couplers

[full maxx]

I am having issues with changing couplers on my rolling stock...not sure of the brand of cars but the ez mate couplers will not fit properly on any of them ... there is a lot of slop in the fitment, are there any spacers, the ez mate has pivot holes larger than the stub on the cars... I can do pics of the cars if necessary

[ABC]

A picture's worth 1000 words, it couldn't hurt. Is your rolling stock a kit, lower end, or higher end?

[Tylerf]

Well it sounds like talgo trucks(aka truck mount couplers. I don't belive bachmann has a fix for those but kadee does. They sell couplers with special spacers that snap in to the pockets to hold in the couplers properly.

[full maxx]

 

[full maxx]

here is a link to the pics to see them bigger http://s211.photobucket.com/albums/bb165/nitroburnr/

[ABC]

They look like Tyco cars. No offense,  but these are mostly worthless in my opinion because for the cost to switch out the couplers at around $3 a pair times 10 cars equals about $30, and you can get Athearn kits for about $6 each, so that's at least 5 decent cars to use on your layout for what you would spend to convert all these Tyco cars. Tyco and Life-Like have their place, but realistically they are junk because you need to replace the trucks, couplers, and wheel sets to get them to be usable (operate reliably w/o problems), whereas if you get say an Athearn or MDC/Roundhouse kit they have knuckle couplers and decent trucks and wheel sets.

[jward]

most of those appear to be old tyco cars. do you have a coupler height guage? if not, you'd better get one because i can guarantee you that if you put knucke couplers in those coupler mounts they are going to be way too low. you'll have problems with the trip pins snagging on your switches, and they won't match up with your existing cars. you'll have problems with them uncoupling because of the mismatch in height.

your best solution is to not try to convert them just yet. buy an athearn blue box kit, build up the car and use a horn hook coupler in one end and a knuckle coupler in the other. you'll then be able to run those old tyco cars behind the athearn, and the coupler height should match up.....horn hook type couplers are alot less sensitive to variations in height than knuckele couplers are.....

once you gain a little more experience in the hobby, you can tackle the conversion of those cars to knuckle couplers, but this isn't a task for a beginning model rail.....

[full maxx]

I have a Walthers caboose that I changed a knuckle to a horn hook but it looks silly being right behind the tender...going to the train store tomorrow to get some stuff...what brand will work with horn on one end and knuckle on the other besides Walthers

[jbsmith]

Athearn RTR or Blue Box kit if they have any,,Accurail kit,Bachmann,,so long as the couplers are the right height on the "conversion car" you should be alright.
Talk to the your train store people, they should help you make a good choice. 

[ABC]

Kadee Coupler #

TYCO Rolling Stock
Old ............................................................................. #9
New.................................................................#27 or #28
Old Time Passenger Cars.......................................... #9

LIFE-LIKE® ROLLING STOCK
Truck Mounted Freight Cars......................#27 or #28 TM
Body Mounted Freight Cars............................MCS BM
Passenger Cars ................................................. #28 TM

BACHMANN ROLLING STOCK
All Freight Cars (Generic)........................... #37 TM, MCS BM

AHM ROLLING STOCK
All Freight Cars-Talgo trucks............................... #37 TM
All Freight Cars-Body mount).........................MCS BM

MCS = NO.5®, 28, 58, 118, 119, 148 or 158 Medium Centerset Shank Coupler
BM = Body Mounting, CM = Clip Mounting, SM = Screw Mounting, TM = Truck Mounting
Link for Kadde coupler conversion for TYCO rolling stock.
http://www.kadee.com/conv/pdf/t305.pdf

[full maxx]

wow hey thanks alot you guys...me have heap big learning to do

[CNE Runner]

You probably already visited your LHS so this message isn't timely. As was mentioned, most of the cars, you have pictured, aren't worth the price of coupler conversion (we sell older Tyco units in groups of 5 or 10 at ridiculously low prices to get rid of them). Those cars that have truck mounted couplers should probably have new coupler draft boxes installed on the car body and the old X2F (hook-horn) couplers cut off...a somewhat labor intensive process. Along with replacing the couplers one should also replace those large flanged plastic wheel sets...another expense as good wheels ain't cheap.

If these cars are all you have at the moment, and you want to get something running on those rails we see in the image, then there is a much cheaper alternative. You need to take one of your cars and turn it into a 'conversion car'. A 'conversion car' has an X2F coupler on one end; and a magnetic coupler on the other (I happen to like Bachmann EZmate Mark II couplers; but the choice is yours). Essentially the 'conversion car' would be used between those cars that have X2F couplers - and those that have magnetic couplers. As your collection grows, you can eventually get rid of the 'conversion car'.

Regarding magnetic couplers: I have found that having all the same brand of couplers results in much more reliable operation. In the real world, that isn't possible as coupler brands vary among the numerous car manufacturers (cars can be equipped with: EZmate, Accurail, McHenry, and Kadee...and probably some I have forgotten). So what is the modeler to do? When you install a new pair of couplers, or when you purchase a piece of rolling stock that has pre-installed couplers, use a small file (or light sanding stick) to 'burnish' the coupler heads. In other words, you will remove any rough edges/molding marks on the mating surfaces. Get yourself a tube of Kadee Greas-em lubricant (graphite powder) and 'squirt' a little into the coupler draft box.

OK, we have the coupler working silky smooth; but is it aligned correctly? For this step you will need two pieces of equipment: a Kadee coupler/pin height gauge (which will work on all magnetic couplers), and a coupler trip pin adjusting tool. Micro Mark sells these as do other suppliers. It is of vital importance that all couplers be at the same (read as: 'correct') height. If not you will have to do some shimming...either with the coupler draft boxes or with the trucks. After adjusting the coupler head height (which, thankfully, is rarely necessary), it is time to check the trip pin height. Your handy Kadee height gauge will also check this vital distance. You can bend the trip pin either up or down using the appropriate tool (which, by the way, isn't a pair of needlenosed pliers).

If you follow the steps above you should have magnetic couplers that work well 95%+ of the time. I have never seen magnetic couplers work as advertised 100%...but that adds to the 'mystery' of the hobby. If I have confused you, feel free to contact me off-line.

Regards,
Ray

[full maxx]

thanks CNE I have already visited the lhs and train store and got 2 Bachmann rolling stock cars and made one a conversion car and it works pretty well, at least for my 4yo

[full maxx]

here is a video ...I think this is all the cars except the passenger cars http://s211.photobucket.com/albums/bb165/nitroburnr/?action=view&current=M2U00454.flv

[CNE Runner]

Full Maxx - Loved your video! The bird sounds, in the beginning segment, seemed to add to the scene...well done. A word of caution regarding that 'bossy' conductor you seem to have drawn on today's run: he seems to have definite ideas as to how the run is to be made. Was that a 'wreck' at the end? Was anyone injured?

It does my heart good to hear a young voice near model trains. Whether you realize it or not, you are giving your boy experiences he will remember, and cherish, long after you are gone. We need more young folks in our hobby if it is to survive into the 21st century.

BTW: those cars look great!

Ray