MORE STUPID QUESTIONS!!!!

[The Great Destroyer]

Hey again,
I know the questions just keep coming.I've got some basic electrical q's.
I know there is AC/DC/DCC and I'm not sure what else.Right now I'm running a standard transformer from a Yard Boss set.I'm not sure if it DC/or DCC.I'm wanting to run my #608 4-8-4 j I'm pretty sure this is DCC I also have switches,and soon lighted cars and houses.I have an old Tyco AC/DC transformer I could use but I'm sure I'd fry my train.This is something I do not want to do since I put so much time and effort into getting one for under $50.00(new)Can anyone please help me out?I'm sorry for so many questions.I would just rather ask people that know what they are doing instead of trial and error.(That only works on non-motorized modeling)Thanks in advance to all the great people that have been answering all my annoying questions!
                                                    Respectfully,Destroyer

[nscaler711]

no such thing as a stupid question also ur new to the hobby so its ok to ask questions that we may think as easy or silly questions! DCC is Digtal Command Control its where there are lil' computer chips that basically controls a locomotives functions...ex. lights, sound, and movement of the loco.
on your tyco transformer check the voltage if its labeled on it most loco's cant handle more than 12 Volts if its from an HO scale set it should be 12 volts but u'll have to check.
the lighted cars will work on DC/DCC
switches are on AC power (bachmann E-Z track only, i dont know about the others) same goes for lighted houses
well i hope this helps you

[The Great Destroyer]

Hey,
Thanks,so it is all pretty simple.I had no idea what DCC was.So I can run the train on any DCC or DC voltage as long as it don't excede 12 volts.I have 2 AC spots on my yard boss transformer so know I know what to do with that.Thanks again!
                                                Destroyer

[Franz T]

All twin-coil type switch motors run on AC. Keep in mind, however, that most train-set power packs lack the output to power both a locomotive and a switch at the same time. If you connect your switch macines to the AC terminals you will notice that the locomotive slows down as you throw a switch.
If you are planning a layout of any size, there are two solutions: Buy a seperate powerpack for accessories (or rather, buy a quality powerpack such as a MRC for the trains and use the trainset powerpack for accessories); or you can do what I did and get a 16 Volt AC dorr chime transformer from the Lowes of your choice and use that to power the accessories This requires basic electrical skills. A transformer should run you about 10 bucks, figure $1 for a handybox and cover, 50cents for a romex connector, about 4-5 bucks for a pigtail (2 wire will do) and you are looking at less than 20bucks.  a decent MRC powerpack should run you around 50.

Franz T

[The Great Destroyer]

Hey,
Yeah,I read in another post that it will slow it down or can't run both.Electrical wise I'm a meat head.I always burn something up or catch a fire.Bad thing is I know the differance between power and ground and hot and cold wires.I think it is a curse.Anyway I was thinking on using my bachmann for the lights ect and my vintage Tyco for the train.At least untill I get something better.I have all the know how to build most scenary so I think I'm good there.I think I was going to do 2 layouts.I wanted to build an N scale custom Transformers train for the fun pretty small about 2'x3' and I was going to do a large layout with 3 seperate trains maybe 2 to start with.I was thinking about a 8'x12' Thanks for all the help for the new guy.I'm always open to tips.
                                                                     Destroyer

[GlennW]

You may find the Bachmann is better for the train & the old Tyco better for the lights. Depends on what type they are. Old train trottles used a manual control for the throttle. Newer ones at least use transistors. The best have a quick response to shut down power from a short or derailment.  In the meantime, you could get a power strip from the hardware store to go on between the wall outlet & your throttles. One switch should shut the whole thing down. You don't want any sneak power getting past old throttles.

MRC makes the best DC throttles & will last for years. Since you are new to the hobby, someday you may convert to DCC. There ought to be a good system that will let you start small & expand as the years go by. I expect the difference between DC & DCC units to get better. Athearn's Challenger may mark the begining of the future.

[sully14]

Destroyer - One thing about the new J Class, it is DCC ready, not equiped. Has a circuit board installed, but needs the chip to make it DCC compatible. Once it is set up to operate with DCC, it will not work on basic set ups. Someone correct me if I am wrong, as I am new to the game myself. Sully

[nscaler711]

My Bachmann controler (the one that came in a set with a E60P) Has a AC connection and an DC (to track) connection and on my AC connection i have about three switches connected to (bachmann E-Z Track Switches have lil' boxes that you can hook together with one AC wire leading ino one of them and yet u can power all three switches) the AC side and i can throw two swithes at the same time while my train is running and my trains will not slow down or even stop

[The Great Destroyer]

That is almost the same thing my yard boss TF has but it only has 2 instead of 3.I think I'm going to try it out tonight

My Bachmann controler (the one that came in a set with a E60P) Has a AC connection and an DC (to track) connection and on my AC connection i have about three switches connected to (bachmann E-Z Track Switches have lil' boxes that you can hook together with one AC wire leading ino one of them and yet u can power all three switches) the AC side and i can throw two swithes at the same time while my train is running and my trains will not slow down or even stop