Varney Dockside Switcher

[jonathan]

Well... I seem to be getting several votes for the valve gear.  Yes, I will need a new crosshead, too.  The present one has no way to connect without performing major micro surgery.  Yardbird promises to have a fine working valve gear available in the Spring.  That little contraption will cost more than the added costs of the engine, motor, paint, epoxy, worn out drill bits, decals and the kite string!

[BestSnowman]

It's only money right? This locomotive has lasted 62 years, most of my money doesn't last nearly that long

[ebtnut]

If you do go for the valve gear (and I think you should), make sure and get some extra valve gear rivets.  I doubt that anyone still carries the Penn Line "Rivetool", which was specially designed for the purpose.  In the absence of the special tool, you will need a centerpunch and a small hammer, plus a great deal of patience.  If and when you get to that point, the folks here can discuss technique further. 

[jonathan]

Actually, Yardbird does carry the rivetool.  Plus, I have three centerpunches: small, smaller, and tiny.  They came in handy with track nails, many moons ago.

You know, one of these days, I have to get back to scenery...

Thanks, guys, for your great advice, technical know-how and valued opinions.  It keeps me going.  In the coming weeks, I hope to post a rebirth announcement.

Regards,

Jonathan

[jonathan]

WOW!!






Watch Out!  Wet Paint!  She's spending the next 48 hours in the guest bathroom (no guests allowed).

Regards (with a tear in my eye),

J

[Tim]

Jonathan

Are you aware that you are missing the crosshead guides?

they are the two rods that extend from the main cylinders at
top and bottom an support the crosshead and piston rod>

Tim Anders
Souderton, PA

[jonathan]

Tim,

Yes, there are no crosshead guides.  The locomotive came that way when new.  There are pre-drilled holes for crosshead guides.  The original crossheads have no loops, or stays, to slip into crosshead guides.

Part of the package for the valve gear are new crossheads and guides, along with the valve gear.  I may be upgrading these pieces this summer.  There seems to be a unanimous opinion that I need these pieces to complete this project.  All of you are invited over to my house to help me assemble these, when they arrive.  Bring tiny tools and big magnifying glasses!

For now, a question.  Do I need a second coat of paint?  The first coat turned out so well, I'm afraid to shoot the shell again.  Don't want to mess up the first coat. 

I Checked the finish after 9 hours.  There are no drips, no ant footprints, no hairs, no bubbles... nothing seems to be out of order, with the exception of that shelf thingy that sits between the stack and the boiler.  Spray would not reach into that little crevice.  I think I can spray some paint into a cup, and use a small brush to get that last area.  Only I would think to look there anyway.

Regards,

Jonathan

[CNE Runner]

Outstanding Jonathan!! It looks like the finish on some builder's photographs from the late 19th Century (and before the first firing dulled the paint). I don't know...I don't think I would chance a second coat. Your idea of spraying into a cup and then 'touching up' is a good one. Why not stop while you are ahead? At a later date you could overspray with dull clear coat; but that would only be 'window dressing' ('better first check with our forum experts on the compatibility of clear coat and the paint you used).

You deserve a lot of credit for the entire project, your excellent photography, and the willingness to include us into the process.

KUDOS,
Ray

[BestSnowman]

Looks very nice!

[jerryl]

Looks like you have a nice glossy surface to apply decals to.  Are you planning to decal the engine?   If you want to keep it prototypical it should be a B&O  #98 or #99.   You should apply a dull overcoat after decaling.
Not sure if the roof or smokebox was a different color...have to do some research.  Jerry

[jonathan]

Thanks for the kind words, guys.  It gets more exciting every time I do something to the engine.

I have ordered B&O decals that are suppose to resemble what Varney put on the engine... not necessarily the right color for the prototype (a dirty yellowish gold color).  I'm going with #98, as it appears the rest of the locos were modified in ways I don't want to play with.

From all the photos I can find, it looks like the smoke box and cab roof were the same color as the rest of the engine.  Admittedly, it can be hard to tell from old B&W photos.

A couple of the superdetailing companies do sell brass whistles, too.  #98 had a left-hand side mounted whistle on the middle dome.  Yet another hole to drill at some point.

I went for a high gloss finish for various reasons:  not the least of which was adding decals.  Then I can decide how shiny or dull I want the loco.  Right now, I'm leaning towards the shiny side.  Time will tell.

Regards,

Jonathan

[Woody Elmore]

The lettering color I believe is called Dulux Gold. Did you get around to fixing the front step?

So how much has the build cost you so far? What the heck, you'd only throw it away on food, housing or gasoline!!

Now you have to build a diorama of the Baltimore dock area so you can properly display the engine!

[ABC]

The lettering color I believe is called Dulux Gold.

I'm pretty sure that's it too.

[Woody Elmore]

Jonathan: Like they say in the Godfather: "I'm going to make you an offer that you can't refuse."

I just remembered that I was working on making a 0-4-4 On30 Forney from a kit I got on Ebay. It required the chassis from a Bowser B&O engine. I have the frame,cylinders, crosshead guides,crossheads, side rods, drivers. hex screws, - complete except (alas) I removed the front steps because I was going to add O scale ones. They're yours if you'd like them. I'm never going to finish the kit (Bachmann Forneys are a thousand times nicer!)

Let me know if you are interested. The shipping is $2,350. Just kidding - they're yours if you'd like them - free(what a concept!)

[jonathan]

Dulux Gold, that's the one.

I have not fixed the front step, yet.  I know how I'm going to do it.  Saving it for when I'm done with the shell.

Cost?  Let's see...

Varney, Little Joe                   $15 (in 1947.  perhaps $200 in today's cash?)
Mashima motor                      $30.95
Two cans of Model Master
Spray Paint (Primer & Classic
Black)                                     $10.00
Worn out drill bits                  $  5.00 to replace
B&O Decals                            $  3.00
Brass Whistle (on order)       $   2.50
Couplers                                $  1.75
Shipping                                $   3.00

Soooo that comes to $56.20 (less the loco cost).  Don't forget the valve gear.  That's going to be another $50.

It adds up.