Varney Dockside Switcher

[jonathan]

Woody,

Guess we were posting at the same time.  I sent you an email.

S,

Jonathan

[jonathan]

Jim (Banner),

If you're out there.  I tried your 'baking the shell' idea to harden the paint faster.  I meant to ask first, but I thought I'd try it out.  I went easy on it; 200 deg (F) for about 45 minutes.  Did I do any good?  It's too hot to touch at the moment.  The paint didn't run off, so I'm guessing it's okay.

Regards,

Jonathan

Addendum,  Against my instincts, I went ahead and put a second coat of paint on the shell.  I also baked that coat (200 degF) for an hour.  I let it cool, slowly, in the oven.  Looks OK.  I can tell that I will definitely have to dull the finish, after I get the decals on. 

My dullcoting usually ends up looks a little gritty, which is OK for weathering, but I need to do it better for this project.  Any help on doing a good job on dullcote?

R,

J

[ebtnut]

Ideally, you should apply the Dullcote with an airbrush.  You didn't specify if that's what you used on the basic paint job.  As it comes out of the can, the Dullcote goes on pretty thick, and can give you that "gritty" look.  I spray the Dullcote from the can into a disposable cup, cut it with some lacquer thinner or similar thinner, then pour the mix into the airbrush cup to spray.  Thinning the Dullcote gives you more control on the amount of "dull" you want.  For your purposes, I would think a "semi-gloss" finish would work - just enough so that is doesn't shine, but still has some highlights. 

[jonathan]

I have not invested in an airbrush system.  I really don't have a place to set up a booth.  I don't know when or if I will go down that road.  I know the difference is night and day when it comes to model painting.

I had to use the (Testor's?)  Model Master spray paints in a can (enamel).  My heart was in my throat the whole time I was shooting the black paint. Iwas trying every trick I read about to get the paint to lay on evenly. 

Perhaps if I use the semi-gloss dullcote (didn't know there was such a thing), I can lay it on just thick enough to prevent the grittiness.  It's going to be hard to see up against the glossly black.

Perhaps one can 'buff' the dullcote, once it's dry?

Thanks for the help, ebtnut.

S,

Jonathan

[pdlethbridge]

i JUST DULL COATED A BRASS b&m R1D and it came out smooth as silk because I painted, sprayed, fast, not pause or slowing in any one spot. Can spray painting is okay but you should move fast with the can.

[jonathan]

PD,

I hear you. I do try to move quick when shooting across the piece.  Would love to see a picture of that R1D.

R,

Jonathan

[pdlethbridge]

I'll ask my brother to send a picture, it's his engine.

[ebtnut]

Noting PD's comments, here's some more thoughts.  When spraying with either an airbrush or from a can, start the spray away from the model, then pass beyond the model before stopping.  This helps keep the paint even and avoids runs.  A lot of weathering comes from above - rain, cinders, soot, etc.  When getting ready to do the Dullcote, you might try spraying directly down at the top of the model.  Give it one pass, let it dry for a minute or two and see how it looks.  Maybe two passes from the top, and one quick one along the sides might give a nice effect. 

[jonathan]

Very well. I will practice on a piece of rolling stock that may be a bit too shiny.  Thanks again, guys.

I guess Jim didn't see my question on the last page.  Anybody else out there ever bake their finishes?

Thanks again,

Jonathan

[pdlethbridge]

I have never done it, and I don't know if any one else has.

[RAM]

You will want to put on your decals before you spray with dullcote.  By the way you can get clear dull in a bottle.  It may not be dullcote but the same results.

[ebtnut]

Yes, some folks do in fact bake their paint jobs.  One guy I know made his own paint baking oven by taking one of those big gallon-size tin cans, like Charles Chips used to come in, installing a light socket in it, and putting in a 100w bulb.  He hinged the lid so he didn't have to pull it on and off.  Put the model in, turn the light on, let bake for about 4 hours. 

[jonathan]

I booked time in my wife's oven (very early am).  I found 200 degrees to be okay.  I was just wondering if anyone had an ideal temperature.  All the online resources (artsy stuff) never really gave a good formula for baking metal that had been painted.  I suppose they want you to buy the book.

The bulb-in-a-can idea sounds like a great idea (easybake oven).

I'm still waiting on decals, in order to complete the shell.  With the recent snow storm, and mail stoppage, I probably won't be working on the Little Joe for while.  Will update this thread as soon as I can get back to the engine.  Until then, I'm fashioning a little display box and the front step.

More in the near future I hope.

Thanks, as always, for the great help all of you have been.

Regards,

Jonathan

[full maxx]

hey jonathan that engine looks really good

[Jim Banner]

Jonathan,
I did reply but I don't see my post.  Maybe I shut the browser down too quickly or maybe I just forgot to post it.  Sorry.

Two hundred degrees F works for me,  I usually bake things for about 1/2 hour if they had a chance to dry properly first (usually overnight.)  But sometimes I am in a hurry and will bake for 3/4 hour to 1 hour if the paint is only partly dry to start.

One half hour of baking hardens the paint about as much a curing for 3 months or so and greatly reduces the chance of scratching it while working on it.

Jim