on one rail is supported by solid rail on the opposite side.  Using this method greatly reduces the chance for a kink in the rail.   I simply slide out the rail and when I bring up the next piece of flex track,  I slide that rail into the vacated ties on the first piece of flex track.   Where the two rails meet,  I simply shave away the nubs that represent the track spikes and install the rail joiner.    I never cut any flex track until it is necessary.   Cut when coming to a turnout,  crossover,  or end of stub siding.
         Now,  when I laid the Micro Engineering On30 flex track on my other railroad,  that was a different story.   ME flex track has no sliding rail so I had to have my rail joiners side by side, forcing me to do some soldering.   However,  on straight track,  I do not solder and I leave very tiny gaps to allow for expansion and contractions.    On all joints without solder,  I have sprayed in some CRC 2-26 electrical spray to protect the joints against oxidation.   That spraying can be done one a year if you like.   I have not re-sprayed yet after 2.5 years.
        I agree that the Xuron cutters are about the best on the market today,  but, and again I say but.......cut ONLY RAIL.   DO NOT cut other materials with these cutters.   That way,  the jaws will have a longer life span.   Once the jaws get nicked,  seriously consider getting new cutters.
         Also,  you may want to consider Ribbon Rail radius and straight track guides to help have nice continuous radii and to help keep the straight track straight.

[ebtbob]

One other thing......if any of you live in the Philadelphia area and would like a demonstration of how I lay flex track,  you will find my name,  Bob Rule, Jr.  in the Montgomery County phone book.   Call me and let's get together at my house.   Or call Lin's Junction in Lansdale, Pa at 215-412-7711 and see if I am working on any given Saturday.   I can also do the demonstration there as well.