Varney Dockside Switcher

[ebtnut]

There was no magic about what brass engines might be good runners, though there was some degree of track record.  In general, most PFM United models ran pretty well to very well.  I once had a Ma & Pa modern
2-8-0 that ran great right out of the box.  Thenshodo models tended to run OK, but were noisy. Gem models generally looked good, but were a real crap-shoot as to whether they would run or not.  Akane models generally ran well, but tended to lack some in details.  Alco models, especially diesels, were notoriously poor runners.  NWSL were generally decent to good runners.  Westside & Key - generally decent.  Balboa - not quite up to par in many cases. 

As far as the old metal kits, the early Penn Line models were generally the better of the lot.  The original Mantuas with the gearbox weren't bad.  Same with the old Varneys, especially the "super" model kits.  Roundhouse, not too bad.  Old original Bowsers, many took some tweaking during assembly. 

[Doneldon]

Woody -

You are so right.  I think of brass locos, at least the earlier ones, as British sport cars with Lucas electrics.  They look super and really grab attention but they do enjoy time in the shop.  That hasn't stopped me from buying brass steamers -- they are sooooo pretty and sometimes the only way to get a specific prototype -- or cars either, I guess.  I have an old 12 cylinder Jaguar E-type roadster that is truly beautiful but I wouldn't want to count on it to get me to a critical job interview or the hospital or anything like that.  It's to enjoy when time isn't an issue.  With the trains it's different; I do expect them to run when I tell them to.  Mostly they do what I ask.
                                                                                              -- D

[J3a-614]

Old joke from a car enthusiast:

Q: Why do the British like warm beer?

A: Because they have Lucas refrigerators.

Jag story: An essential piece of aftermarket equipment that should be in every Jaguar is a large rock.  You use the rock to pound on the electric fuel pump in case the car will not start.

I'm afraid I've never been quite rich enough to own either Jaguars or brass engines, but might Woody, Donaldon, or EBT have some advice on purchasing and working with such exotic locomotives?  About all I can say is to ask for John Glaab at Peach Creek Shops in Laurel, Md.!

[Woody Elmore]

There was no secret to working on brass engines. Often they had inferior motors. One friend used to disassemble the gearbox and use jeweller's rouge to lap the gears. Sometimes the driver springs were too stiff

I spent hours on my PFM mike - my first brass engine. I finally found that the motor had a bit too much play so the thing ran better in reverse. I added a washer to the armature and that solved the problem.

As for Jaguars, a friend had an XKE - 12 cylinders. I forgot how many carbs it had but I recall that it took 13 quarts of oil. The car was in great shape because it was always in the garage being fixed. Lucas gauges were notoriously bad but they were in horrible cars. Of all the British independent car makers, I think Vauxhall is the only one left.

The Jag, by the way, was a rocket but so was the Austin Healey 104 that my friend had before the Jag. British cars all needed one crucial gauge - a temperature gauge, because they were notorious overheaters.

Where I live is home to a Rover dealer. I see lots of Range Rovers and I wonder just how much improved they are. I think the owners should have their heads examined.

[ebtnut]

Probably the biggest improvement in brass engines is when they went to can motors.  The old open frame motors were power hogs and generally did not run smoothly, especially at low speeds when armature cogging tended to set in.  Quality in general got better in the '90's and '00's.  I have two Hallmark On3 EBT Mikes that look great and ran better right out of the box.  They were built by Samhongsa in Korea. 

[Woody Elmore]

Some of the early stuff from Korea, like Empire Midland and Hallmark, were real dogs. I had an EM SRy mountain. Every time I ran the engine something fell off.

I also had a brass USRA switcher - I think it was done by Alco. The thing had a frame that wasn't square. I took it apart, built a jig and reassembled the frame with a torch. I used different springs with the drivers and put in a can motor. It became an excellent running engine. Taking a brass engine down to the frame is not for the faint hearted. It was a learning experience. Of Course those were the days before plastic engines.

[Doneldon]

J3a -

Do you know why the Brits never had a space program?  It's because Lucas got the ignition contract.  Actually, I shouldn't complain.  Mine always starts, but then the Lucas stuff was replaced by a high discharge electronic ignition and I put in 12 platinum plugs.  And Woody, it has four two-barrel strombergs. 

These things aren't all that expensive and they hold their value better than a new car.  My E-type (aka XKE) is worth nearly twice what I paid for it.  You can't say that about our Toyota or Hyundai.

                                                                       -- D

[jonathan]

Well, I've enjoyed our little diversion.  My MX-5 is a little embarrassed, though.

I ordered the Neolube today.  Need a tip.  I applied tiny drops of conductalube to the joints of the mechanism while breaking it in.  I believe the metal parts need to be oil free to get the neolube to stick.

Can I use rubbing alcohol and a Q-tip to release the oil?  I don't want to disassemble everything to wash it.  I hate to risk stripping threads now that everything is running well.

Side note.  I notice PD's posts now say "Guest" under his name.  You haven't left us, have you, PD? (hope not)

Regards,

Jonathan

[Doneldon]

jonathan -

Alcohol should remove the oil.  You might want to go over it twice just to be sure.  Why not run a test?  Get a piece of metal (brass, nickel, nickel silver, copper, but probably nickel silver), put some Conductalube on it, wipe it in and off, use the alcohol and then apply the neolube.  The test will save you from starting the neolube application only to have a mess to clean up.
                                                                                           -- D

[jonathan]

Brilliant!

Sometimes, a nudge into common sense gets me on track again.

Many thanks, -- D.  Will run a test as you suggest.

Regards,

Jonathan

[Woody Elmore]

to Jon: try using Jack Daniels instead of plain alcohol. That way, if it doesn't work on the rods, you can put the JD to another use.

To D: Glad your XKE starts all the time. British cars are like boats: the best two days are when you get the car and the day you sell the car!

[Doneldon]

Woody -

I see you know your British cars.  And believe me, I know how lucky I am that the Jag starts all of the time.  Few do.  My brother, who claims no envy vis-a-vis the Jag, tells me every time the car comes up in conversation about his fraternity brother's E-type which wouldn't start below 60^o even when it was brand new.  Mine starts at least in the 10^os.  I've never tried it below that.
                                                                                                     -- D

[ebtnut]

FWIW, my '93 Miata, which is about to turn 250K, has been remarkably reliable in the 9 years I've owned it.  I've had to put one cluth in it, and it uses about a quart of oil every 500 miles or so, but it is still a fun toy.  A little body cancer has begun, but it'll probably go for another 30K or so. 

[jonathan]

I had a '92 Miata.  When I got married, I had to get rid of it for a more practical vehicle.  Besides, it's a chick magnet.   How do you think I was able to get her to notice me? 

Now that I'm older (and thicker) and retired from my first career, I was given permission to get an '06 (red with all the bangs and whistles).  Makes a great commuter car for my second career.

J

[Kris Everett]

im number 3000 yay