Varney Dockside Switcher

[ebtnut]

Um-m-m-m, Johnathon - did you test run the loco AFTER the Loctite?  That stuff has a way of migrating to places you didn't want it.  It could freeze up some of those recently-limbered joints. 

[jonathan]

No worries.

I applied the loctite (with a straight pin), and then ran the mechanism.  All is still limber.

Thanks for checking me, though.

Regards,

Jonathan

[jonathan]

I'm going to put this loco away for a few weeks, while I look for the last few detail parts I need, like a 5.5mm (7/32") headlight lens, among other things.

Before I park her in the garage (literally), here I am out for a spin around the block.



Whatcha think, PD, should I go for some neolube while I'm at at?  

Regards,

Jonathan

P.S.

Just kidding.  I don't have my license.... this guy drove:

[ebtnut]

Great job, Jonathon!  Yes, I'd vote for a touch of Neolube to give the rods a more even finish. 

[pdlethbridge]

lookin' good , go with the neolube, it will look more like a real loco.

[J3a-614]

You're making me want to model Pratt Street, with lots of ancient buildings, ships, docks, street trackage, trolleys--would make a great switching layout with two to four Docksides and a slew of freight cars.  At the same time, I look at the close clearance of that crosshead link to the surface of your turnable (or a street surface)--wow!

A similar prototype situation at speed on a railroad in New Zealand (3'6" gauge):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7BStS7EUomc

Remember the comments about the NYC box in the night photo (relinked below)?

http://www.trains.com/ctr/objects/images/0-4-0_3.jpg

Now look what's coming out:

http://www.broadway-limited.com/nycsteelboxcars.aspx

Wonder how many they will sell?

She looks good, and I hope you get to work on some more engines!

To bad Bowser is out of the game!

[jonathan]

We went through this voting stuff on the valve gear, too.  I have a feeling most folks are gonna lean towards the neolube as well.  Left shiny, it looks pretty good going down the track, but I'm sure I'll grow tired of the polished brass, or whatever it is.  

Perhaps someone out there would like to share a photo of a steamer that has an application of neolube... something done by a regular modeler, not the company's photo.  I've spent more than a few dollars already on chemicals, some work well, some not so well.  Pics please?

Actually, I'd love to get the rods an iron gray color like on my Kanawha (Berk).  That's the most attractive shade I've seen so far on any model steamer.  The Connies have a nice shade, too, just a bit dark.

--------

J3,  I had no idea how low the crosshead link was until I parked it on the turntable.  It clears the table, as long as you hold your breath and think light thoughts.  Fortunately I don't do street running, so I don't have to sweat until I have to turn her around.

If I ever build another engine, it will have to be pretty darn special to motivate me.  I've done three.  I've discovered, for me, no matter how hard I try, the project never turns out like I imagined it, aaaaand, it's never going to look or run as well as a factory built model.  I am proud of my heavy metal babies, though.  There's a special feeling when you turn up the throttle on your homemade locomotives and the lights come on and the wheels actually turn.  Cool.

Saw the NYC box cars.  Wouldn't it be great to model the little scene in that famous photo?  Wouldn't take much space on any layout.  Wouldn't even recognize the scene until you rolled in the main players.  Hmmm, just put that nugget in my head.

Oh, Bowser's not completely out of the kit game. I was pleasantly surprised to find out about 90% of all the parts they ever made, are still carried in their warehouse.  Nobody that works there know anything about the parts, so don't call (trust me), but if you can figure out their on line shopping system,  chances are the part can still be had.  For instance, the dockside valve gear kit is not listed, but all the individual parts are still available... for a substantially higher price mind you.  But it's just business.

Regards,

Jonathan

[Woody Elmore]

Jon: I wouldn't be surprised if somebody else buys up the Bowser parts inventory. I'm sure that Bowser would probably sell the tooling.

Compare your latest Dockside pix with those you took of the original engine - quite a difference! You've worked wonders on all three engines and you can say that you have three one of a kind engines.

Park the Dockside and refocus your eyes!

[Doneldon]

jon -

Your Doxie looks better with each new photo.  You must have a staggering amount of time in it.  I think the only improvement left to make is the neolube.  Do remember that it's conductive.  BTW, does your loco rear up a little or is that an artifact of the photo?
                                                                                                     -- D

[jonathan]

loco looks level in person.  Don't know much about camera angles, though. I just lean my pinkies or elbows on the layout to hold it steady.   

