Power problem witn E-Z Command

[jjanseni]

Track seems to have a problem as the light on the train will come on for a few seconds but the train will not start. Is this a power problem on the track? Do I need to somehow add more power to the track in various locations? If so, what is the easiest way to add power? I am a beginner so please keep it simple. I gave this to my grandson and it worked for about 6 months but for some reason not allow the train to run. The train was running slow on various parts of the track before it totally stopped running. I have checked all the connections and cannot see anything wrong but any suggestion is welcome. Thanks

[ABC]

It sounds like the locomotive wheels are dirty and/or the track is dirty, and if you haven't lubed the locomotive in a while it wouldn't hurt to do that to as long as you make sure not to over lube it just a touch of lube suffices. Also you can use a touch of conductive lube on the locomotive's wheels and also apply very sparingly to the track as well. If this does not correct your problem, then get back to us on the forum, so we can suggest how to further pursue this issue.

[jjanseni]

It sounds like I need to do a little house cleaning. Sorry to ask but the lube you are talking about can be found at a hobby shop? is it a special lube just for trains and tracks. I promised to get smarter as we grow into this. I have no doubt that the train and track are dirty as I have not cleaned them any more than with a vacuum. We went from a track around the Christmas tree with toy train to Bachman. Thanks again

[ABC]

What you need for the loco is plastic compatible lubes like Labelle, or Bachmann. Also for the wheels and track you are looking for a lubricant that says Conductive Lubricant, both can be found at you local hobby shop. Get a track eraser (like a Brite-Boy) and some track cleaning fluid and use a soft cloth with that, but be sure not to leave behind threads or fibers on the track as that will ruin your locomotive.

[TrainArts]

Just for fun, run your fingers along the rail and see how much black junk comes off the track. That could be the problem, certainly the track needs to be clear before you try any other diagnostics.

For a quick test, just use rubbing alcohol on a paper towel to clean the tracks and the wheels of the locomotive. The alcohol really cuts through the gunk.

FYI, the black tar on the tracks and wheels, to my humble limited knowledge, is not standard household dust. It's a carbon layer that builds up as a result of the imperfect electrical contact between the track and train.

I find I have to clean the track with alcohol monthly at least. I find the track lube to be optional but still a great idea. Make sure you get specific electrically conductive lube, not gear lube.

Have fun, hope this helps.

[Jim Banner]

I believe that the black crud that looks like carbon is actually oxides of the metals in the tracks and wheels.  These oxides, like most finely divided powders, look black because they have so many light absorbing surfaces, even in tiny amounts.  MIG and TIG welders are familiar with these oxides - they are formed in large quantities every time they forget to turn on the shielding gas which is used to keep oxygen out of the electric arc.  The arc provides the energy to blow oxygen molecules apart.  The oxygen often recombines into ozone, giving the smell I still associate with the MARX trains of my youth.  Ozone, or O₃, spontaneously breaks down to form O₂ and O which is atomic oxygen.  Nature abhors atomic oxygen almost as much as she abhors a vacuum, so the O immediately combines with whatever is available.  When a spark occurs between a locomotive driver and a rail, a tiny amount of one, the other, or both is instantaneously oxidized by the atomic oxygen that invariably forms.  Unfortunately, these oxides are generally non-conductive (unlike carbon which does conduct.)

There are two ways of dealing with this problem.  One is to keep cleaning the crud off the rails.  The other is to stop it forming in the first place.  You can stop it forming by using a bit of oil on the rails to suppress the arcing.  Only a very little bit is required.  A layer a few molecules thick will suppress the arcing without affecting traction.  And "conductive" oils, which are so thin that they do not interfere with electrical power passing from rails to wheels, do a fine job of suppressing arcing.  But like TrainArts said, be sure to use "conductive" lube.  Things like motor oil or 3-in-1 oil are too heavy.

Jim

[BradKT]

If (after you clean the wheels and track) your loco is running but it seems like it is not getting enough power, then the issue may be the size of your layout and the fact that you only have one terminal input from your EZ-Command control system running to your track.  I use the EZ-Command control setup (with Bachmann's 5 amp booster) with EZ-track and I have a very large layout (3 tracks connected by multiple switches covering 5'x9' and 6'x10' in an "L" shape).  This was an issue that I had and the people in this discussion group led me through the whole process of how to wire and install multiple terminals.  I wound up installing TEN terminal inputs.  It wasn't hard at all.

The title of the post was "I Think I May Not Have Enough Power for My Layout" by me (BradKT) and the dates of the posts and replies run from 4/15/09 thru 4/24/09.  It is is the General Discussion section of this site.

If you need to go this route, the entire discussion and the various replies will show you everything that you need to do.  The discussion group really gave me some excellent support with everything.

I suspect that what the other posters have said will solve your particular problem, but, if not, you need to read this entire discussion thread...especially if you have a large DCC layout and intend to run multiple trains.