Took the Plunge

[lescar]

Thanks, I kinda figured it was going to be overkill, but I rather have it and not need it, then need it and not have it.  Will also be taking some precautions, I'll be adding a PM-42 to break down the power distribution and programing it for a lower short cut-off.

Just so I understand the Bus wire system, that's using two wires running the length of the layout and taping off to the PM-42 and then too the DS-64's.  For the size of the layout 10X5, already looking on adding a L- Shape to it. 

[lescar]

Update:

Went out a bought a package of each 4 1/2 & 2 ¼ track sections, so I could add-on to the siding (works nice now when backing up to hook up the cars), also picked up two packages of the Atlas rail joiners with wires and hooked one pair to the far side of the test track (the oval that came with the set), the train was slowing down on the far side of the oval, what a difference it made on the performance.  I now know that a power connection every three feet will defiantly improve performance on the bigger layout I'm doing.

Did have a few minor problems: I broke a few of the plastic clips that hold the rail in place, luckily they were close to the edge and the rail joint and other track keeps it in place.  The train handles it all right forward and backwards.  I did figure a good way to remove them without destroying it. 

What is a good glue or procedure to use to repair the broken hold downs for the rails, I was thinking of using a drop of epoxy to secure it back down.

Has anyone tried to solder there own wire to a rail joint, I would prefer to solder on the  joints then to the rails them selves, I'm worried about the heat damaging the plastic.  I think the wire on the Atlas ones seem to small of a gauge, especially when I'm going to be using an 8 Amp booster.  I understand that it wont be drawing the full 8 Amps but what it could draw may put an overload on the small gauge wirer when a short happens, this is just speculation on my part. 

Thanks 
Les