Regards,

Jonathan

[J3a-614]

Cameras can be unforgiving eyes, revealing things like the rear end of a Dockside that sags because the spring rigging has gotten "ornery" and needs resetting.  That's how Alfred Bruce, who was Alco's chief locomotive designer in steam days, described this condition in his classic book, "The Steam Locomotive in America".

A look at other photos reveals that John Allen (of Gorre & Daphetid fame) cheated a little on his Dockside; his engine had eccentric crank, rods, and reverse link, but nothing else!  Don't know if he had issues with the close ground clearance, or if the valve gear kit wasn't available, but essentially everything forward of what looked like a homemade valve gear hanger and reverse link was missing.

I see your avatar features a B&O GE 44-tonner.  You might be interested to know that a couple of such engines were the replacements for the Docksides.

Your comment about having trouble getting your metal engines to run well, and that they don't quite run as well as factory jobs, is a reflection of how far the factory jobs have come with the introduction of Bachmann's 2-8-0.  I can well remember when the only way to get a steam model to run its best was to either build a kit and tune it up as you have done, or to take a (cough) "ready-to-run" engine apart to tune it so it really did run better.  This applied even to pricey brass engines.  Of course, in doing so you usually wanted to repaint the thing, as paint finishes weren't very good either back then; in fact, most were pretty awful.  Might as well start with a kit and tune it and paint it without the disassembly and strip jobs, and take the time to detail it, too.  And by the way, if your Mikado's video is any indication, I'd say you've done a very good job of tuning.  Wonder if we'll get to see a Dockside in action. . .

All this changed after Bachmann's 2-8-0 came out, how long ago now? . . .downside of modern paint and lettering is that Champ decals is about out of business. . .I still need decals for a couple  hundred hopper cars. . .wonder if there is an alternative. . .

Glad you love your metal engines, and I'm especially glad you have your grand-dad's Dockside among them.  That makes the engine very special, indeed.

[pdlethbridge]

I would say that if you are unsure of the neolube results, try some on a cars trucks to see if you like it. I ordered mine but have been unable to get to east rochester to pick it up.

[Doneldon]

Jonathan -

There's a B&O Docksider on ebay right now.  Its crosshead just about hits the ground, too.

http://cgi.ebay.com/HO-scale-GEM-Brass-B-O-0-4-0-DOCKSIDE-DOCKSIDER-/280524099692?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Model_RR_Trains&hash=item41508a106c

                                                                           -- D

[Woody Elmore]

The owner wants $200 - notice that the engineer's side crosshead guide is not where it should be. If I remember my Gem engines, they often sounded like coffee grinders. The detail is nice but in three or four more years Jon will have his dockside detailed to perfection.

I owned a good number of brass HO locomotives and many of them required a lot of work to get them to run properly. I had a PFM USRA mikado that ran better in reverse than forward. After a complete disassembly to paint the engine I added a washer into the drive train and fixed the problem. People do not realize that a lot of the older brass imports - notably Alco diesels, later Westside models and Empire Midland all needed a great deal of tinkering. THe first models from Korea often came apart due to cold solder joints and poor fit. Bachmann steamers are like cadillacs compared to some of the brass imports.

[jonathan]

Glad you brought it up.

I often look at the brass offerings on ebay and other importers.  I have often drooled over the wonderful detail. At first glance, I wanted to bid on some of these little steamers right away. Have you seen the one with a tender for $375? It's always there... looking at me.

At second glance, I see a lot of open frame motors and plastic main gears.  I also see no light bulbs. Well, I never shied away from age. They would require some work.

The other thing that makes me nervous... these babies have sat around for years unpainted.  I wonder how hard it would be to get the brass clean enough to paint? If you could get it clean, would I trust myself to paint something I just spent a good chunk of change on?  I threw caution to the wind on the Varney.  There are some paint errors, but it still looks pretty in person (the camera can focus in closer than I can).  I've spent a total of $110 on my engine so far.  How much would I have to spend to get one of the brass engines in operational condition?

Still, the detail is wonderful.  Don't know if I'll get brave enough to tackle an unpainted brass import.

Just read somewhere that Zamack type metals can disintegrate over time.  Now that would cause a grown man to cry like a baby.

Regards,

Jonathan