Trains stopping randomly

[Eddy]

I was running a locomotive using the E-Z command controller I got for Christmas. Since yesterday one of my locomotives started to stop for a split second occasionally and start back up again. When it stops it does not stop at any particular place at the track. I checked the usual things such as the connection to my track, the wheels on the locomotive, and made sure that the track was clean.  I tried another locomotive and the same thing is happening.  I'm thinking that the source of the problem could be my E-Z command controller. I did unplug it and plugged it back in and the problem still exists.  Both locomotives that were used where the Bachmann standard line DCC on board locomotives.

[trainmanjay]

Well unfortunately trains under the EZ command system seem to be very sensitive to things such as dust and particles on the track. What I would do is to regularly pull a cleaning car with most if not all of your consists.  If you still need help visit me on twitter my username is trainmanjay
Hope this helps you! 

[Eddy]

Thanks for letting me know that this is just typical of the E-Z command controller.  I don't have a track cleaning car but I do clean my track regularly.

[CNE Runner]

OK Eddy, you say you clean your track regularly. I am going to assume that is once every other week or so. If that is the case, dirty track isn't your problem...and running a track cleaning car probably won't rectify the situation (although it is a good idea).

When you clean your track, I will further assume you are using something like a BriteBoy pad. These, mildly abrasive pads, will remove any oxidation from the top and inside edge of the rails (I am talking about the small edge just below the rail head and not the whole inner side of the rail). OK, track is squeaky clean? Let's move on. The wheels, on your locomotive, may be dirty and need to be cleaned. There are several ways to accomplish this: some easy - some not so easy. The easiest way is to use a Kadee "Speedi Wheel Cleaner". This is an electrically charged wire brush that allows the wheels to turn as it removes any accumulated 'gunk'. Check out the Kadee website for more information or try the Micro Mark website (Micro Mark part # 83553). Kadee is having a rather large after-holiday sale and you may be able to secure one of these jewels at a good price (Micro Mark gets $11.95).

Another method to clean wheels (on locomotives) is to spray a USED dryer sheet with isopropanol alcohol or Goo-Gone (available at Walmart) and lay across a piece of powered track. You then lightly place the drivers (or one truck on a diesel) over the moist sheet - hold the locomotive in place - and turn up the power enough to have the wheels spin on the sheet. Do this for the other power truck (if diesel) and you will be amazed at the amount of dirt that comes off the wheels and onto the sheet.

The last method is probably the hardest and involves using the same chemicals as the previous method - only they are applied with a Q-tip. This can be rather time consuming and tedious. Unfortunately this is about the only way to clean unpowered wheels on your rolling stock (a job best saved for a rainy day).

If these methods don't solve your problem, the next step is to check all wiring and connections with a multimeter. In the event everything checks out OK; you have isolated the problem to the command unit. BTW:It probably wouldn't hurt to take a locomotive to another layout to see how it preforms there...locomotives can be/become faulty. Can you borrow a friend's locomotive and try it on your layout?

In any event - good luck,
Ray

[Eddy]

I clean my track every other day and I keep the locomotive's wheels clean. I have tested multiple locomotives on the track and have the same problem occur. I'm sure that all the connections to the track are fine as everything runs well with my normal dc controller connected but I might use my multimeter to double-check.

[CNE Runner]

Hmmm, it does look like a command center problem doesn't it? Jim Banner will hopefully see your post and weigh in with some advice.

Your turn Jim,
Ray

[Jim Banner]

I assume when you do your testing that you take all the other locomotives and rolling stock off your track, or better yet, set up a circle of track as a test track.  Having only one locomotive on the track is the best way of testing because it eliminates the possibility that there is a problem with some other locomotive, lighted passenger car, etc.  Having a separate test track is the best of the best way to testing because it eliminates any possible problems caused by your track.  Not much can go wrong with a simple circle.

If you have problems with a single locomotive and all the rest work, you can be certain that the problem is in that one locomotive.  But when the problem occurs with all your locomotives, and only when you test them with your E-Z Command, then you have pretty well narrowed it down to a problem with the E-Z Command (assuming, as in the first paragraph, you have eliminated everything else.)

If you have been trying to run tests with a whole lot of locomotives on the layout, it is possible you are looking at an overload situation.  Locomotives that are on the rails but not running still draw some power.  They draw more power if their lights are on.  They draw even more power if they have smoke units.  And they draw a whole lot more power if they have sound on board.  You could have other loads as well.  DCC operated turnouts draw a bit of power even in standby mode.  Lighted passenger cars draw power it the lights are on, and even with the lights off, they can be drawing power if you use a decoder to turn the lights on and off.  How about lighted buildings or street lights?  Sometimes it is convenient to just connect these things to the tracks to see how they look.  And all too human to leave them connected and forget they too are a power draw.  The list goes on.  And all these possible extraneous draws can be eliminated  if you use a separate test track.

Bottom line, if you connect your E-Z Command to a test track and all you locomotives still have problems when tested one at a time, suspect your E-Z Command.

Jim

[Eddy]

Thanks Jim. I only place on locomotive at a time on the track when I was testing it with no cars or anything else on the track, and the track is a simple oval. I'm going to get an exchange on the controller if the problem persists. The problem occurs occasionally.

[petewoff]

(OK, track is squeaky clean? Let's move on. The wheels, on your locomotive, may be dirty and need to be cleaned. There are several ways to accomplish this: some easy - some not so easy. The easiest way is to use a Kadee "Speedi Wheel Cleaner". This is an electrically charged wire brush that allows the wheels to turn as it removes any accumulated 'gunk'.) Quote

  This is a VERY BAD IDEA with DCC. The Kadee brush can cause shorts and blow the system or the decoder. When Cleaning wheels on DCC Locos the safest way is to used good old fashioned  lighter fluid on a papaer towel.  Put the fluid on the paper towel. next put the towel on the track , just run the loco across the  towel a couple of times and it will clean the wheels.

Peter

[Merrill]

At my club, we have a Lenz DCC unit, and this sort of stopping...starting thing happens. Lenz helped develop the Bachmann DCC unit.... Periodically when thei happens with the Lenz, there is a procedure to do a 'system reset' where you set the controlloer to address 0, press the F4 button 25 times (watch for the power light to blink at around 19 or 20 times), and remove the power from the unit. Turn it back on, and the problem disappears until a few people enter multi unit consists and the like and forget to delete them. I am not familiar with the bachmann unit, and this might be just and educated guess. Hope it helps...

[pdlethbridge]

Cleaning the wheels with lighter fluid, a petroleum based product, is a no no. Use isopropyl alcohol.