Proto 2000 GP30 not running and smoking

[Michigan Railfan]

I've posted a thread before about this engine, and still have not got it to work. My friend and I uploaded a couple videos to Youtube, so I'm going to post the links and you can see for yourself whats wrong with the engine. It came DCC equipped, and the decoder is fried for some reason (BTW, I'm running this on DC). I took off the decoder and found that the connector clip was not in place right i.e. not on where it should've been. After I put the decoder back on, the lights didnt light up (they did before I took off the decoder), and it did not smoke. I think its because I put the connector clip on the wrong way. I'm just about ready to smash this engine through frustration, and put the pieces in my friends' scrapyard. I just got the Proto 1000 Subway train for christmas, and runs fine (other than the pantographs coming off way too easily because they're not glued in). Any help would be appreciated.

Part 1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t-Cz63XBOfc

Part 2
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2JGklVb2IU0&feature=related

[Guilford Guy]

Judging by the video that's not DCC equipped, that's just the jumper plug in the 8pin plug. You said the lights light up before you removed the jumper plug. Check all the motor leads and make sure none are broken. Also, are the 2 long brass screws under the fuel tank screwed in? Those act as a pick up. If you could post in focus pictures of the circuit board I could help more.

[Michigan Railfan]

Ohh, I thought it was DCC equipped. Theres only one problem on checking the motor leads, I cant get to the motor because of the silver part on the chassis. I have no clue how to get it off. The screws are in all the way, I took them out, not sure what they connected, so then I just put it back in. Next time I go over to my friends house (where the video was shot), I'll use his better camera to get some focused picture of the circuit board.

[Guilford Guy]

The screws holding the weight in are at the end of the loco near the coupler boxes.

[Michigan Railfan]

Ok. Thanks. I'll try taking that off tomorrow when I get home from school. Thanks.

[Guilford Guy]

The screws are in all the way, I took them out, not sure what they connected, so then I just put it back in.

On the GP30, the frame acts as a truck lead. Those screws you took out and put back in conduct electricity between the frame and the weight.

[Tylerf]

so I noticed a few things, first, no that isn't a decoder but rather a bunch of resistors for the lights and motor for dc use. Next after watch both videos, I can't seem to see what you took off that was supposedly a decoder?? It looked the same in both videos, neither boards were removed. The only other thing I can suggest is checking all the wires to make sure everythings connected properly, especially the 8 pin plug on the loco with all of the wires running to it as non of those wires are soldered on but rather held in place by plastic clips. Oh and what ever the smoke was comming from is definetly fried, I'm guessing from a short somewhere in the loco possibly.

[Michigan Railfan]

Tyler,
I took off the "resistors" when the video was not running. I made sure all of the wires were connected properly, and they were. The smoke was coming from the resistors. When I took off the resistors, the connector clip was not on where it should've been at all, and a loose spring that was not where it should've been. I'll upload another video showing what's under the resistors, and how the connector clip was found.

[Guilford Guy]

I have a spare GP30 circuit board, it's yours if you want it. Send me an email- [email protected].

[Tylerf]

Yeah, so because of the board not being installed properly(probably at the factory im assuming) it shorted the board causing it to overheat a resistor on it. Now the board or decoder is what creates all the connections, with out either, the locomotives wires are not attached to eachother. so it doesent work, and since the board was smoking, im gonna guess its not doing its job of simply connecting all those connections. so a new board is probably in order, unfortunatly. I have a few of these locos my self, and while they are amazing on the outside, the inside(being the electronics) are not really up to that standard, however mainly for DCC users who have to replace and install resistors to get lighting in it(not fun!) but they do have nice motors and of course look amazing, so its definetly worth the effort.

[Michigan Railfan]

GG, will your spare circuit board fit in all GP30's? Because you have to screw it into the frame. Just wondering.
I agree with you on that Tyler. They're motors themselves are'nt very good. I have the subway set by them, and does not go very fast at all. Although, speed is'nt everything. It also makes a cool noise when accelerating. It sounds like a Semi Truck accelerating, but much quieter of course.

[Guilford Guy]

Yes it will, I've put it and the 2 screws in a bag.

[Michigan Railfan]

Ok, I just took off the shell today, and found something that could be affecting this engine. I found a red wire, not connected to anything. There's a silver lip of somesort with nothing connected to it. I think the red wire connects to that. Not sure though. I'm pretty sure I have the connector clip in the right way. The red wire may also connect opposite of the gray wire on the connector clip. If anyone can find any pictures of where all the wires go on this specific engine, that would be very helpful. GG, I might take you up on your offer. I'll have to think about it. What state do you live in (if you live in the USA)?

[Tylerf]

So after looking at my proto GP9(which i assume has the same wiring color code as a GP30) it goes like this,   
      red   >1 orange
    Blue      2 yellow
  white      3 Empty
   gray       4 black
There is also an epty clip on mine but everything is connected properly so im not sure what its for, and as you see the red should be across from the orange or #1.

[pdlethbridge]

This would be the 8 pin plug for DCC. The wires are color coded for their place on the engine as follows.
orange--top motor
gray------bottom motor
red------- left wheels
black---- right wheels
white---- front light
yellow---back light
blue------common for lights