Mystery Short

[BestSnowman]

I've got to say Jon, you've got the most interesting projects.

[jonathan]

Thanks.

I have become a little bored with scenery, so I keep looking for something more interesting to do.  I need to force myself back to structures, lights and trees.

[lirrman]

Several years ago I built a G5s Long Island from a Bowser kit and had the same problem on both left & right hand turns.  I turned all the lights out in the room and ran the engine.  Lo and behold a small spark.  The lead trucks or pilot trucks were touching the front cylinders on turns, even 25" radius turns.  A file and a dab of paint corrected the problem.  There is a small flat spot on each of the cylinders so the wheels can clear but it's barely noticeable.  After tweeking the Mantua style motor it runs fine. 

[jonathan]

LIRRman,

I had been debating with myself, whether to file away at the cylinders or not.  Since I haven't done final assembly, yet, this would be a good time to file.  "An ounce of prevention..." as it were.

Thanks,  great to hear from previous builders.  Makes me feel like I'm on the right track  .

Thanks again,

Jonathan

[pdlethbridge]

Just think, each step is a new challenge to overcome. You'll get there. I've been contemplating sending the USRA light mike mechanism into bowser to get it looked at. But, in stead, I ripped it apart and found a few problems to fix and I hope this does the trick.

[jonathan]

PD,

The mechanism was the make-or-break part of the project for me.  I studied it, and drawings of the mechanism, forever it seemed.  I found theory articles on eccentric crank angles... all kinds of strange stuff.  Took a couple of weeks of tinkering to get it working smoothly.  I kept finding little things that were causing a minor bind... fix it and another bind would turn up.  I still expect something to go wrong with the valve gear at some point.  So far, so good.  When I pick the loco up off the track (current from tender), the drive wheels turn so quiet and smoothly I can't believe it.  I didn't lube any of the parts until I felt like all the adjustments were done. I feel sorry for all the weight the mechanism has to carry.  What a heavy engine! 

Regards,

Jonathan

[pdlethbridge]

Are you happy you spent all that time on it? Give yourself a big pat on the back

[pdlethbridge]

I got my mike going tonight. It took a shim or 2 in different places but it solved a lot of the problems.   For instance, the gear on the driver was moving side to side and jamming the worm. A couple of kadee washers later, problem solved. There was a lot of play in the motor, another washer solved that problem. I found some loose screws on the valve gear causing binding. That's been fixed. And the holes in the cylinders were a touch tight, those have been reamed and no more binding there. It takes time, patience and a very close eye over the whole model as it's running to see where the problems are.

[jonathan]

Sounds like you're having as much fun as me, if not more.  I felt very relieved when the mechanism finally started turning freely. 

Just got done filing out a little material from the inside of the steam chest (hope it was enough).  I think at long last I'm ready to solder the headlight bulb and screw down the shell.  A smart man would make one more test run before closing things up.  I dunno if I'm that smart.  If the engine still shorts after all the little adjustments, I think I have to pull a little track and smooth things out.

I've decided to reconnect the motor to the loco frame (right side).  I like the thought of more wheels picking up power.  And DCC is in the very far future.  I know how to change things if/when I make the switch. 

Just itching to put on the marker lights and other little details.

Regards,

Jonathan

a little weight for the pony trucks


bulb finally fits in headlight can (lots of slow, hair-raising drilling)


finally enough clearance for the pilot


installation of skew wound DC-71 (sitting on white gloves I use when handling the shell)

PS.  Don't know if any of you are aware, but Bill Bowser passed away last month.  He was 94.  Bids on Bowser kits (unassembled) are rising rapidly (ebay)

[rich1998]

Off topic.

Boswser now has the Stewart line. Do not know how long they have had it though.

lex

[zachary4179]

thats a good qweshion

[Pacific Northern]

Off topic.

Boswser now has the Stewart line. Do not know how long they have had it though.

lex

Sept. 2005 - information posted on Bowser/Stewart web site

http://bowser-trains.com/Stewart/Stewart%20Time%20Line.htm

[Pacific Northern]

I copied the contents of this thread for future reference. 

I was lucky enough a couple of years ago to obtain a couple of the Bowser steam kits off of e-bay way before the prices increased.

I have the G5 and M-1 kits complete with the superdetail parts included. These are my two future projects to tackle after my main layout is more or less finished.

[jonathan]

PN,

When you are building these locos, remember to be patient with the quirks. When you solve one, another will turn up.  For instance, I no longer have any shorts.  However, now I have an occasional derailment (driver wheels).  Happens once every three or four laps around the loop--and not in the same place.  Gotta noodle this out.  See the video.




Don't know if this link works, yet.  Now I'm learning how to shoot and download video.

This was at 50% power.  Trying to break in the loco.  Obviously, I still have a couple of things to work out.  Engine had been running fine for about 15 minutes, when I decided to get it on film.  Ah, Murphy, how predictable you are!

Oh, and whatever the metal is that Bowser uses; Mazak, Shadrak or Obednigo...  It is very, very soft.  It is extremely easy to strip out a threaded hole.  Go ahead, ask me how I know  .

Regards,

Jonathan

[Pacific Northern]

jonathan

The link works, I felt your pain when the engine derails. When you figure that problem out let us know.

That sure is a great looking engine.