Varney Dockside Switcher

[jonathan]

Thanks, Jim.

I have been trying to noodle out how to put something stiff in there, without shorting the motor.  That could get a few more miles out of the old girl.  In the end, I'm glad somebody carries a motor and spare parts.  It's only a matter of time before something else falls out of that motor.

It's worth it to me that I got her running one more time (causes pleasant flashbacks). 

R,

J

[jonathan]

OK,

I gave in and ordered the motor and stanchions for the shell grabirons.  In the meantime, I added a handrail, coupler lift bar and coupler, to the pilot.  Looking for a good piece of metal to replace the front step.





The primer is still drying, so I should get some detail back after it dries and is lightly sanded.

That 5 minute epoxy is amazing stuff.  I could swing the engine around, hanging by the  handrail.

Regards

Jonathan

[Woody Elmore]

You can easily replace that missing front step with a piece of plastic. The epoxy you are using will certainly do the trick snd no one will be able to tell if the step is metal or plastic once painted.

It seems like you are having a lot of fun. I purchased an old Mantua8 ball mogul some years back and it was a challenge to get the thing to run properly.

[jonathan]

Thanks, I can do plastic, that sounds good.

Yes, this is perhaps the most fun I've had since starting my own layout.

The finished product may not look as good as the Varney in my imagination, but the reward is in the history, family connection, and just plain old tinkering.  If it happens to run and pull the 5 Varney cars I've found in the box... well, that's just icing on the cake.

This little engine has been in the back of my mind for years.  I couldn't let it die in the attic, or the back of some shelf.  If she's gonna go, she's gonna go down running the wheels off.

ooh rah.

Jonathan

[CNE Runner]

Jonathan - I am not trying to hijack your thread; but I couldn't help but marvel at the quality of your photography (if you have seen any of my posted images you will understand my envy). What camera do you use for the shots? You obviously don't use the camera flash (too close to the subject) - what lightning method(s) do you employ?

Feel free to write a post or contact me offline.

Thanks,
Ray

[jonathan]

Not a problem, Ray.  I use my wife's Nikon Coolpix L100--a point-and-shoot camera.  It has a macro feature (extreme close up), but I usually don't use it.  My layout has 50W track lighting overhead.  I also have one of those cheap and dangerous clamp up spotlights.  Hardware stores sell 'em for less than $5 US.  The bulb in the spotlight is a 100W, new fangled, energy saving bulb, that wouldn't fit in a lamp in the house.  The camera is self focusing. HOWEVER, it will focus on the lightest object in the scene, not what's in the center.  Makes for a challenge to focus on black steam engines!  To get a sharper image, I either rest the camera on the layout, or put my elbows on the layout to steady things.  I pull a piece of paper out of the printer from time-to-time, if I don't want a background.

That's about it.  I'm no photographer, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night.

Regards,

Jonathan

[CNE Runner]

Thanks for the comeback Jonathan. I shoot with a Canon A70 (only 3.2 mps) and am looking for another camera. I think the secret to your success is the external lighting (like I really know what I am talking about).

Everyone else: Thanks for the understanding; but Jonathan's pictures are clear and well lit and now I know how he accomplished that feat.

Regards,
Ray

[jonathan]

May I just say that paint removal is my new unfavorite part of this hobby (use to be #80 drill bits).






Good thing this is a kid friendly forum.  I can think of a few choice words right now.

Oh well, I drilled some holes and back into the vat she goes.

Regards,
Jonathan

[pdlethbridge]

you have done a great job with the paint removal. How long have soaked it? What are you using? The detail is starting to show up great.

[jonathan]

Thanks, PD.

The pieces have been soaking for 6 days, in regular paint thinner from a hardware store.  I was finally able to rub the cylinders completely clean.  So they are ready for primer.  I think it will take a couple of more days for the shell (lots o' rivets and such).  Which leads to the next step...

How do I prep the metal.  Is there something called "pickling" so the metal will accept the primer?

Regards,

Jonathan

[pdlethbridge]

Some use vinegar.  Throw it out after prepping the engine.

[CNE Runner]

Jonathan - I had to strip and repaint a Lionel locomotive years ago and I believe I used automotive (not aircraft - which is vegetable based) brake fluid. I don't remember having the trouble removing the paint as you seem to be experiencing (or is it simply a suppressed memory?). As pdlethbridge mentions; I used vinegar to 'pickle' the surface. You might want to procure a small can of brake fluid and try it on one of the engine parts.

I have a feeling that this engine restoration/improvement project will lead to others. We see numerous 'abandoned souls' in boxes under tables that can be had for almost nothing.

Ray

[jonathan]

Yeah, I was hoping to get by without having to buy yet another chemical.  If I ever do this again, I will have to try the brake fluid.  Of course, the results of this project will determine how motivated I feel about doing it again.  This is loads of fun (except for the paint stripping part). 

Regards,

Jonathan

[pdlethbridge]

your wife will never miss a little vinegar. just don't return it to the bottle

[mabloodhound]

If all the parts on the shell are metal, I would be using lacquer thinner to get the paint off.   DO NOT use lacquer thinner on plastic as it will melt it.   You wont have to soak it long either.